benl1981

I reckon any semi synthetic that is from a reputable manufacturer will do the job. If you're religious with your 5000km service I wouldnt worry too much. If you extend it to 10000kms Id go full synthetic. I rather take the cheaper oil dump more often approach..probably in japan our cars were getting an oil change every 15-20k kms. 10k kms if by the book. As motors get older therre is more importance in doing the regular changes. It is all the unburnt hydrocarbons and petrol related products that get into the oil that cause further degradation of seals etc and decrease the effectiveness of the oil in lubricating.

How do you say its fantastic. Most oils are fine. Dump it at 5000km and replace it. Its only after years of running you will know if the oil is great or not. Oil pressure on the stock gauge seems to be similar for most kinds of oil with my car..

This happened on my R33 as when I did the timing belt I left the power steer one a bit loose. It may be just that the belt wasnt tight enough. I tightened mine up and it hasnt done it again. It's a fiddly job to adjust it. You need a small 10mm spanner to get in there and. You need to undo the centre cocking nut and ease off the adjustment bolt (you need many turns on this. A very small ratchet spanner would be the way to go. I was there for about 10mins on this one as the radiator gets in the way stopping you turning it much) Reposition the belt on the pulley properly then tighen up the adjustment bolt and once adequate tension then tighten the centre locking nut.

I think most times they don't even weight the car. They just guess a weight or the compliance centre stuffed up. It was annoying because I got told a few different stories at first on what was involved to change it

Thanks mate - so did they do one for you? How much did it set you back - one place quoted $65. I was thinking more like $40 or $50

Hey mate. I had the exact same problem with my R33 sedan - it said 1570kg on the papers. What I had to do was go to a workshop who does blue slips and get an adjustment of vehicle records form ($22). The bloke I went to accepted an extract from the workshop manual that quoted the weight. He put the highest weight of the quoted sedans. 1420kg even though mine may not have had all the features but it brough it down to the lower bracket and I was happy. If your blue slip guy doesnt accept that you will need a weighbridge ticket (about $30) aswell.

Preferebly northern beaches. I have the silly HICAS aswell. Cheers

No probs if different front and back. Just make sure the 2 on same axle are the same. I.e. fronts are the same, rears are both the same. Most cars have different tyres front and back. Often you cannnot get the same tyre when you need replacements anyway..

Thanks for the reply....So how do you rate them in terms of cheap tyres? Better than most? I have michelins on the rear that grip very well - I will move them to the front and see what the simexs are like on the rear. Is there any other tyres that are about $170 or so each that are much better than the simex? I have had savas b4 that were absolutely crap - though they may have been very old when I put them on.

Looking at buying some 225/50 16" tyres. I don't give the car a heap so just looking for reasonable tyres. I hear people have good results with the simex - well atleast in the dry. Just wondering what they are like in the wet? Cheers

How are the simex in the wet?

Thanks a heap Gengis. Nice article it is. Good to keep it when you look back on all the cars you've had

Thanks Konrad - what a champ! I think it is No.56 - according to the site it is still the current issue but I don't think it is. I might order one but it would be good if you could post up the article or send it over. I might PM you my email http://www.hpi.com.au/index.php

Use the $4 cooper ones. I have cut these up and found all the components to be of good quality. Then change them every oil change. Z145a at autobarn are $4 at the moment

A few months back a HPI had the R33 skyline in it with a review on it. I leant the mag to a friend and he can't find it - I virtually bought the mag just for that!! Anybody able to scan the article in reasonable resolution so I can keep the article. I think it was HPI vol 56 Thanks Ben

A few months back a HPI had the R33 skyline in it with a review on it. I leant the mag to a friend and he can't find it - I virtually bought the mag just for that!! Anybody able to scan the article in reasonable resolution so I can keep the article. Thanks Ben

Ok - can anyone can answer the question about the Simexs? I have heard they are quite a good tyre..just not sure about in the wet. I have an awesome set of micheline pilot premacy on the rear that I can hardly get to step out at all. From what I hear the simex is quite a good budget tyre - just wondering about its wet weather performance. I'm not going to be pushing it too hard on the street - that's for losers!!!

anybody know what the simex's are like in the wet?

hhah - sorry guys just did a search for tyres..

Anyone know about the simex in the wet?? Are they ok? Cheers

Hey Cubes - are the Simexs bad in the wet? Thinking of picking up some. But if the wet traction is real bad I will choose something else...

Help to know what you want to do. he R33 are 5 studd and have good calipers hanging off them. The bnut is at the back. Bitch to get the bearing out. Big f**k off roller bearing split in 2 worth about 70 bucks and mine wasn;t even the prob.

Still deciding...looking for a range of responses on how hard the bilstiens make the ride using standard springs. Anybody got comments about there newly replaced stock suspension or bilstein...? Thanks Looking only to replace the front shocks..as rear are new..

Go PFC or standard computer - to program a bare bones computer will be costly and never quite as reliable as a factory base tune as PFC or sock ECU has.

200sx are different - I have the S14 service manual and my front hub was not the same as it (I.e. R33 different to S14 )