nedb

Wow, these are pretty cheap. AUS $260 + delivery. What is the performance gain with one of them? Has anyone tested one on the dyno? Any extra lag?

yeah just use that T piece and connect it to any of the vacuum hoses. probably the easiest one is the one going to the carbon canister.

easy fix, just T it of one of the little vacum hoses around and connect to that. you can use the carbon cannister one. don't drill the piping.

Hi guys, my mate from work wants to import a 6X model VW from South Africa. The car has been in his name for about 10 years. Does anyone have any information how hard would this be and what is needed coz of current laws or can anyone point me in the right direction where I can find this info. Also, would he be better off fixing up & modifying the car there or bring it here first and do it up, from the compliancing & customs point of view? From his point of view, it would be much cheaper to do it there coz of parts availability and the labour rates. Any info would be appreciated. Thanx.

do a search, all this has been covered a numerous of times. i posted a basic DIY guide for fitting the turbo. check it out it might help ya. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=52317 You should be able to start the car fine with the base map and take it to the dyno for tuning.

I've been there a few times with my 4 door R32, but i wont be making it this sun. I kissed a rear end of some stupid 4x4 on fri nite cruisin. Not even a scratch on him. Not happy.

Got them from nissan spare parts store. $5 each. They had them in stock.

WazR32GTSt - yeah 13 is very lean. Thats why i've been very careful with the right foot. I've just finished sorting out the fuel system and i'm going back to check the A/F ratios. I'm not sure about what torgue it was making. The runs were done on 9 psi.

WazR32GTSt - the timing on the Automatic RB20 should be 20 degres. I got that from the R32 engine manual. My automatic R32 made 137 rwkw with slight missfire and A/F ratio of 13. The only mods are pod filter, 3" exhaust and R33 turbo and it hasn't been tuned.

these guys do the flush with a mashine. basicaly the machine keeps adding the new fluid and sucking out the old untill it comes out 100% clean. in some cases they go thru 18 liters of fluid

Yeah the guy at the workshop said the box was the same as the Patrol one.

Update on the fluid change. Finally I found a guy who had the machine to get all the fluid out of the trans. The problem is, if you use the machine you cant get the filter, gasket & the pan cleaned. So on his recommendation I got this done first, and he put in some Castrol oil. After a few weeks I’ll go back and get the system flushed and put the RedLine Hi Temp fluid. My pan had a shitload of some goldish sparkling stuff on the bottom of it and a 5cm piece of the dip stick – what the ****.

hey guys, i just changed my trans fluid. there was heaps of gold sparkling crap on the bottom of the pan together with a 5 cm piece of dipstick. must of been done by the previous owner coz the current dip stick is in one piece. not happy.

When i think about it i have a slight problem with the indicator switch as well. Not sure if it's the same thing as NRB's but sometimes i have issues with it staying on as you almost have to force it to indicate.

skylinegeoff - what makes you think that the HICAS sensor on the steering column was aligned incorrectly in NRB's case? My steering sensor is aligned 2 -7 o'clock possition and from my understanding, that is the correct setup on R32? Am i right?

It might be worth to mention, I have the stock steering wheel.

Ok, as I stated above a have a problem with HICAS and it’s very similar as NRB’s. But there are a few very conflicting things about this problem. 1. Sometimes my car starts pulling to the left and I have to turn my steering wheel to the right to keep going straight. This happens as I go over 60 km/h and faster I go steering needs to be turned more to keep it straight – up to 10 o’clock. 2. Sometimes my car starts pulling to the right and I have to turn my steering wheel to the left to keep it straight. As above, it starts happening after I go above 60 and faster I go steering wheel needs to be turned more to correct it – up to 2 o’clock. 3. Sometimes my car just drives normal. In all three cases the HICAS light will turn ON after approx 10 km. For the first two points, after the HICAS light turns on, the steering would start gradually correcting itself and after about 1 km it would be completely corrected and drive “normal”. So far I haven’t been able to find what is causing the problem and I was never able to get into the HICAS diagnostics. In cases where I NEED to make sure the car won’t start pulling to the side, for example when the car is on the dyno, I just unplug the HICAS computer. Then it works fine, but it does make the steering wheel a bit heavy. The car is R32. Any ideas? NRB – does this sound like the problem you’re having? skylinegeoff – “Look for the tie rod ends being unequal and maybe different steering lock on each side as this is not correct. If all is equal then the steering shaft has been turned.” - I think this wouldn’t be the cause as it’s inconsistent (pulling to the left, pulling to the right or just normal). Am I right?

RedLineGTR - They come in 4 ltr cannisters so I bought 3 just in case I need 9 litres. I'd hate it if i started the job and wouldn't have enought. I guess better be safe than sorry. If i don't open the last one i can always return it back to the shop.

Workshops have a pump they use to pump it out of the torque converter. I have 12 liters of Redline Hi temp in the boot of the car, and i'm looking for a workshop that has that pump, but no luck so far. One would think that all automatic gearbox specialist should have one. The ones i spoke to so far use the same methods Abo Bob used. If anyone knows of anyone in Syd west, please let me know.

CEF11E - thanx. I heard of Toshi, i'll contact him once i get the problems sorted out. WazR32GTSt - There are no other problems that i'm aware of. 137 rwkw was on 9 psi boost with no tuning after the mods. I did have the boost leak but sorted it out with new gaskets. Thanx guys.

Well I went to the dyno. Car made 137.3 rwkw on stock boost with 13 A/F ratio and slight misfire. I think the old pump is to blame for the lean mixture and a faulty coil for the misfire as i changed the plugs not so long ago.

Hi, just a quick question. Would i benefit with the ECU remap. The car is R32. The current mods are: 3" turbo back exhaust, Apexi air filter and RB25 turbo. I'm goin to the dyno today to check the power and A/F ratios. Also, what would be the next step for power increase apart from the intercooler? Thanx guys.

So would that mean there would be no major side effects with using the Racing ATF apart from being less smooth on gear changes?

Coolant is fine and full. 33% mixture mixed with distilled water and bled.

I just did a coolant flush, so got rid of the coolant from the block too, and all of the sudden I’m having problems with my climate control. It has a mind of its own. It doesn’t matter of what is selected on the digital display (18 or 32 C) it would switch between very hot or cold on its own. I also tried the FH and FC options but it doesn’t change anything. For example, it would start blowing hot on lets say 22 C and I would keep decreasing the temp to 18 but the air temperature wouldn’t change. I would then select FC and still the same and vice versa for when it starts blowing cold. This is using manaul options without A/C on, on a warm car. I ran the diagnostics but all came back OK. Any ideas???