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colourclassic

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Posts posted by colourclassic

    Burning $1000 - Brakes or Diff?

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted · Edited by colourclassic

    tbh I don't drive so hard to lift wheels on the street.

    my mates s15 had the helical/torsen diff and for all its disadvantages, it was superior to a viscous LSD in all circumstances. another mate has a 34 with a kaaz 2 way and it was hell to drive on the street, only good for track. i guess a lightly preloaded 1.5 way would be a compromise between the two.

    Burning $1000 - Brakes or Diff?

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    5 hours ago, hardsteppa said:

    With a torsen, don't they only lock while both wheels are on the ground? So any inside wheel lift will mean no lsd? Fk that for a street car.

    Yes, but with both wheels on the ground they offer good positive differential action without any of the clunkiness of a mechanical diff. On the street the only time the wheels would come off the ground is entering steep driveways, which the car is too low for anyway. 

    Burning $1000 - Brakes or Diff?

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted · Edited by colourclassic

    Burning $1000 - Brakes or Diff?

    As title states, I have roughly $1000 to spend on my r33 gtst.

    It's currently my daily which I've tracked a few times. Has 300kw and dialed in suspension; brakes and diff are pretty much the only things still stock.

    Option A - Nismo GT Pro 1.5 Way LSD.

    Good for track and will stop the singling, but possibly shit for a daily driven car.

    Option B - S15 Torsen Diff and half shafts.

    Good street diff but requires use of weaker 6 bolt half shafts. 

    Option C - 350z Brake upgrade.

    350z front calipers/rotors and upgraded rear rotors and pads. But enough of an improvement over stock?

    Any of the above options should cost around the 1k mark (s15 diff may cost less), give or take.

    Which of the above would be the most worthwhile/best bang for buck?

    Open to opinions/suggestions.

     

    • Like 1

    R33 GTST Series II Suspension Options Stock Upgrades

    in Suspension, braking and tyres

    Posted · Edited by colourclassic

    9 hours ago, Coullsy said:

    I would start with your suspension to be honest, a well handling car and be as much fun (if not more) than one with twice the power that handles like crap.


    Trust me, a shit handling car with twice the power is where the fun is :1310_thumbsup_tone1:

    Kind of like the first gen Kawasaki ZX10R's which were ludicrously over-powered, short wheelbase and extremely light, with no ABS or TCS. Kill you if you blink kind of bikes. If you wanted something that handled well you bought a Fireblade.

    Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

    in Suspension, braking and tyres

    Posted

    On 10/14/2016 at 10:22 PM, naga said:

    Just got some new wheels for my car. TE37SL

    18x8.5 +30 235 tyres

    18x9.5 +40 265 tyres

    Fronts are scrubbing if i corner hard and it's bumpy. Don't really wanna remove my guard liners. Might try roll guards.

    18x8.5 +30 is a pretty conservative offset (conservative compared to what some people put on anyway). Before you roll guards try having a look at where it rubs on the liner and use a heat gun to heat and mould the area to clear. I have 18x9 +27 and unrolled guards and it doesn't really scrub once doing the above.

    Who still daily's their Skyline?

    in General Automotive Discussion

    Posted

    Who still daily's their Skyline?

    Who here uses their R31/32/33/34 as their sole form of transport?

    With the price and (lack) of availability going through the roof, as well as theft concerns; is anyone still using their car on a daily basis for work/shopping/chores etc.

    Up until now I've had two cars - a Vitara runabout and the Skyline as a toy, but with a new job and private car park where I can keep an eye on the car, I might consider only having 1 car from now on. 

    So what do you drive and is it a workhorse or a weekender only.

     

     

    Anyone seen this before? Damaged intake pipe/turbo

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted · Edited by colourclassic

    How tight do you typically do up your hose clamps?

    I tighten all intake plumbing using a socket driver rather than a ratchet, this gives more feel and less chance of over-tightening. Comparing your 1st and 2nd photos, the worm drive of the hose clamp is in roughly the same spot as the bend in the intake pipe. That is usually where the most pressure is too. It's possible it sealed until a few heat cycles and then let go, leading to an air leak.

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