Burns
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Posts posted by Burns
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97 Series 1 RS4 with a lot spent on parts and mods but very rarely driven and I need the garage space.
WA Rego but the car is located in Melbourne. I dont have the time to organise RWC and Vic reg so will be selling it with the WA reg and no RWC. I purchased it 8 years ago and transfered the WA reg to my Vic address with no issues but never got around to transferring it to Vic reg due to lack of use. A Vic buyer should be able to transfer the WA reg into their name and then at a later date transfer it over to vic reg without having to go through a RWC.
The only issue I can see with getting an RWC is the POD filer and straight through with no Cat but I have the stock exhaust stashed away.
130,000km $15,000
Interior:
- R34 GTR Seats (I still have the stock seats so are open to selling without the GTR seats for a discount)
- S15 200SX Steering Wheel (Will come with Stock wheel too)
- Alpine sound system. Headunit, Front splits, Rear Splits, Amp and 10" Sub
- Boost Gauge
Chassis:
- Buddy Club P1 wheels (I still have the stock wheels but the fronts will not fit over the AP Brakes.
- AP Racing 4 pot Front Brakes and R33 GTS-t Rears. (Stock Brakes will come with the car, They need new Pads so I'm not really interested in swapping them back)
- Bilstine Dampers
- King Springs
- Whiteline Sway Bars (Car will come with stock and a 2nd set of Ill fitting Whiteline bars.
- Poly Bushes through out
Power Train:
- Conversion to manual using a R33 GTR Gearbox. (I have the Auto Box if the buyer wants it)
- Excedy HD Clutch
- Front Mount Intercooler
- Apexi Exhaust and Dump Pipe, Shoots Flames!
- Apexi Cone air filter
- Oil Catch Can
- Apexi SAFC
- Bost Controller
- Turbo Timer
- Spit Fire Coil Packs.
- Cams (I'm not sure what they are but do not sound stock and it makes more power than it should with stock cams)
- Adjustable Cam gear.
Tow bar but never fitted.
I think that's it but there is probably more.
When I had the Apexi SAFC tuned it made 210kw at the wheels on 12psi. I have normally just driven it with the bost controller turned off though.
Chris
0430 011 069
- R34 GTR Seats (I still have the stock seats so are open to selling without the GTR seats for a discount)
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I did some research on this when I converted to AP racing 4 pots on the font and R33 GTS-t on the rear. I found that caliper piston area on the fronts was actually slightly bigger on the stock Stagea calipers than the AP's 2 big pistons verses 4 smaller ones. On the rears the piston area was the same.
I think the master cylinder on the Stagea was bigger than that on a R33 GTS-t so changing would give a softer pedal
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Thanks Alex. sound like a bit of a fiddle. I will have a go at it over the next few days.
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I need to remove the rear bar to bolt on a tow bar I have had laying around for a while.
Has anyone pulled the rear bar off? If so where are the bolts located? Any tips on the mounting locations would be good.
Thanks
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I’m planning on putting a set of R33 GTS-t rear calipers and disks on my Stagea to compliment the AP’s I have on the front. Will I have any trouble using off the shelf braded lines intended for an R33 or could the wider track and sub frame of the Stagea cause problems?
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Flames are all good fun until you’re accelerating out of a RBT, change into 3rd and kaboom there’s a huge orange flash and you see the cops diving for cover in the revision mirror.
The pop pop popedy pop starts to get annoying after a while too.
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It sounds like it might because the timing is too advanced on the exhaust cam.
It’s not the plugs or coils. I’m running spit fire coils with iridiums. I did have a miss problem before I changed the coils and plugs so know what that’s like. The cold idle problem is like starting a carby car on a cold morning without a choke. I have to give it a bit of throttle to keep it going and the revs dive and peek between 200rpm and 1000rpm once it’s wormed up a little its smooth as.
It’s don’t think its running rich and moods shouldn’t make it richer with the throttle closed on the stock ECU.
Thanks for the ideas
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I have an adjustable cam pulley. The car has had some stuff done in Japan as well but I’m not sure what. The ECU has Japanese on it saying “Simulator test ok Boost to .8”
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I’m having a few running and refinement issues with my manual converted S1
It has 172awkw on .7 bar with all the usual mods. If I run any more boost it just retards the timing and I get a very uneven power curve. It has an SAFC that I had tuned just after the manual conversion. When tuning it they leaned it out all through the rev range and maybe a little too much at idle. The tune gave a 40awkw power increase and massive fuel economy improvement. I was hoping it would stop it back firing and shooting flames but it still dose it.
On closed throttle down hills or coasting between 1500 and 2500 rpm I get a constant pop pop pop pop pop from the exhaust.
On up changes when giving it a bit I get a big kaboom with a bright flash out the back. It’s like I have a jihadi with a rocket launcher firing from my boot.
Since the tune, on cold start it also idles very rough. Which I think is because it is too lean, when it worms up a bit its fine.
The only thing I can think of that could be causing the popping and flames is some sort of ignition cut on closed throttle or the injectors not closing off fuel supply properly.
Any ideas?
I would like to be able to fix it without having to go to programmable management.
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I doubt the S2 body is any stiffer. The R34 was a complete sheet metal change over the R33 so they would have taken advantage of that to make it a bit stiffer. When doing model updates car makers only make enough changes to make existing owners want to upgrade, these changes are normally visual or power upgrades. There would have been no reason to invest in tooling and engineering to improve chassis stiffness on the S2. If they felt it needed to be stiffened they would have used the braces already developed for the 260rs.
I would estimate that the chassis rail bracing would cost the equivalent of $80 per vehicle over a volume of 50,000 vehicles that’s 4.5 mil. In comparison the tooling to make a new unique plastic moulded body kit would be around 5 mil, the cost of designating and engineering it would be that much again. I know what my preference would be if I was a product development manager with a marketing background.
My S1 has the mounting points and nuts welded in the chassis rails for the front brace so it looks like the body of the RS4 and 260rs are exactly the same the only differences would be two pressings on the trans tunnel, for the gear leaver hole and the mounting point for the hand brake.
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The 54611 bar across under the engine is just the sway bar. The 56230 bar on the rear is also just a sway bar.
The 54422X bar looks like it is unique to the 260RS and R33GTR It links the two chassis rails together about 20cm behind the front cross member mounts.
The 3 rear bits 55451N, 55452M and 55422X look like they link the front and rear mounts of the rear sub frame together.
I would love to see some pics of the bits under the rear of a 260RS to see if they will fit onto an RS4.
Nissan / Autech guys obviously thought the benefit was worth the cost for cars with stiffer suspension, more grip and more power. I think most of us are running stiffer suspension, have more grip and more power than a stock 260RS so it would probably be a worth while upgrade. I know my car has a fair bit body of flex; I can feel it and hear it creaking when turning into steep driveways or going diagonally across speed humps.
I’m thinking about buying a set of the stiffeners and getting a batch of copies made for a group buy.
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See attached
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Dose the RS Four S have the chassis stiffening that the 260RS has? Front chassis rail brace, rear sub frame bracing and upper C pillar reinforcment?
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There was one in Perth that hit a bus and caught fire while the driver had his foot stuck.
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mcnamg
Yep I have seen that but there is no blue wire in the loom, I have a blue and white wire in the loom that isn't connected to anything but when I connect that to the "Remote control" output or power antenna wire on the head unit to give it 12v is draws so much current that the voltage coming from the head unit drops to 1.3v. I tried a direct connection to the battery just to test it and it makes no difference to the reception but the wires get hot.
Ian
Yep I have seen that thread I tried giving the Black and yellow wire 12v yesterday and it just sparked, shorted out and melted the end of the wire.
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It's not the band expander I have an Aus Alpine unit not a Jap head unit it picks all the Aus frequencies fine but the signal is week and I don’t get any AM. I have the adapter plug on the aerial wires to take it from the two into one. I think the problem is with the signal amplifier not getting power. In R32’s with the window aerial there is a black and red wire that gives it power but I can’t work it out for the Stagea.
Dose any one have any idea were the signal amplifier is hidden, I suspect it will be in one of the rear quarters but don’t really want to go pulling it all apart.
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Has any one worked out how to get decent reception with aftermarket head units and the aerials in the rear windows? The only wire I have that isn't connected to anything is blue with a white stripe but when I give that 12v it doesn’t make any difference to the reception but sucks up a heap of power as if it's earthed.
The black with yellow stripe wire that was mentioned in another thread as being the power for the antenna is connected at both ends. One end joins into the wires going to the antennas and the other links into the main body loom.
I guess my next step will be to snip the black with yellow stripe wire and give the end going to the antennas 12v and see what happens.
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Has any one worked out how to get decent reception with aftermarket head units and the aerials in the rear windows? The only wire I have that isn't connected to anything is blue with a white stripe but when I give that 12v it doesn’t make any difference to the reception but sucks up a heap of power as if it's earthed.
The black with yellow stripe wire that Alexcim claims is the power for the antenna is connected at both ends. One end joins into the wires going to the antennas and the other links into the main body loom.
I guess my next step will me to snip the black with yellow stripe wire and give the end going to the antennas 12v and see what happens.
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I had my head under the dash today finishing off my audio install and noticed a post it note and label on my ECU the only bit in English is "Boost .9" Im guessing it's specs for some sort of retuning done to the ECU but it doesn’t seem to make any difference. I still hit R&R at .7 Bar and can’t make over 172awkw even with a SAFC.
Can anyone translate the Japanese on the label?
It also has some wires sticking out the bottom with plugs on them, any ideas what these might have been for?
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Mine is a Fkn siren it used to just be a little beep beep now it is defining. I think something got messed up with the manual conversion and now the reverse parking sensor siren goes spastic whenever I’m in reverse.
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Yep Revzone did the work so they know hot to do it all now. I had a few issues with some late and missing parts from Nissan so it’s not finished yet, just at a level that is drivable. The hand brake isn’t mounted, no boot on the gear leaver so I have a hole in the floor etc.
Component Cost
Gear box 2nd hand $1,300
Fly Wheel $0
Hand Brake 2nd hand $0
Hand Brake bracket $47
Clutch New $320
Clutch Line New $120
Master Cylinder New $130
Clutch Pedal New $80
Clutch Pedal bracket New (Stagea) $112
Pedal box R33 to Cannibalise 2nd hand $280
Slave Cylinder New $95
Spigot Bearing $25
Bolts $100
Brake Fluid $50
Labour $900 est
Total So far $3,559
Left to do:
Gear Oil $60
Gear leaver Boot rubber and Plate $150
Bear boot leather $100
Gear Knob $50
Shift Leaver / Shift Forks $300
$660
Finished total $4,219
I will see if I can make it to the meet but wont be able to do the whole cruse.
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Dump pipe, front pipe, no cat, little hot dog muffler then canon Apexi rear muffler with removable silencer in place.
Still running the stock auto ecu but with an Apexi SAFCII that needs a tune to lean it out a bit more.
It pops and farts on engine braking as well. It feels so much more powerful with the manual.
I will have a go at getting some pics but it could be a bit tricky.
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I took my Stag for it's first good drive after geting it back from the workshop with the manual in and im getting huge orange flashes on gear changes when giving it a bit of a thrash.
I better not tow a load of hay.
(Vic) Fs Nissan Stagea Days Rs4 Manual $11,000
in For Sale (Private Whole cars only)
Posted