abu

I was running 215/40/R17 on the front of my XD9s which were 17 x 9.5 + 17 and 225/40/R18 on the rear 18 x 10 + 18 Some serious stretch

PM sent

Hey Chasing an ALPINE 4 CH amp, something to power my FOCAL splits and coaxials. Nothing to old, something around 55 - 65 RMS per channel would be perfect I can pick up from anywhere in Melbourne, can pay postage if item is interstate but prefer local PM or call/SMS 0416 623 381 Did buy an ALPINE MRV F340 V-12 4 CH but the amp is blown so thanks to the dodgy prick that sold it to me Thanks

hehe na no adjustable arms or anything, just has ZEAL coilovers and slammed. The back can go another 4cm lower but I think I will leave it there, half the tyre is tucked into the guard. Thinking about getting adjustable arms and dialing the camber out for a tighter fit, would look tuff.. Fronts have adjustable camber bushes but I haven't taken it in for an alignment, I am going to get some more neg camber dialed in at the front although I like the way the fitment is at the moment. There set to standard specs Photo is of 18 x 10 - 1 with 235/40/R18 tyres

I had 18 x 10 + 18 running 235/40/R18 on my R33 GTR and they cleared the guards no problems, in fact they barely filled the guards but that might have been due to my small tyres 265 is quiet big though, not certain if they will clear or not Now I'm running 18 x 10 - 1 with 235/40 tyres again and they JUST just under the the front and rear guards. I have just pushed the inner lip up a little bit on the rear guards, front still has guard liners Just a whole bunch of information, hopefully that gives you a better idea

Hey On my R33 GTR the windscreen mouldings (rubber edging) are starting to fade and crack, looks pretty bad and cheap. Just wondering if they can be replaced without removing the windscreen or does the whole thing need to come out? Does anyone know what it would cost roughly to get them changed and I'm guessing any windscreen place can do it? Thanks

Any powdercoating place can do it as long as you have all the clear/protective/paint shit off the rims, best to get them sandblasted for a mint finish

maybe you've been stroking it to much and its wearing out! jk I've noticed with the NISMO carbon fibre style ones they tend to fade and go a funny colour, I went with the black chrome which looks heaps better

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David, They both look the same to me, the only difference is it seems in the top picture the brackets them selves have been taken out. All the other grooves and holes in the support it self look to be the same Maybe at some stage of its life in Japan it had an after market radiator which didn't require/line up with the stock mounts so they were removed If your going to use a standard radiator or an after market replacement radiator, just grind the brackets off the GTST support and weld them onto the GTR one. By the looks of things they will line up 100% like factory

Where you located

You reporting yourself as a dodgy member Ben, its about time man

OK guys I tested it straight off the battery and it's doing exactly the same thing. Switches on and the light goes blue.. stays on for a few seconds then switches to red, after a few seconds back to blue then it repeats it self again.. Any other ideas? Thanks

Thanks for that man, see how I go tonight. Hopefully it's not the amp and it's just the wiring hmm yep that's what I'm thinking.. ah ok that's good then. It's pretty stable the voltage with the car off and on, there's a 1 farad cap in the car which reads almost exactly what my 2 farad cap reads Will give it a shot, at least this way it will eliminate everything around the amp and only leave the amp it self in question. I'm hoping it is just the wiring man, I don't want to chase up with the guy I bought it off because I have a strong feeling it's not going to get anywhere and I will be out of pocket for this amp.. Thanks for the help again guys

Thanks Brian, I will give this a go tonight If it is the amp is it worth trying to get it repaired or best off just getting another amp?

Thanks again Mark, I will give that a shot Few others on an audio forum have suggested hooking it up directly off the battery. A 4 - 8g cable off the postive terminal of the battery running to the +12v and remote connection on the amp, 4 - 8g cable running from the negative terminal of the battery to the amp If it powers up that way and stays powered up then it's an issue with the wiring, if it goes back into protection then it's an issue with the amp. They also recommended changing the 30A fuse as it may be 'partially' blown Will try the above and see how it goes How much voltage should be running through the wiring? I hooked up my 2 farad capacitor to the same wiring and it was reading around +12v with the car off but when started it was reading around +14v Any other idea's, feel free to post EDIT: Funny thing is there is two amps running off the wiring, the other amp is a ALPINE monoblock MRP-M1000 and it's running fine with no issues!

Very nice man, looks awesome You just need a half cage with a nice cross bar and it would look mental

No takers?

That's hot man but your front bar looks warped? What sizes and offsets are those wheels?

I bought an ALPINE amp second hand a few weeks back, it's a V-12 4CH MRV F340 which I was told was in perfect working oder Hadn't got around to testing the amp over the last few weeks as I don't have any amp wiring in my car but got the chance yesterday to test it in my cousins car. With the +12v, earth and remote wire hooked up, when the amp powered up it stayed on for about 5 seconds then went into protection mode After about 5 seconds in protection mode it goes back on and again after about 5 seconds or so it goes back into protection and the cycle repeats it self over and over again Tried hooking up the 4 CH RCA inputs as well as the wiring up 2 speakers to CH 1 and 2 but still the same thing. There is no issue with the amp wiring as it originally runs a different amp, 2 CH Audioline. Checked the wiring and tested it with the original Audoline amp and no issues The V-12 doesn't seem to blow fuses at all, has a 30A in it and its fine. None of the wiring is shorting nor are any of the fuses giving way. I opened it up to have a look inside; it doesn’t smell or look blown at all. All resistors and capacitors look intact as well as connections from the main 3 inputs, +12v, earth and remote There is no burnt sections on the main board it self to show its been fried and it all looks 100% Anyone have any idea's what would be causing this? My friend's amp was doing exactly the same thing, ALPINE V-12 as well but when we took the RCA cables out and the speaker wiring it would power up fine Amp wiring is all 4g running to a 1 farad capacitor, from the cap its running a 8g power cable to the amp as well as an 8g ground cable Is there someone I can get the amp checked and fixed if there is a problem? Any help would be appreciated Thanks in advance

Got one now, thanks

Got a model number?

$20.. cash

GTAAH at Endeavour Hills shopping centre about an hour ago

XTREME DYNAMAT It's brand new and unused, I bought two sheets but only needed the one as I decided not to do the inside of the doors. One sheet is perfect to complete one Skyline door, exterior only, you will need a little more if you want to do the inside This is essential to have if your installing aftermarket speakers into your front doors, keeps outside noise out and improves sound quality inside the cabin More information here: http://www.dynamat.com/products_car_audio_introduction.html I don't have the measurements with me but it's pretty much the size of an R33 door $50 pick up as that's what I paid for it yesterday Melbourne, south eastern suburbs PM or call/SMS 0416 623 381 Thanks