CoolPC

Ok, I can get them, they're $850.- by the time they're here in Australia. If you want one you will need to let me know asap, I have a windscreen place up here in Brissy who's willing to buy two of them (I'm getting three) off me right away, so there must be some more Stageas driving around with damaged windscreens Edit: The $850.- includes seafreight (2wks shipping time) as they won't fit into my 300ZX, plus the 300ZX isn't leaving Japan until January anyway. Keep in mind that the 2wks ETA puts arrival right around xmas so it'll probably be just before new year, maybe even first week of Jan before I can get the windscreen to you.

R33 windscreens don't fit. I've got a 300ZX leaving Japan in a week or so, I'll get my guys over there to stick a couple of windscreens in it, looks like they're rare as rocking horse shit over here... not surprising really. I really wanted to have a set of TE37s in that car but a windscreen's more important for now :-/ I won't even ask Nissan, it'll definitely be $1500+ and apparently getting a mold done would be anywhere between $1500.- and $3000.- depending on where you go, so really your O'Brien quote is low!

You drive a $20,000 car without comprehensive insurance? Wow... I'd rather go for a local car than drive a car without insurance if it cost me more than $10,000. I just couldn't justify losing so much money! Btw, I have a crack in my windscreen too, will chase around for one next week, I have a couple of mates who work for windscreen repairs so I'll see what they come up with, I'll let you know!

If it's a white one with factory body kit it's probably mine, I live in Durack. Seen your R34 too, sitting at the lights near Aldi

Took some pics of my Stagea on the w/e. Thought you guys might be interested I have high-res versions as well if any1 wants them...

Well I don't plan on doing it again, AWD is quicker anyway, I don't see the point. Did they tell you why not to do it? Did you ask them?

Yep, stalled the Auto up to just a little bit of positive pressure on the boost gauge, it outlaunched a 300ZX and he didn't take me until about 50m before the 400m mark. I kept it in 2 but didn't hold it in 1 because I don't seem to be getting much of an advantage, just hits the rev limiter too much. I also hit the rev limiter around 120km/h in 2nd because I changed a tad late, so could prob get it to 15.4 or so, on a cold night maybe low 15s? Have a look at the timeslips (left one is AWD vs. 300ZX Turbo, right one is RWD vs a rather quick S15) The other pic is my bro staging vs. a Corolla Twincam, I don't think he stalled it up far enough because he got bogged a bit and only took the Corolla around the 660ft mark, that's where he ran a 15.77. The Rolla got a 16.something.

Yup, that's right, not spinning @ all. I wanted to make sure before I go flat out

The fronts disengage 100%, I had it up before I took the car to Willowbank tonight.

Took it down the quarter at Willowbank 2nite. Got a 15.55 @ 143km/h in AWD and a 16.03 @ 138km/h in RWD. Let my brother have a go too, he got a 15.77 @ 141km/h in AWD. No problems at all running in RWD apart from traction of course. Edit: Did raise some eyebrowes though doing a bit of a burnout

Yep that works, only the rears spin, both of them too Taking it out to Willowbank 2nite to see which way I get the quicker times, judging by how easy it spins up the wheels I think 4WD will be quicker

I was talking to a mate of mine in Japan because we're looking for TE37s and he came back with this: > I called the parts shop to specify the parts about Rays Volk TE37 Size is > 17x8.5 30/40 > They told me this alloy has 2 types. they are 30/40 > If that Stagea is customized as low-down, the wheel size suppose to be > 17x8.5 30/. However the alloy may scratch the fender of the car. > If that Stagea is not customized, the wheel size suppose to be 17x8.5 40/ > However it may scratch the inner of the car > > The Parts shop adviced me that Ray Volk TE37 has other types. > They are 17x8J 33/38 33 is for low down and 38 is for normal car.

Wouldn't be doing this without a boost gauge, that's for sure...

So do you, but yours has got the solenoid between the T-piece and the intake which I removed on mine.

Mad, I already told you what I think of T/S stuff, I just don't have much faith in it, you get what you pay for. I know how boost control works, I've been working on turbo cars for many years, I don't think I'd need a diagram to hook up a simple bleed valve. Your bleed valve does exactly what I've done, it introduces a small leak into the plenum->wastegate actuator connection. I do agree with you that a boost controller of some sort is a better alternative, especially because the weather is now getting quite hot and I'd rather turn the boost down to exactly 10PSI rather than somewhere between 11-12PSI because I really don't want to risk detonation in my 50,000km motor Here's a diagram of the stock RB25DET solenoid setup: I appreciate the fact that ppl have grounded the solenoid to achieve 8PSI boost all the way but that's because the solenoid has a restriction inside it even when it is all the way open.

No I don't. You guys need to have a look at where the hoses are going on the solenoid!! The solenoid is connected with one end to the hose coming from the plenum and going to the wastegate actuator. The outlet of the solenoid is connected to your intake (i.e. it vents back into the intake as it should). If I bypass the solenoid, I *always* have a small leak going to the intake, hence the boost increases, just as if I had the solenoid set to all the way open. If I hook the solenoid back up then the solenoid will close that leak (my guess is close it a little for 8PSI, close it all the way for 5PSI), thereby reducing boost. Got it?? You guys are saying the solenoid's function is to introduce a leak, but it isn't. The function of the solenoid is to reduce/close a lsmall leak that's always there. Have a look at the hoses, you'll see

I know you can get a T/S boost controller for $100.- but I'd rather go without a boost controller than buy T/S stuff because I've always had bad experiences with them. If anything I'll go a full EBC with dual solenoids, i.e. E-01 or AVC-R. Anyway, driving the car all day yesterday, it doesn't hit 12 PSI boost (more like 11 actually) unless I really give it some stick but if I do it does have some serious nuts, enough to put a grin on my face and it wasn't able to do that for me before, me being used to the GTi-R and all. It doesn't seem to be leaning out at all, if anything it's running a bit rich - as expected, but that's just me going by the colour of the spark plugs and exhaust fumes looking/smelling rich. Also get the odd pop through the exhaust. I reckon the boost is ok the way it is, just need to get an S-AFC and whack it on the dyno to make sure the A/F is right, until then I'll hook the solenoid back up just in case it is leaning out afterall. One thing that's annoying me a bit is the induction noise, it's about twice as noisy as in my GTi-R and the BOV sounds like an atmo venting one... How come you guys mention stock boost of 5PSI? I thought it was 8PSI, but limited to 5PSI until around 4500rpm? Even without the pod filter I was getting 8PSI when going flat stick... Also, bypassing the solenoid doesn't reduce boost, it increases boost. The solenoid closes a bypass (i.e. a leak) in the hose coming from the intake and going to the wastegate actuator, i.e. the hose that tells the wastegate actuator how much pressure the turbo is currently making. When the solenoid isn't bypassed the wastegate actuator receives more pressure than if it is bypassed (and as such the waste gate will open sooner = less boost). Technically all that should happen with the solenoid bypassed is an increase of boost to the 4500rpm+ level, so it should have ~8PSI. I'm guessing because of my pod filter and exhaust I'm seeing 11PSI because there are no other leaks... or possibly the solenoid never fully opens and always reduces boost a bit and now it can't do that anymore. Anyway, the point I was making is that the boost is very much solid, not spikey or anything, in fact it's as stable as it is in my GTi-R with a Profec B-Spec, if not even more stable! I really don't see why I should have an EBC at this stage simply because I'm getting the perfect increase for tuning already, rather spend the money on an S-AFC and FMIC. And as SydneyKid said fuel consumption can easily be regulated by how much you put your foot down, but I checked and even on 11-12PSI all day yesterday I used around 15L/100ks driving moderately hard (had the gf in the car ) whereas before I was getting around 14L/100km.

I got a pod filter for the Stagea the other day and when I was putting it in I thought I'd also stuff around with the boost control a bit. In the end I found out that if I bypass the boost solenoid (the standard one) I get a nice increase in boost to 12PSI. Car pulls nice and hard, it's not spiking, just a nice curve up to 12PSI. Not too bad really! Edit: Am a bit worried about my ceramic wheel though, I can't remember what the max boost for these turbos is? Anyone have an idea? I searched the forum but couldn't find what I was looking for...

Driving in the rain today I got the 4WD warning light, possibly when I was giving it a bit and lost traction off the lights, anyone know exactly when the 4WD light comes on? It was fine after I turned the car off and back on, but while it was on the "S" switch wasn't working anymore...

I found this site looking around for Stagea gear: http://s108.secure.ne.jp/~s108121/ssl/stag...les/stagea.html

We should catch up sometime... my sis lives in Arundel...

Got the car back today. I was going to get it registered too but the Department of Transport I went to (Sherwood) didn't want to register it for me and said I have to go to Greenslopes Ah well, I'll get it done tomorrow morning... Also have to put my aftermarket exhaust and lowered HKS springs back in, then I'll be set!

That looks like it's in the yard of Preferred Auto on Brisbane Rd.?

I got a quote off Greenline for a Blitz LM Intercooler Kit, suit WGNC34, price was 112,000 odd JPY, so around $1450.- plus shipping... If we got a few ppl together we could probably organise a group buy and bring down the price a bit?

Well according to his profile he's got a FMIC and a 3" exhaust... looking at the AFR doesn't look like he's got anything to correct the fuel, and it looks like it would really benefit from it Add a bit of boost and it should make a fair bit more power again...