Lakes101
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Posts posted by Lakes101
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Becoming an expensive exercise for something that needs to be tuned out effectively. I see you have a turbosmart plumb back? Would be easier to just get one of there softer springs. Stick is 14 psi I'm sure so opt for a 7-9 psi Spring
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http://www.forcedinductionsonline.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=852. The Mazda ones are the same as Nissan ones mate. Guess advertised as Mazda MPs because it's a more common car
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Yeah mate it is from eBay Nissan bov adapter I'll post a few links
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Hey Dale think it green and pink mate 14 psi.... I've had mine for a while a few pigeons but no real dramas
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Hey Dale think it green and pink mate 14 psi.... I've had mine for a while a few pigeons but no real dramas
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like this one
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Yeah that is defiantly the wrong adapter plat you just need one where all the blots holes are in a strait line. Best look at your bov and where the bolt holes are and do some research into a suitable adapter
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Hey all
I am selling my factory m35 turbo and intake if anyone is interested. It's still in good condition for its age showing some signs of wear but been running on mine fine since I got the car. Would be great for a highflow allowing you to still drive your car while this one is sent of for the job.
Looking for $550 for turbo
$100 for intake
$30 for hard oil feed line with 3mm banjo.
Or $600 for the lot!
Located Sydney Redfern.
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I have one if you need mate
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Any auto parts store will sell electric push pull fans mate! Just need to get the same size and wire it up.
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This is true but a lot of work to cover an issue that the stock bov or turbosmart plumb back will sort out! I have the kompact one on mine with no issues at all
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Remove the thermostat and it will drain the block or the lower coolant hard pipe to the turbo from the block
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They are vent to atmo though
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your best bet to get it fixed without getting charged heaps on diagnostics it to performed the procedure to read the cel code off of your dash the sequence is in the link I posted for reference. As for a mechanic most should me able to fix the issues once diagnosed so perform that diagnostics first. I usually address all mechanical issues myself so can't really recommend one of the top of my head.Thanks Nathan, No I haven't taken it to a mechanic yet, anyone in sydney that you recommend? Thanks
Here it is!
Ensure accelerator pedal is fully released
Switch ignition ON. DO NOT start engine
Wait 3 seconds(A/T light will go out to to signify this)
Within 5 seconds, repeat the following 5 times:
> Fully depress accelerator pedal.
> Fully release accelerator pedal.
Wait 9 seconds.
Fully depress accelerator pedal and hold.
After approximately 10 seconds CEL will start flashing.
Fully release accelerator pedal.
Trouble codes are now displayed by CEL.
Count CEL flashes.
Compare to trouble code table.
Each trouble code consists of four groups of one or more flashes.
Ten flashes in a group indicate '0'.
The first group of flashes indicate the 'thousands' of the trouble code.
The second group of flashes indicate the 'hundreds' of the trouble code.
The third group of flashes indicate the 'tens' of the trouble code.
The fourth group of flashes indicate the 'units' of the trouble code.
A short pause separates each trouble code group.
A long pause separates each trouble code.
Switch ignition OFF.
ERASING:
Ensure accelerator pedal is fully released.
Ensure ignition switched OFF for at least 10 seconds.
Switch ignition ON - DO NOT start engine.
Wait 3 seconds.
Within 5 seconds, repeat the following 5 times:
> Fully depress accelerator pedal.
> Fully release accelerator pedal.
Wait 9 seconds.
Fully depress accelerator pedal and hold.
After approximately 10 seconds CEL will start flashing.
Fully release accelerator pedal.
Trouble codes are now displayed by CEL.
Fully depress accelerator pedal for more than 10 seconds.
Fully release accelerator pedal.
Trouble code 0000 should be displayed.
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I can come up for any of the hundreds of issues listed in the link I posted!! Not worth turning a blind eye to it.
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Have you taken it a mechanic or tried to read the error codes yourself?
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Check the links where they bolt to your sway bar mate may be a few turns loose! Mine where in the back and made the same noise they some lock tight in done up up good and no more issues! Also yeah they only have the kicks on the inner side as that stop left and right slippage
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how was this achieved mate?I now have 1100rpm better spool.. Logs to come. Out atm
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Coilpack dead from my experience mate! There's a wreckers in Bankstown that had a few kicking about for $60 each. Unplug one coilpack at a time to isolate which one is the fault and replace that one
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Coilpack dead from my experience mate! There's a wreckers in Bankstown that had a few kicking about for $60 each. Unplug one coilpack at a time to isolate which one is the fault and replace that one
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whats in the innovate box mate?Not so much a what have I done but a what I will do when the wife and kids give me 5 minutes of peace!
Next on the list will be coilovers, looking at MCA, Blitz ZZ-R and BC BR RS.
Anyone running the Blitz or MCA or anything else they are happy with?
Bov Causing Shudder
in Wagoneers
Posted
CAN HEAR YOU OVER ALL THE CAPITAL LETTERS SORRY !