tmc_2

Does any one know of the syptoms of a gying cas? or experienced any cas related problems?

I think u can test the cas with a volt meter some how. I simply unplugged it and tried to start the car and it would not start at all. Pluged it back in and it started fine. I initially was thinking faulty CAS but after reading up how htey work and fail i doubt that is my problem. When the cas goes it just dies and ur can run any more i don tbelieve it gets dodgy and has symptoms before it dies. Worth a try tho. any other suggestions?

thanks for the offer any ways mate. Is there any one out there looking ot make a buck on the side diagnsoing my problem?

I thought thas was the case but wasnt sure. does any on ein bris have a ecu i might be able to swap out and try for a small fee? Another thought, if i had a air leak some where would htis make the car hesitate servely under load? I have checked all IC piping and no leaks but what about the plenum runneres etc?

thanks for the info RevHead, I tried cleaning both the airflow meteres, i even resoldered one of them just to be sure. I am leaning towards what ur thinking but i am unsure how to set the TPS, will i just need a volt/amp meter? Oh and i changed the fuel filter that was the first thing i did when the problems started.

Hi guys I have been having on going problems with my r33. See thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=148411 I tried to book into a work shop but they are all closed till hte 15th of this month, i cant wait this long as this is my only car and it is becoming undrivalbe and i dont want to risk causeing any damage. I am willing to offer money to some one who can help me fix my car. If any one has time this weekend or sooner can you please pm, it would be greatly appreciated. I am willing ot negotiate paymment for labour either a hourly rate for some set charge. I know there has to be some knowledgeable guys on here. I am in brisbane and will travlel. thanks

Hmm all the pipes in the kit should have a lip??? i dont have a just jap one bu ti assumes its the same, i got mine directly off a supplier in hong kong and it had lipped pipes. piping kit cost me $52 USD then $75 USD for cooler from memory. Postage was a biatch

the intercooler is not directional so it doesnt matter, When i did my kit on the r33 i had to enlarge the factory hole too adn i wasnt happy, it was a pain. Upon hindiste i would spend the money on a blitz or similar kit or get custom piping from some where reputable. Its ok to enlarge the stock hole just make it look neat and paint it so it dont rust.

Update, I resoldered the air flow meter but that didnt fix anyhting so i put the old one back it, it obvisouly isnt a faulty airflow meter??

Mate do a yahoo search for 'Hybris intercooler install" and that will give u the pdf instuction guide with pics. your kit is the same its just a hybrid copy. U can also get this pdf from this forum , do a search for the link.

Hey Wheezy, I had the problems first then i installed the walbro pump thinking that the problems where because of my stock original pump. The walbro i bought was from KUDOS motorsport, the pump casing case the walbro engraving on it so i assume its legit. I did all hte mods listed after i was experiencing running issues.

Hi guys I go thte timming checked and set to 15degres base timming. It is marginally better off the line but still has the same problem when any load or acceleration is applied. No poping or misfire noises. when the work shops open in the new year i will drop it in to get checked, i also have a SAFC neo but i havent installed that yet as i am trying to fix its shit drivability.

Ok latest update, I ran the diagnostic mode, i got 5 slow then 5 fast flashes so that means all sensors are working fine. I also went ahead and installed a FMIC kit that i knowing that would do nothing to fix my problems but i was sick of looking at it in the box. Car is still experiencing same problem on stock boost. Has any one experienced this problem and have any ideas on how to fix it?

Hey guys could it be some thing to do with the knock sensors? wha tis they are faulty or not reading right? will that casue the car to go into some sort of rich and retard or limp mode while on stock boost?

WIht my hybris kit i just bent the horn brackets around to make room, i lef the centre deflector plate. The metal bumper behind ur front bar needs to be trimmed to fit the cooler. As for the stock front bar i gues u wil have to chop some of that too. I had a aftermarket bar so had no problems. just follow the hybrid manual and make fure u have a metal hole saw cutter! the cheap wood ones wont work, if unsure just pay some one to do it save ur self the hassle.

Oh by the way i checked the ecu it is a stock one from what i can tell externally. I have not been able to check the actual base timming yet as i dont have a timming light.

Thanks for the ideas guys, According to my HKS boost guage its reading just under 0.5 bar so i think about 7psi. i dont think its spark related as it doesnt break down and splutter or misfire. I thought it was rich and retard but on stock boost? apparently it can be rich and retard on the rare occasion with stock boost. Ill think ill take it into a work shop after xmas if i cant figure it out my self. If any ones has any ideaqs what to check that would be great Cheers.

hey guys today i changed my plugs to see if that would help. I put in NGK BCPR6ES 0.8mm gap This didnt fic the problem at all??? "Old plugs came out with what looked liek oit around the washers and very black with carbon build up. all 6 plugs where in the same condition. Any ideas on waht is casueing this massive hesitation?

I bought a hybrid copy kit that came with a delta fin core, its basically a APEXI intercooler copy. The isntall was not exactly a easy botl on but its all together is fairly good. I f could do it agian i would have saved the money and bought the blitz style that uses the stock IC pipes off the turbo and in the intake. I personally dont liek the ider of the hybirs kit with a pipe running across inbetween my radiator and engine then having to cut my fan blades not to mention make a 3inch hoel in the side of the car for the pipe. Other wise for the money great kit. I have the Bar and plate before and apparently the Delta fin is supposed to be better and cost more. Ohnestly for a street car under 150 rWK i doubt id notice the difference?

Hey mate that difficult casue u checked all ligical points, maybe check the two electronic connect plugs on top of the fuel tank lid, If ur pump defifnetly works out of the car and its not ur fuse it seems some where there is a break in the electrics powering it. Id say if might be the connectors in the fuel tank lid. Good luck

Yeah it is trucky, i Didnt do all the mods at once, the list i have down is each thing i did one by one to try and fix the problems it was having, after each thing i did the car still had the problem , i did each step about 5 days apart. Correct me if i am wrong but - If this is a spark related problem the car should splutter or misfire? i dont have any of those symptoms? If it is rich and retard why is it going it on standar 7psi boost? I have a SAFC Neo comming for it so f i cant fix it in the next few weeks ill leave it in the hands of the tuners when they install the safc. If any one has any ideas id much appreciate the input. Cheers

Hi Guys, aftyer 5 weeks of searching this forum trying to diagnose my problems wiht my r33 i am now at the last resort and need to ask u guys for your opinion. The car drives fine idles fine but if i accelerate anyhtign more than say 1/3 throttle and it gets a noticable flat spot majorly. Its so flat it rev out slow. VR commodores beat me!! This is my second r33. It does not misfire or splutter at all, just does not rev out like ti should. Turbo is boosting and spooling like it should be. I have stock intercooler has bleed valve but i returned it back to stock 7 psi boost. Turbo back exhaust, pod filter, GFB BOV set to plumb back, JustSR metal intake pipe. apparentl rebuilt wiht forged acl pistons so the previous owner claims. Now to try and fix this problem i have done the following. 1- Installed hard metal intake pipe to prevent any loos of power due to the rubber pipe sucking closed. 2- Made sure there are no boost leaks or vacum leakes. 3- Installed another Air flow meter which noticably looks to be in better condition. 4- Walbro high flow fuel pump ( the claimed 500hp jobbies ) 5- Replaced the fuel filter I am to the point that if i cant fix it soon i am thinking of selling it. If any one has any idea please let me know, if u live in brisbane ill even pay you if u can make it better! Thanks inadvanve guys

thanks for that mate, your a champion I have a couple more pics of it from the side and back too. I sol dit to michael down the caost, i was its first Australian owner, michael was its second. It was a awsome car i missed it so much i bought another r33 but its not as good to drive as this one was. From what u have been reading it doesnt seem like many or the r33 stolen are turning up? Keep us pdated with how things go ok!

This was a pic of it before the drift teks and looking alil worse for wear.

Wholy Fck Dude this was my old r33, the guy u bought it off swapped me a bmw for it!! i am so worried about these theft goign on in brisbane now! its like its only a matter of time!!! Pm me pleas eif any info comes up about it ok!