Jump to content
SAU Community

colourclassic

Members
  • Posts

    1,119
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2
  • Feedback

    100%

Posts posted by colourclassic

  1. Can't seem to find any useful info on the topic...

    Is it feasible to put a mechanical diff from an r33 gtr into a r33 gts-t?

    The few aftermarket diff-equipped cars I've been in clunk and rattle quite a bit during regular daily usage (Kaaz, Cusco).

    I imagine Nissan engineered the rear mechanical clutch-pack LSD of the GT-R to be practical for daily use (read not clunky) but also offer proper LSD action unlike the old viscous units of a Gts-t. The car is driven on the road 90% of the time so clunks and rattles aren't really acceptable.

    Can i just throw one in or is it an ordeal? What's required?

    • Like 1
  2. 2004 Suzuki GSXR600 K4

    Bike is extremely clean and only has 14,000km.

    Servicing has always been performed at prescribed intervals including oil and filter changes.

    Only modification is a tail tidy, everything else is original.

    12 Months registration has just been paid.

    RWC is not provided and as such price is negotiable. Shouldn't need anything as far as I can see.

    This bike has not been on a track, and has no written off or stolen history.

    Prefer cash sale but may swap for an R32, S13, S14 or 180SX.

    $5,300

    Located inner suburbs Melbourne - 0411 582 453

    post-111848-0-84915100-1436837865_thumb.jpg

    post-111848-0-20486400-1436837877_thumb.jpg

    post-111848-0-15540400-1436837879_thumb.jpg

    post-111848-0-42262500-1436837880_thumb.jpg

  3. Have 2 fuel pumps for sale, both OEM Nissan.

    1x R34 GT-R Fuel pump with sock and bracket. Drops straight into R33 Gts-t or R34 GT-T - $110

    1x R33 GT-R Fuel pump - $70

    Both work perfectly and off low km cars.

    Good upgrade for supporting more power, or if your OEM pump has burned out and you just want a no-fuss replacement.

    Melbourne. Happy to post. 0411 582 453

    post-111848-0-74894900-1435838224_thumb.jpg

  4. Emailed Stao after getting and fitting the turbo and never got a reply. I also think its best to get some real world information before approaching a tuner, hence asking for all your opinions.

    And on that, do we think that Power FC is the best/ a good approach for tuning an R33 to be a reliable street car (with all the various needs and functions of a street car; cold start etc etc) or are there other popular brands/models to consider?

    I have the same setup you mentioned in your first post being controlled by a PFC. Car runs like factory, including cold star and air-con. Unless you want the ability to switch between ethanol and pulp simultaneously, the old Apexi units are good affordable options.

    • Like 1
  5. Anyone good with basic legal advice, mainly concerning defamation?

    I took my car to a local tyre place to have my guards rolled, and it was subsequently damaged after they used a trolley jack to lift it without any sort of adapter or rubber pad.

    Now I don't want to put them out of business or slander them, but I do feel its necessary for others to know what happened, especially after I they refused fixing it, or any sort of reimbursement.

    Can/should you name businesses online and post what happened, or can it land you in trouble?

  6. I've dealt with the place before, and they have a pretty good reputation with these sorts of cars, so I'm not sure why this particular dude decided just to slam a jack under it without any thought of using a rubber pad/adapter.

    Going in to discuss the repair bill with the manager tomorrow.

  7. Took my car to a pretty well known tyre place here in Melbourne to get my guards rolled.

    I went to grab some breakfast and when I got back he had just started jacking up the drivers side of the car with a trolley jack, and as the car started going up, I noticed it also started moving down slowly in relation to the jack. I told him straight away to drop the car as I knew what had happened.

    He didn't use an adapter for the jacking point and as such crushed the RH sill seam/jacking point and left a pretty big dent. Luckily I came back in time and he didn't crush both sides. f**king lost my shit.

    So is this repairable? It shouldn't be too hard to straighten the seam, but the jacking point and surrounding panels are pushed upwards, and I'm worried it will be too hard to pull them back down and into shape, even by an expert panel beater. The car was perfect before and I want it to be fixed properly.

    2uhqwqq.jpg

×
×
  • Create New...