6InlineTT

Not yet, tonight i will be unplugging it and checking my injector slopes.

forums.haltech.com/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=10543 Apparently, You need to wire in a relay or something I'm not sure. Perhaps only on certain cars or models or eng swaps. My car is a GTfour using rb26 with combo of gtr and rb25 accessories. This is a steep learning curve for me so take what I say with a grain of salt haha.

Okay, I have some interesting info. I noticed when I bought the car the a/c compressor was unplugged on return from having the Haltech fitted. Apparently the haltech is not compatible with the skylines "direct 12v feed a/c compressor). So unknowingly I have plugged it back in. When I connect my battery up, I can hear the compressor clutch engage which tells me it's drawing power when the car is off. Perhaps my haltech has reverted to factory plug n play settings for the stock rb26 injector slope. Mine are 1000cc. This would explain the super rich nature of the tune and possibly be part of the super fast battery drains.? tomorrow night I will know for sure

Ahh okay I shall investigate that. Cheers

No I didnt check the plugs as it was running fine one minute then all of sudden no dice. I have adjusted the CAS by hand but that didnt help. Perhaps putting a timing light will tell me whether or not the CAS has died and is excessively retarding my timing no matter how far I advance it (its currently in the neutral position) yes I have tried the starter lead also. I am getting 14.3v to the battery. I cant explain the shuffling between intakes though.

Hi there, after completing my rb26 engine r&i the car wont idle or run without dumping copious amounts of fuel out of the exhaust. what is odd to me is that the car was idling fine. The battery wont charge however the terminal and alt shows 14v while running. (Tried new batt) but to no avail. The car was idling fine until the battery started to die and the idle got lower and lower until all of a sudden the tick off a relay was heard and instant shutdown. The car started back up but from then on ran super rough, wont idle at all and is rich and sluggish to free rev. Forget driving it, seems to build boost but not accelerate and just dumps fuel in. checked vac lines, fuses that I thought pertained to my issue and bought a new battery. None of which made a difference. the wierdest thing of all is that the intakes pulse one after the other at idle as if the bovs are recirculating air. I tried blocking the reference off but made no difference. Is it likely that the voltage drop caused a spike just as the car shut down and damaged a component? Apparently im hopeless at electrics but im open to instructions Rb26 GT2540s stock gtr bovs haltech plat pro ecu. twin walbro e85 pumps on with relay. also worth mentioning alt gets fairly warm after running for only a few mins. Block is earthed, alt privides 14v wtf (Confused and frustrated) Blake

I bought a plenum,piping and intercooler ,intake for my xr6turbo. Process west kit. It decreased lag, picked up 200rwkw with a tune ,exhaust and fuel system over the factory power. You will run cooler on boost, flow more and depending on the quality u shouldn't have noticeable lag. Basically it allows you to run much higher boost and more timing advance (good for response) Do it! But don't be cheap

Pretty similar to my setup, Rb26 Cp pistons Eagle rods Hks 264 , 8.7mm cams Hks cam gears Hks GTSS turbos Stock dumps Hks mid pipe and cat 3inch cat back Stock air box Stock gtr intercooler Power FC Sard fuel system Jim berry clutch 4:36 diffs 312awkw @21psi Currently swapping setup.

If only I was rich..

Well the reason I questioned it is that my xr6turbo flows over 400rwkw with a single internally gated gt3540 and a 3.5inch dump. That's 4L single with a single 3.5inch dump vs 2.6L at similar power with twin 3inch dumps? That just seems a little excessive to me. I have hks mid pipes and hks 3.5catback so I am going to spend the money elsewhere and post my results. After all, I'm not chasing every last Kw and it's more money for things like oil separators and things I'll need later. Thanks for the inputs Blake

also have hks front pipes..

yeah Im aware of the hks 2540s being mismatched etc. But honestly I dont mind the lag at all. so Piggaz, you say u made 412awkw on stock dumps? 76mm seems prettt excessive for 1.3L of airflow. I would almost say you would lose velocity with pipes that large at my power level. my 400+rwkw xr6turbo is only running a single 75mmmm dump with internal gate. basically after lunching my xr6ts gearbox im low on cash and am hoping to get away without spending too much on extra stuff like dumps. at the moment I cant see enough evidence to suggest that I need afternarket dumps. but thanks for the input. keep it coming

So I am havingbserious trouble fitting aftermarket split dump pipes to my rb26. long story short, the front dump elbow doesnt clear the rear turbo inlet pipe. so, I have noticed people saying that the stock,dumps flow well and alot of people saying they are shite. Now my theory is that they will flow alot more than people think. Yes they dont look pretty inside but they made a healthy 312awkw for me with a 3inch exhaust. I am currently puttingnmy new setup together. hks 2540s ARC intercooler 70mm hks super dragger 3.5inch exhaust. e85 now rather than spending $500-800 on dump pipes I may not need. Can anybody vouch them? I am looking to make 370awkw maybe more but im not fussed on a number. Just want to enjoy the car. so has anyone made 370awkw or close on stock dumps.? Cheers Blake Ps. I trawled threads but didnt find anything conclusive enough to make the D

Try having a protein shake without carbs an hour before you train. carbs before a workout can cause spikes of energy and flats. I had this issue even with preworkout, Dorian Yates steered my in the right direction. lots of caffiene and a protein shake. people will sayb" u need carbs to work out" and yes u do, however the glycogen stores last alot longer than we all think. Give it a go. I'm no expert. Just quoting old Dorian.(former mr olympia)

Every single main was the same. Rod bearings were fine, no idea on the clearances, it was running royal purple possibly 10w-60 thats from memory. Ill get the crank checked out, all I have to go on is receipts from the last build as I bought the car with bearings rattling.

Hahaha too busy with engines to clean Well im glad I know the problem is easily solved. Cant wait to have her back on the road.

So whilst pulling down my rb26 I noticed a rather large amount of bearing material in the sump. Oil pump was fine, not caused by surge. Conrod bearings were fine but mains had been worn away to the point where they were just a shell. interesting thing is that the motor is about 1000km old. the main bearing had the oil groove on the bottom half(where all the force is exerted. Unless there is some sort of rb26 majic trick that allows this to lubricate sufficiently, id say the engine builder f****ed up. Or is this normal?? Tomei restrictor/head drain enlarged also. Any thoughts? Next step is crank regrind and new bearings. the car should be 400awkw with hks2540. Hks264s and forged. Im thinking 1.5-2thou bearing clearance with the n1 pump should do nicely? Cheers Blake

All parts are Series 3, red stitch etc. series 3 GTR tail lights. Offers

KOYA R1s 19x8.5 +38. 19x9.75 +35 no rash, good tyres $1600

Bump. Have many miscellanious series 3 r33 gtr parts, door cards, steering wheel, dash plastics etc.

Bloody windows phone wont upload pics!

Update, picked up a few buts and pieces. Tomei Sump baffles. N1 oil pump housing with Billet gearset. HKS 2540s with split dump pipes, HKS 3.5in legal exhaust, (will be fitting varex muffler after I pass noise test. ARC twin entry cooler. . engine was a bit of a struggle as im not the smallest bloke and found access difficult. starter motor wtf??? looking for around 400awkw or so on e85 but not fussed if Its less time to change bearings and check tolerances then tune time!

Hi all, up for sale is my R33 GTR LH front guard. Has scratches and the tinyest little dent I only noticed with a torch(could push it out with your thumb I'd say. $150 GTR 33 front grill with GTR badge $200 LH gtr 33 door with door card. Door card looks like it needs attention. Could maybe clean it up. Has some mould. Make an offer over $100 R33 GTR Cluster with 60,000km good condition, has a slight scuff on the plastic screen but u can use your own screen. $250 Rb26 pistons and rods x6 $100 Rb26 factory cams, need a wipe down with wet n dry but will work fine $50 R34 GT4 stock springs/shocks $50 Will have a 33GTR factory Intercooler up for grabs once I swap it out soon so call dibs.. $250 Located Newcastle can post the smaller things for $10 or freight at your cost

Bump

Yeah I know Koyas are better design but I'm not a big fan of 19s on my car. I'd rather a nice set of 18x9 ROTAs . They look good to me and I won't be jumpin ripple strips every day haha. It's mostly for looks. I might go with painting my 33GTR wheels black to start with