jaik

Im in the same mess as you - just a few threads away - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=105979 I'll be following your thread with anticipation! JK

Best I can do for ya bro http://www.sido-takushi.com/misc/r32ecu JK

I found this - so perhaps I need to check if there is any sort of voltages coming IN from pin 46 - AC Switch and going OUT to pin 9 - AC Relay. Also would pin 6 be the front termo fan? Anyone know if Im right on that assumption? Ecu pinout: rb20det eccs control unit pin layout. 1 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #1 2 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #5 3 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #3 5 engine. A/T control input signal (bt1) 6 Sub electrical fan relay (engine temp switch) 7 Tacometeter speed signal 9 AC relay (AC cut signal) 10 Ground (ign signal system) 11 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #6 12 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #2 13 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #4 14 engine. a/t control input sigal (bt2) 15 engine. a/t control input sigal (bt3) 16 ECCS relay 18 fuel pump relay 19 Power steering switch 20 Ground (ignition signal system) 21(RX) Receive (control unit data reception) 22 (TX) Transmit (data sent from control unit) 23 Detonation sensor 1 (cyl 1-3) 24 Detonation sensor 2 (cyl 4-6) 26 Air flow meter ground 27 Air flow meter intake air quantity signal 28 Engine temp sensor 29 Exhaust gas sensor 30 Sensor ground (throttle sen, ENG temp) 31 clock (synchronization signal) 32 Monitor and check lamp (red) 38 Throttle opening output 41 Crank angle sensor (120degree signal) 42 Crank angle sensor (1 degree signal) 43 Ignition switch START signal 44 Neutral switch 45 Ignition switch (IGN) 46 AC switch 47 (CHK) Check (diagnosis activation) 48 Throttle sensor power supply 49 Control unit power supply 50 Ground (control unit) 51 Crank angle sensor (120 degree signal) 52 Crank angle sensor (1 degree signal) 53 Vehicle speed sensor 54 Throttle valve switch (idle connection pt) 56 Throttle sensor output signal 57 Throttle valve switch power supply 58 Battery power supply 59 Control unit power supply 60 Ground (control unit) 101 Injector #1 103 Injector #3 104 Fuel pump terminal voltage control output 105 Injector #2 107 Injector ground 108 Injector ground 109 Injector power supply 110 Injector #5 112 Injector #4 114 Injector #6 115 exhaust gas sensor heater ground 116 injector ground

All my fuses are OK. What happens when I press the AC button with the Fan on is I hear a little motor noise in the fan box area (presume its some sort of flap opening to allow the cool gases in), I dont hear the engine Idle higher (No AAC Valve activating?) and the clutch on the compressor wont engage. Ive swapped the Aircon Relays and that made no difference. So Im not sure if there is a signal getting from my aircon button to the ECU to turn the rest of the system on? What do you guys reckon? JK

No good Got me stuffed! JK

Gday, I went to get my Cefiro regassed today aswell as having a new Receiver Dryer installed and after getting all that done it turns out my Compressor isnt turning on. We ran power direct to the unit and it spins freely, so somewhere inbetween the signal is getting lost. I was wondering if anyone is a bit of a guru when it comes to the aircon systems (presume its the same as an R32) and what I can check myself to make sure its not something easy like a relay etc. When I press the button on the Controls should that send a signal to the ECU, which then sends a signal to the Relay Box on the Drivers Side in the Engine Bay, and then to the Thermo fan and Compressor? What could you advise me to check in between there so that I can hopefully get it up and running. Thanks ppl! JK

My pressure sensor is built into the guage (being mechanical) - so its only a very small oil line that has to go into the spinon adaptor. The oil temp sensor is quite big - about 12mm in diametre! JK

Folks, I have a HKS mechanical Oil Temp gauge I want to install... where would you recommend it be placed...the sump? I would have considered putting the sender into my Spin On Adaptor but I have oil pressure already there, and its actually far to big to fit into it. So this leads me to the next issue of drilling the sump to fit it... can I remove the sump off the motor without removing the engine or crossmember? Thanks alot in advance! JK

Speaking of Nismo 400R bumpers... I saw one on a VS commonwhore ute this morning in the city... yuck! Even had the round orange indicators! JK

Only prob with the NZ guys is they havent done a decent rear bar yet!

Nah, thats just typical BS comments from an Ex BigWannabe The evidence is in the thesis in this case. JK

+17 would be good or +27... +30 or more brings the wheel in too far! JK

Id just like to comment on your sheilding that you have over the PS pump and over the manifold... I think it looks tops! I also think the cover over the manifold will do a shitload for keeping engine bay temps down. Looks the goods man... very nicely done! JK

I think I paid about $500 odd for my M Sports ones. Contact www.c-red.com.au JK

http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/instructs/203a_KCA349.pdf JK

What offset is your wheels? Are you running a spacer because the rims foul on the coilovers? Thats the only reason im running mine. My tyres have taken chunks off the inside of the arch already... so I really think you need to be quite careful about how far you space out, especially with 17x9. And really you'd want to run a 235 tyre and thats what I have... But then again... sensible ride height can fix most of these issues! JK

hrms I might just keep my factory guards for when I mash the fibreglass ones. I think though I might not be able to use them with my current setup as Im running a 18x8.5 +38 with a 20mm spacer (essentially making it a 18x8.5 +18) - and my fenders were 25mm oversize and my 235 tyres scrubb a little. But my metal fenders have already been rolled so I may very well use them yet. If not I'll just make a new bracket and space them out further hehe JK

Holy shit man - thats some fkn wild damage... youre car will never handle right with the lower rad support like that. I advise you really get that entire section changed immediately... JK

Hi I have an R32 Hicas Rear end in my Cefiro and the ball joint that the Hicas arm bolts to has flogged out and subsequently my wheel now runs what ever toe angle it so desires (read: Wobbles and is very noticeable under power) I can see that the ball joint is held in via a circlip but I was wondering if anyone knows if they are pressed in hard, or if I should be able to hit it out with force, and subsequently replace it with another one. I would prefer to do this than have to swap out the entire hub carrier - which means doing lower arm as well (easier than doing the lower ball joint etc) and the driveshaft. Thanks JK

The door gap was the least of my worries fitting it! But atleast the lower creases line up ok... I was hoping M Sports would provide the oversized indicator that I clearly seem to need now JK

I purchased genuine M Sports guards... you tell me if they fit (well!)? http://www.sido-takushi.com/paintnpanel/finalk/Cefiro003.jpg Mine required some serious work for the chassis mounts for them to fit as good as they did. JK

Ive also been advised to steer clear of the ali bushes... I think some Whiteline Pineapples will be the go for me! JK

I too am another happy customer. Installed it as it came and my poor little standard turbo went upto 1.2bar... so a minor alteration and Ive bumped it back to 1bar. Too easy! EBC Killer! JK

Um whats your PPG paint code then sweetie? JK

LIES LIES LIES!!!!!!!!!!!!! JK