Burns
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Posts posted by Burns
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It's a 86 so not that heavy
I would need auto box ecu and all the bits an peaces too
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My Grandfather had stuffed the engine in his BM. It has a shattered rocker arm and damaged piston that he has been quoted a minimum of $3000 to have fixed. On top of that the engine is just plain worn out anyway and the auto box is not changing down as it should and making very rough up shifts.
It’s probably only worth $4,000 all fixed up or $1,000 with stuffed engine but he has just spent a fair bit getting dints and damaged paint fixed, new shocks and bushes, brakes and tyres.
I am thinking it might be a better option to re power it with an RB20DE or RB25DE auto.
How much so you think this could be done for?
Im guessing some were between $1500 and $2000 for the engine pack / half cut and probably another $2000 of so for it to be put in maybe less.
It would just be a basic re powering not a performance conversion so could use the stock exhaust and radiator and would not require any of the normal intercooler pipe work so should be reasonably cost effective.
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Still for sale $18,000
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I will probaly stick them on when im due for new tyres.
Got any pics of the HollowType R's SK?
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I got quoted $199 from Autobarn
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Yeah they do look better than I thought. I thought the gold would look a bit strange on the Silver. I will probably put them on when the stock tyres are worn out.
They are 17's and yes I will get some tyres first.
I don’t see any point going bigger than 17’s The wheels and tyres just cost heaps more, don’t look much better, rougher ride, heavier and probably handle worse or crap bumpy Ausie roads.
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I have a set of gold Buddy Club P1 that I got to put on My white R33 that I am now selling and I can't decide if I should put them on the Stagea.
The seam to fit fine the clearances etc are all the same as the Skyline just not sure if I like the look.
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How much did the Davis Craig kit cost?
I have a few coolers lying around that I could probably make fit but it might not be worth the trouble if the Davis Craig kit is not too expensive and is proven to be an easy fit.
The silver and copper coloured one would probably be my best bet.
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Thanks SK I think that covered most of it.
Mine is sitting at 325mm rear and 340mm front with the rear camber adjusters as far out as they can go.
I think I will adjust it to 345mm front and rear (The same hight as the Whiteline GTSt kit).
What way do you need to wind the adjusters to make it higher up or down on the shock body? and will adjusting them to sit higher make it any softer?
What way do you turn the damper adjuster clickers on the top of the coilovers to increase and decrees dampening?
I think I will try to get the Teni’s working for me if I can before lashing out for Bilsteins.
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Down the bottom on the screen there is an area called Display options. There is a box to select the age of the threads displayed by default it is set to show the last month only. Just change it to as far back as you want.
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I will have a play around and do a through comparison between my R33GTSt and the Stagea over the weekend and get some measurement.
SK you explanation makes sense now that I think about it more. All Falcons from the base small 2 pot front and 1 pot rear up to the big 4 pot and 2 pot Brembos on the GT’s use the same booster and master cylinder.
I think with a heavier car like the Stagea the brakes are more likely to be the week link rather than the tyres.
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I thought the 260 brakes where the same as R34 GTR
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In the Victorian mountains all vehicles must carry chains. They just don’t make 4WD fit them as early and in fact most AWD are treated as 2WD so it’s only really the true 4WS’s that they don’t tell to fit chains at the slightest sight of snow.
Snow tyres are good on snow but not worth worrying about in Aus seeing you would only ever be going 20km max on snow after a 400km drive on highway and they are no better on ice. On soft powdery snow or slop chains are actually worse than just normal tyres. They dig thought the snow and slip on the asphalt.
I normally ignore the goons and signs telling you to fit chains and only fit them when it gets icy at which point AWD is not much help any way.
Im really just trying to work out what wheels they should be fitted to and I don’t want to fit to all wheels. With the 4WD button on the dash and snow mode on the auto selected does it give a true 50 / 50 split front to rear? In which case I guess the front would be the best option as long as it has the clearance and the AWD system dose not do anything funny.
I already have chains to fit 16 inch wheels
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As we all know the brakes on the RS4 Stagea are kind of small. The rear disk and caliper look about the same size as the rear brakes on my sisters laser infact the pad area and caliper piston capacity looks smaller than the front brake on my dirt bike and the front look about the same as the rear brakes on my R33 GTSt.
As has been mentioned in pervious posts that most Skyline family brakes or aftermarket kits should fit on without to much drama. What about the effect on the ABS and the master cylinder size?
Does any one know what the master cylinder size is on the Stagea vs R33 /4 GTSt and GTR and the caliper piston sizes?
Nissan would have matched the master cylinder size to the caliper piston size to give the desired pedal feel and due to the smaller calipers and therefore caliper piston area the master cylinder on the Stagea would be smaller than on a Skyline.
I am a little concerned that if upgrading to R33/4 GTSt, GTR etc calipers and disk you could almost be doubling the caliper piston area. This would mean that the small standard Stagea master cylinder would have to be compressed twice as far as it would in a Skyline with the larger sized master cylinder therefore giving a rather spongy pedal.
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Sounds like the GCG is still probably the best option.
Im getting 172kw at the rear wheels with a front mount, unshielded pod filter, SAFC turbo back Blitz Nur spec exhaust with a non split dump pipe on 12psi. I think I will get the brakes and handling sorted out to my liking before going for any more. Apart from fitting an air box or shield for the pod filter.
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I will be using my Stagea for a fair few snow trips over winter and will probably be forced by a snow cop at some time into fitting chains as unnecessary as they probably are on the Stagea.
Being a RWD based driveline I was thinking it would be best to fit them to the rear wheels but in conditions when you would be fitting them you would have the 4WD button selected locking the center diff and giving you a 50 – 50 front to rear torque split.
Would it then be best to fit them to the front wheels giving you better traction for braking and steering as well as forward drive?
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I have only had mine a few days now and I am already trying to work out the best way to get it setup to my liking. I have Tein HA coilovers in mine that are just a bit too hard and low for my liking with stock everything else. :headbang:
I have a Whiteline works kit on my R33 GTSt 4 door that is perfect. Not too hard not to soft, very comfortable, nice and low but not too low. It gives great feedback and makes the handling very predictable.
I would like to give the Stagea the same characteristics as my R33 as far as possible and use as many of the bits I have on the R33 as I can.
The GTSt kit uses BNF24Z 24mm front sway bar and BNR11Z 22mm rear sway bar VS the BNF27Z front and BNR11XZ rear for the GTR and recommended by SK. As far as I can tell they are both exactly the same dimensions but the GTR bars have Z for heavy duty in the part number, I am guessing they are just made out of a slightly stiffer material.
Am I correct in this assumption and will the GTS bars be adequate on the Stagea if set on their stiffest setting?
Will the valuing in the rear R33 GTSt Bilstens be suitable in the Stagea if used with the appropriately harder spring weight and what should this spring weight be?
Can the front R33 GTSt Bilstens be made to fit in the Stagea and will their valving be suitable if used with Whitline GTR springs?
Its probably not worth swapping the caster and camber bushes over so I will probably just get a new front caster kit and rear camber kit then an alignment and I should be right.
If I am unable to get the Bilstens to fit or their valving is not suitable for the additional weight and higher spring weights of the Stagea what spring weights should I get to fit to the Teni coilovers? Or will increasing their height also make them softer?
My main complaint about the Stagea is the excessively light steering and the lack of feel and feedback it gives. Not only is it too light it does not seem to self center as well as the skyline.
Does the Stagea run a different steering rack etc or is this feel just given by its lack of castor and bigger steering wheel. Will a caster kit or adjustable caster bars fix this or is more required?
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Kev
It has a Whiteline works suspension kit that consists of up graded sway bars, caster and camber adjustment kits, Bilsteins shock, lowered Whiteline springs and a front strut brace.
I have also fitted a HKS Turbo timer.
It comes with RWC and 11 months rego.
You may well be able to get one imported for $16,000 but you don’t get to see what you’re buying, you have no idea if the mileage is correct. You will also find that if you order now you could well be waiting many months for the car to be shipped due to the massive rush that is on to buy and ship 15year old cars as a result of the impending rule changes. i doubt that price included on road costs so you can add another $1000 or so there.
I have reduced my price to $18,000 I am checking to see if any of the suspension bits can be transferred onto my new car if so I will drop there value off the price.
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Tow bar
SK do you have your tow bar now?
Once I get my suspension sorted out I will be looking to get a tow bar on mine to tow my motorbike and potentially my Datsun 1600 rally car. I had Prestige tow bars in Melbourne make a custom tow bar for my Skyline that they rated to 850kg. They are happy to do the same for my Stagea but are unsure on what capacity rating they will be able to get to.
If you have them, some photos or drawing of yours could prove to be very helpful.
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I have just been having a bit of a think about upgraded turbo selection for a RS4 Stagea and if the specs should be different to a turbo for a Skyline if the same results are desired. I had planed to get a 250kw GCG high flow job for My R33 and may one day want to do an upgrade on the Stagea.
Would the ideal turbo specs for a Stagea be the same as for the Skyline or would a turbo with different characteristics be more suitable when considering the Stageas extra weight and auto trans? I am guessing you would want it to develop peek boost at or just before the torque converter stall / lock up
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As we all know series 1 Stagea only came with the normal non triptronic auto but the series 2 came with the same auto but with tiptronic shifting functionality.
Has any one thought about adapting a series 2 tiprtonic system to a series 1 or making a module / switching system to allow tiptronic shifting?
I remember when I was researching putting a Lexus 1UZ V8 into a Volvo I came across instructions for setting up a tiptronic style shifter to control the auto box. In the Lexus the auto trans control computer and engine management computer are combined and if going to aftermarket management the auto would not shift. They were getting around this by wiring up a 5 position rotary switch that gave current to certain wires to control what gear was select and lock up the torque converter.
I assume that the Stagea auto must work the same way. If someone with a bit of electronic smarts had a play around they could probably work out what signals the ECU was sending to the trans to get it to select each gear and lock up the torque converter.
It would probably then be possible to bypass the ECU and manually control the trans shifting with some sort of combination switch or through a module that takes inputs form two click switched on the steering wheel.
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You dont have to be in Melboune. It's repalacment came from Perth
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Thanks guys.
Part of my reason for getting a Stagea is that I am sick of the bad attention that I have been getting in the Skyline. So far the Stagea seems to just get annoying attention I just hope it stays that way and that dip shits don’t get into them and spoil it for everyone.
Leech
Yeah that’s it in my Gallery pics
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Time to sell the Skyline
It’s a white R33 GTS25t manual 4 door type M
It was imported two years ago with 70,000km and was auction grade 4 it now has 98,000 km, I have serviced it every 5,000km using Motal oil.
It is essentially stock but has Whiteline suspension bits in it and I have just spent $600 getting the windows tinted.
It also has a tow bar rated to 850kg that I had fitted to tow my motorbike (only 300kg).
Apart from a few minor stone chips on the front bar this car is immaculate; I have even had some people think it was a new car. I don’t think the back seats have even been used. It has been kept under cover day and night and barely even driven in the rain.
I love this car and don’t want to sell it but I need something I can use to tow my rally car. I have just paid the rego and have a valid RWC for it.
$18,500 ONO
I am in the outer north east of Melbourne and the car can also be viewed at work in Campbellfield.
Mob: 0439 304 903
Chris
Re powering a BMW 525i with RB power
in General Automotive Discussion
Posted
We are not talking performance conversion here. The old bloke is about 80. I think the E34 came with a 1.8 too so a RB20 or RB25 should push is along ok. This is just an alterative to fixing the clapped out and busted stock engine and giving him reliable transport in the car that he loves.
Other wise he will end up in an Echo. I know I don’t want to end up with an Echo as my last car.