oRiCLe

hey, can someone please plug in BNR34400552

hehe, yeah, same problem my mate had fun isnt it lol i have mine hooked upto the acc too, love em glowing blue all the time

bump, neg.

blue wire on the back of your ignition switch

howd the spacers go?

nah, they are like 4x6 or 5x7" speakers, wont fit, its really easy to make spacers for them, as for 6x9's, should be able to make spacers that fit them, is there a particular reason for wanting to put the 6x9's in the front? coz it would probably be easier to fit 6.5" splits or even 6" coaxials in there... if ur in syd, i have templates of the spacers i made...

double

Biggles on this account, couldn't be bothered changing. You shouldn't need a battery upgrade, as you are not running large amounts of power. If its all in and your headlights are dimming, etc then you'll have to look at those kinda upgrades, but normally you'll be fine. XM-504Z is your amp. I'd say leave this to speaker duty and get a response monoblock for your sub. I say this because the $ per watt your paying can't really be beaten. Although matching your sub and amp isn't hugely important, there is still a reason they are rated. You will notice a 400wrms amp compared to 100wrms (which is close to what your giving it now). You will get more volume, clearer and drive the amp less which is better for it in the long run, and your giving the voil coils what they are after. As for the RCA statement above, its true. Give it a try.

Just an update. If you are splitting the rear RCA between the sub and the speakers, this will have a rather large effect, as you are basically halving the signal that it will recieve. Try changing nothing on the amp, removing the splitter and running the same volume on the hu, you will notice an increase in volume. Does the HU only have 1 RCA output? If it has 2, then run another set of RCAs back to get better performance.

the gain chages the voltage sensitivity of the input from the head unit, so by turning the volume of the head unit up as loud as you want it to go, without distortion while the amps gain is turned town to minimum, then turn the gain up on the amp slowly until it is at a desired listening setting, it will give the amp the maximum voltage to the amp...

splitting the RCA's should work fine, and that amp should be enough power for the splits at least and the sub should work fine with that amount of power, what head unit it it? how have you got the settings on the amp?

just get some 10/12mm mdf, and trace around the plastic bracket that holds the factory speakers, then cut that out and put a hole for the speaker and screw that to the door in its place with some sellys no gaps and off u go thats what i did to get my 6.5" in the front of mine... check the depth tho, gtst's apparently have narrower doors so they might need to be brought out a bit otherwise ur window might hit them when u wind down...

still rate the response for power for dollars... # 12" 4-ohm subwoofer # pearl mica injection-molded polypropylene woofer cone with urethane foam surround # overlapping ribs on cone surface for improved rigidity and dampened resonance # extended pole piece and bumped back plate for increased cone excursion # power range: 35-400 watts RMS (800 watts peak power) # frequency range: 25-800 Hz # sensitivity: 93 dB # top mount depth: 5-5/16" # sealed box volume: 1.0 cubic feet # ported box volume: 1.5 cubic feet # Recommended Q-Logic Box Type: 1, 2, 3 # warranty: 1 year found that rating on google for ur sub so theoreticallly the amp and sub are well matched in their ratings 400wRMS at 4 ohms albeit, you can get an amp that is more powerful than the sub, just dont turn the gain up too high, and vice versa, u can get a amp that is rated less than the sub that is a better quality brand and get a cleaner sound out of it... depends what you are looking for, take the sub and box to a car audio place maybe and ask to try some amps see if they make a difference?

at what ohm rating, they are underrated so they are more like 1000wRMS at 1 ohm, and prolly 4-500wRMS at 4ohm and 7-900wRMS at 2ohm ? just guessing but the factory rating is: 4ohm: 400wRMS 2ohm: 700wRMS 1ohm: 800wRMS

Jaycar/Response monoblock...

yep, it was at the skyline show and shine also, number plates "NUR"

um, to take it apart, and to get the driveshafts out so i can get the engine off the crossmember...

Anyone have any idea where i can get a 36mm socket from (preffeably with a 1/2 inch drive) near banktown on a sunday or has one that i could borrow to get my front drive shafts out???

Item: R34 GTR V-Spec II Location: Sydney Price and Payment Conditions: $80,000 neg Extra Info: Contact Details: PM, 0402065067, or [email protected] R34 GTR V-Spec II Bayside Blue NSW custom plates "NUR" included Aftermarket Exhaust (not sure on the brand) no joy riders or tyre kickers, genuine interest only please. $80,000 neg

driven a 33 gtst and have a 32 gtr...32 gtr anyday...34gtr if i could afford it... 33's are nice to drive and look okay, just not my cup of tea so to speak...

ah now i understand, hehe, no empty bay at the moment, but next week i will when my engine comes out...

what toyota has that? i know u can get an inline brake bias valve that will increase or decrease the pressure to the front/rear brakes but not a bias in the master cylinder, u would need to run a balance bar and two master cylinders for that to work...

does it happen at low revs or all the time?? coz unless you have the revs up on a brass button, it is going to shudder when you are letting it off as the plates dont tend to have alot of give in them and bounce on and off causing shudder...maybe try just to give it a bit more revs and lift off the clutch a little more harsher to get it to engage quicker and completely instead of riding it half out or something..

wouldnt you need a custom pedal box for a brake bias to work? or at least a custom adjustable master cylinder... check out somewhere like race and rally, they will probably have the pedal boxes/master cylinders?

from and to which state? if ur bringing one into NSW then it has to go over the pits so it will need to be totally legal, and the more standard the better...not sure about other states