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got my RB26 back off them on thursday, started it this afternoon, works a treat

thanks for that, worked a treat, all bled

I have almost completed my rebuild of my 32 gtr, it is sitting on the hoist at the moment and i am scratching my head as to where the so called "air bleed plug" that the service manual says to pull out to get constant hydraulic pressure to bleed the 4wd is, i have searched in the boot and under the car to no luck, if someone could point me to where it would be that would be great, the manual says "lower dash side" on the location and the plug is supposed to be white or something, thanks!

not on the door? umm....top of the A-pillar above the window would be interesting or with suction cap holders on the dash or front window

Hmm, has been a while since i did it, so the colours may be wrong, umm i got a multimeter, put one on a bolt on thecar, and then played with each wire and pressed the door switch, when the wire grounds then that is the wire that does the door switch i think...

yep. its illegal in most states , think the wire grounds when the door is opened

i hooked mine upto the doors from the i think it was red/blue wire running along the skirt near the boot latch on the floor next to the drivers seat in my 32 works when my doors open and when my alarm turns off, the neons fade on with the interior light

yep, sure have, my engine is down there ready to be picked up on monday, have had a couple of engines built by them, so have a few mates, pretty good

as long as you make sure the magnets are going to clear the window when it's down, 6.5" splits are very nice in the front, fit i there pretty easy too... my mtx's have heaps of room between the window and the magnet, kenwoods are pretty thin too, not sure about pioneer...

hehe, its more like a heatsink

standard VL turbos dont have blow off valves do they? thats compressor surge going tsh tsh tsh tsh

hmm never noticed that lol interesting

depends how hard u launch it too...feeds in the 4wd wit the g-force sensors and abs sensors...

yeah, definately go the 6.5" splits, just use some MDF and make a bracket for them and off you go... as for brand, what mr 32 said, goto a car audio place and have a listen, make sure all the settings on the head unit you are testing off are set to flat, and the loud is off too, gives a better becuase you want the flat sound of the speaker to be the best sounding compared to othe ones, not the modified or bass boosted signal...

me too

Looking for some R32 GTR Front and rear (non-Vspec) rotors in decent condition Also looking for a Greddy/Trust Type-R BOV with adapter to suit R32 GTR... PM or email [email protected] cheers.

Lol, hey rob, fancy seeing you here nice GTS-t

Custom Seat Rails for Recaro Style Sports Seats Car:Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-t (similar for most silvia's and skyline's) Seats: Recaro Style Reclinable Bucket Seats Installers: Hilarious Motorsport Tools Required: 14mm Socket, Angle Grinder, Safety Goggles, MIG Welder, Welding Gloves and Mask, Clamping tools (G- Clamps or Vice Grips), Marking impliment, Can of Black Spray Paint Parts Required: Square Tube Steel, Angle Steel Time to Complete: 2-3hrs (The first one took me a bit longer but once i had it all sorted it was pretty easy) Steps (Passenger Seat): 1. take the standard seat out and remove the runners off them. You will need some parts from these to make the rails. 2. clamp the runner closest to the door to a workbench or vice and grind off the tabs that bolt to the floorpan, try to keep as much metal as possible on the tabs as you need to use these for the new rails. 3. bolt the individual tabs to the floorpan in their original location and measure the distance from the front of the flat surface the factory rails mounted to. 4. cut a piece of square metal tube the same length as you just measured. 5. weld the front tab to the tube 6. rebolt the tab you just welded with the square tube to the floorpan, have the rear tab already bolted in and using a g-clamp or vice grips, clamp the rear tab in positon to the sqaure tube so that it will bolt in correctly. 7. weld the rear tab to the piece of square metal. (the first side of the rail is complete...) 8. take the other side factory rail and do the same by cutting off the tabs that mount to the floorpan. 9. bolt them back in place and measure the distance between them. 10. using a piece of angle steel this time cut to the length you just measured 11. weld the front tab to the angle 12. replace the bracket in the car with the rear one already in place, and clamp it to the bracket. 13. weld the rear tab to the bracket. (now for the fun part :-D...) 14. cut a piece of angle steel that is the same length as the square tube you used for the first part of the bracket. 15. mount both the brackets in the car and clamp the freshly cut piece of the angle steel to the square tube facing inwards towards the other angle bracket of the inside rail. 16. grab the seat and measure the distance between the front and back bolt holes for the runners, this is the distance you need to make the cross bars apart from each other. 17. measure the front distance from the inside of each piece of angle steel. 18. measure and mark back from the front of the angle you just clamped the distance of the angle steel and then add half of the width of a piece of angle steel to that number (you want the bolt holes in the middle) 19. measure across the mounts at that location. 20. cut a piece of angle to span that distances you have just measured. 21. on these pieces of angle you need to cut out each side so that it will sit flat in the brackets and have the angle piece facing downwards. 22. place the pieces in the brackets and measure and double check the widths will allow the bolts on the seat rails to fit properly. 23. clamp the cross braces to the piece of angle that is clamped to the square tube in their correct positions. 24. weld the two cross braces to the angle. 25. place the newly welded parts back in place in the car and clamp the angle steel mount side to the cross braces, remove and weld these in place. 26. put the mount back in the car, this should now be two seperate but close fitting parts. (this allows you to set the angle of the seat to get it straight) 27. clamp the angle steel back to the square tube. 28. place the seat on the mount to check its positioning. 29. mark the locations of the runner bolt holes, ensuring that the seat is straight and able to recline correctly without hitting the door frame or glove box. 30. remove and drill the bolt holes. 31. bolt the seats to the bracket. (on the home stretch now!...) 32. place the seat and rails in the car and bolt them back in. 33. now the seat should be firmly mounted to the cross braces, and the angle of the seat can now be set. 34. place the seat in a normal upright position (it is also better to have the other seat in the car for a reference) 35. while getting someone to look and tell you when the seat is straigt from the front of the car, move the angle bracket up and down the tube steel until it is correct. 36. when it is correct, draw a line on the angle steel where the seat should sit (all the way along) and clamp it if possible. 37. remove the seat, and take the rail off the seat. 38. weld the square tube bracket to the angle bracket in the position marked. 39. sand/grind any sharp edges off the rail. 40. paint the rail black so that it doesn't rust up and you dont notice it :-D 41. bolt the rail back to the seat. 42. bolt the seat in the car. All Done! you now have a custom seat rail and seat in your car. For the driver seat, it is much the same, only with the R32 GTS-t that I did these seats for, i found the drivers side needed to be lifted more than was available in step 34, this was resolved by extra angle steel on top of the square tube and then that was attached to the angle steel with the cross brackets. (Please Note: I take no responsibility for the construction and possible fault of any seat rails for any reason that have been designed from this article or otherwise, I reccomend getting a professional fabricator/engineer to construct these for you, and make sure you get these ENGINEERED! This article is only here as a guide.)

Yeah man, has a +5 overbore on it...

Have them at home, will post them up after work tonight

just put the link on the post now forgot to put it there

Heres some piccies from Autosalon 2006 Sydney Love the Autostyle skylines, and MR R34

gotta measure it, im interstate until tomorrow night, will measure it when i get back

BUMP! need to sell these soon, open to reasonable offers PMs replied short motor is just the block and sump, and pistons and rods, the crank is being used in my other engine, thats what i got it for, the block is in good nick, just needs a bore and a hone and shoud be good to go

Okay, have an RB26 short motor for sale in bits, my car is running again so these parts must go, make me an offer For Sale - Standard Pistons & Rods $300 ono - Blown R32 GTR Standard T28 turbos $80 (one seal blown, one exhaust wheel gone) - complete R32 GTR HICAS 4WS (units only not steering arms) system $200 ono Sold - Rb26 Block with GTR sump +5mm overbore (SOLD) Located in Sydney, preffer pickup if possible, postage can be arranged (not for the block tho...unless you want to organise a courier to pick it up ) Open to offers, contact me at [email protected], PM or 0402065067 can provide pics if required...