r33_racer

Should be the same. Just use the original rb30 threaded barb that sticks out.

farking hell. Just insane! I love it! I wish I lived in the states!

You guys are lucky! Its great when they have an interest in it!

Yeh. I reckon one of those bad boys and a good ecu with good traction control and it would shit all over alot of other cars. The supercharger guys told me of a hill climb car they fitted a supercharger to over in Perth somewhere and it was turned into an animal. Lol workshop tomorrow mate! Engine and gbox are going back in and then start hooking everything back up and finish exhuast system and fuel system. Then test. I had to get the head reco'd. Valves were not sealing. Lol lucky I did a leak down test before putting everything back in the car! Pretty much wasted a week there though

You know what I think would be the perfect setup......

Just make sure you get a twin scroll rear housing and keep it small and get a manifold to suit. Everything else sounds good. The bov should be fine!

I will most definitely be taking videos of it when its all running. Probably when getting tuned too. Lol you know we have lakeside now too. Not just QR! Thanks robbo_rb180. Im sure that rb30 would have been nuts, even with the centrifugal type on it. Do you know what sort of power it made? Amen TiTAN! The whole reason I went for the positive displacement type!!! ftmfw!

Yeh Andrew, I only cleaned it up and put new bearings in it and shimmed up my standard oil pump and put it back together. Everything looked good. It all happened over the weekend when my phone was either dead or not on me. I didnt think anyone would want to see pictures of assembly or hear about it in any detail. Wakefield full of skylines sounds tops. Lol though I dont know if my skyline would make the drive. Would have to tow it down. Sounds like something Noel would be interested in since he was just down there!

Also my egt sensors and datalogger turned up before! About time. Many thanks to customs/auspost for being quick with delivery.

We dont really have the room as such. With both the r33 circuit car and now midget, its getting packed. The race car is currently on hold until i get my shit done. Motor needs to come out of the race car asap to change over oil control rings to stop all the oil usage at idle. Did you mean I didnt say much about putting the motor back together???

Spent most of the night just ginning around with more small stuff. Making up bungs and bolts with washers to plug up plenum holes that are no longer needed and the oil and water lines in the block that are no longer needed. Also welded some -10's onto the rocker covers. Felt like a long night for not much accomplished Dull night. Yeh im suprised nobody else has really looked into it too much. lol unless someone else has already done this and realised its no good and im wasting all this time, money and effort! I wish the drift blokes in europe who did this with the 2.8l on a rb30 would hurry up and finish their car so they can get it tuned and see what its like. It will give me a fair indication of what mine will be like.

yes and the vct...forgot that bit too.

Moved house yet???? Sorted harness out yet???? lol

I also want to see this thing in action! Hopefully someone gets some videos for those of us who are interstate.

Go for the nitto pump!!! I think the rb25 pump actually flows abit more then the rb26 pump or maybe it has slightly higher pressure. I think i saw the pump figures in the r33 service manual. Im guessing due to the hydraulic lifters...

Yeh you really need a higher flowing oil pump. Not sure if the standard pump will flow enough. Though I guess if you keep revs to around standardish it wont be too bad.

Yeh. its almost identical to how I build our rb30's. Ive mentioned it to others before and they didnt think it was right... Anyway its good to see others doing the same thing.

hmmm interesting about the build details....wonder where he got that from...I didnt think anybody else did that.

Go the t04z with a small rear housing!

Hahaha yeh, more then one would be a pretty big handful. I dont know how some guys manage more then 1....when do you get alone time???? More importantly work on car time!

1. You want to use acl race series bearings. Its pretty much the standard that everyone uses. Common as. 2. Some people use plastigauge, some use micrometers and some use both. For your build plastigauge will more then likely suffice. Though as you are a fitter n turner, you should be competent with a mic. 3. What tolerance do you mean? The bearings dont come with anything spec wise. Just bearings wrapped in plastic in a small box. I think their specs can be found on the acl website though. 4. Dial indicator on the crank snout and you just push the crank forward and pull back by hand, it should be free. I dont know about others, but I usually make sure its 4-5 thou. 5. You dont touch the bearings. You usually linish or grind the crank journal, however acl do make 1 thou oversize bearings. 6. On the standard main girdle ive found that with acl bearings ive gotten the 4-5 thou without ever needing to glass them. But if so, a piece of thick flat glass, some wet n dry 600 i usually use cause thats all thats in the shed and some kero and do some figure 8's on both sides, usually an even amount and then clean and refit and check and go forward and back until you achieve your desired thrust clearance. You should try and find the r33 service manual, it will have all the info you need and is handy to keep on your comp.

Quick update... So I did manage to source some o rings that fitted perfectly this afternoon. That problem solved. Next problem was I needed to take the fuel rail into work with me to go source the right fittings for the feeds and return...big sigh! Lol but it hit me that I could just sand back some of the anodising and tig on the -8 weldons right there and then. So thats what I did. I will have to paint the rail now so it doesnt look so poxy. But it worked fine and knocked one problem off the list and saved me some money. I also cleaned out the sump and welded on 2 x -10's for crankcase breathers on the inlet side. Cleaned and fitted the oil pick up and removed some crap around the block thats not needed anymore. Got the splines for the clutch changed over today at NPC to suit the rb25 input shaft, so the clutch is ready to roll now. Just gotta fit the new water pump and rear main seal and chuck sump on and then finish off all the other ancillaries and have motor ready to go back in the car. While the motor is out, I want to clean up the engine bay abit. Fit the power steering pump and run the lines to and from the rack and hopefully wire up the ecu for it. Thats the plan for the week, so hopefully motor/gbox can go back in on weekend! It was a short night tonight. I blame gf's

Yeh you are not wrong there Justin. The ideal setup would be an afr sensor in every runner if it were possible. But I dont think they can handle the heat, perhaps only in a NA setup??? Ive always wanted to have a proper egt setup in our race car and in my road car, but there arent many affordable solutions around. Most stuff from the states is v8 suited and quite exxy. This setup isnt too bad price wise, its just not as compact as other units. But I can live with it, also if I want other stuff logged I can just buy the sensor unit and hook it up. I think they can run 32 sensors total inline and log all of them. That is quite alot. Only others I may look at are oil pressure, oil temperature and possibly i/c temperatures before and after. No pictures today, but I had to increase the length of the tensioner slot on the charger bracket as the belt I have is a fly shit too long, belt with a firm tension was using up all the slot. Threw it in the mill and gave it another 20mm more. Also turned up two stainless spacer bushes for the top feed fuel rail. Need to get some O rings to suit the Injector Dynamics 1000cc squirters I got so they will fit in the greddy manifold properly. So many little things to gin around with atm. I wanted to take some pictures of the mods I did to the standard oil pump on sunday, but my stupid iphone died in the arse. I cleaned up the inside area with a die grinder. Alot of the edges and holes in the pump are burred everywhere. Nissan obviously dont bother cleaning up inside too well. I also ported out the pressure outlet side(entry) after deburring to aid flow into the hole. Its basically a big chamfer around it with a nice transition into it. Came out pretty good. Though probably of no worth in a high quality Jap pump as they are pretty good! Also cleaned up the edges of the inner gear. The casting or machining line that sits just below the edge of the inside circumfrence and follows it around on both sides, it looks like a stress point for cracks as it is a pretty rough edge when you look at it closely. I ground all of that off around both sides, so now its just a nice 45 chamfered edge. Cleaned it up with some 800 wet n dry after to get it super smooth. Glassed bother inner and outer gears a couple of times also with the 800 to freshen up abit of cross hatching and make sure there are no high points or protruding burrs. Came up pretty good. I also put a n1 relief spring in it to hopefully bump up the pressure abit. I was thinking of getting a collar and nitto oil pump to go on this, but figured its all pretty stock apart from pistons so if it blows ill build a 30 properly instead, plus im running out of time to have this all ready for the QLD SAU drag day in about 3 weeks time. May 29th is my goal! Hopefully I get it done intime! Its going to be a push.

Muchly appreciated!

Oil pressure sounds good. Dont worry about it.