Chris Wilson

Inside a stock R33 GTR fuel tank a pair of wires runs across to the LH side of the tank. What are they for, a secondary fuel level sensor? I can't get my arm / hand in there far enough to feel what they might terminate in. Thanks.

Resurrecting this older thread to say that my MAP sensored RB26 with 2860 -10 turbos and 280 degree, 10.8 mm lift cams was transformed from simply very nice, with no surge, to stunning when I had Z axis mapping done (4 dimensional mapping) by a proper Motec trained expert here in the UK. I use it pretty much solely as a track car, but even on track having clean as a whistle part throttle running and response has made it SO much better, and quicker. WELL worth pursuing to get the best out of a multi throttle turbo engine on a MAP sensor, in my opinion, I would never be satisfied with anything less now.

A couple of people on another forum have suggested HKS, and someone else thinks its a Fujisubo Legalis R (don't you just love Jap naming culture?). The gearbox is a Swedish Tractive sequential. I posted a thread on its installation a few months back. It works superbly and having drop gears allows me to effectively change overall gear ratios like changing the diff ratio, or, I can change individual ratios as they do a huge range. Thanks for the info on the exhaust, it is not hacked about, cat back it's totally original. The thread is here about the gearbox: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tr...amp;hl=tractive

Anyone? Would really like to buy a new one, thanks.

Looking to get another cat back system the same as the one on my GTS-t. I don't know what make it is, it was on the car when it came to the UK before I started modding it. Even with a serious RB26 engine on it the system is very very quiet and passes all track noise tests with ease. It's now getting a bit tired though and may soon perforate. What is it, and is it still available? Thanks. Ignore the first cat replacement silencer, that's one of RB Motorsports excellent jobbies, which pulls the noise down even further. Thanks. Photos at:IrfanView HTML-Thumbnails

You can carefully release the lock bar in both connectors, remove all the pins noting positioning in writing, and transfer the casings to the correct sides of the loom. One wire in the main loom then becomes redundant. I have this running on an RB26DETT engine in my R33 GTS-t. It's on Motec but that's by the by as far as the igniter wiring is concerned.

I double checked pulley alignment, even borrowing a Gates laser pulley alignment tool. All was spot on. I got a reply from a UK forum suggesting the hard shifting of the sequential dog box may have caused belt oscillation on the long un-driven run. This made sense, for example Toyota Supras in manual form have a damper (shock absorber) on the auxiliary belt tensioner that's not fitted on automatics. I made a simple bracket to mount a cam belt idler pulley for some engine or other (4-AGE Toyota I think) to run on the back of the PAS belt. This has cured it completely, and it ran maybe 80 laps of a fairly long UK race circuit at race type speeds, with race type gear shifting. Thought I'd share in case someone comes upon this in a search. Two UK drag racers using RB26 engines have had this same issue, similarly cured. Thanks.

Looking for a quicker (higher ratio) rack for an R33 GTR and also for an R33 GTS-t. Is there anything commercially available, or than can be fairly easily modified to fit correctly? Thanks.

I hear what you are saying re a locally built one off, but past experience has shown some one ofs fail miserably in the noise department, so many companies are into huge bore systems and massive exhaust tips it's hard to drum into them that I want *QUIET*, modest pipe sizes for ground clearance and still more silencing, and care not a hoot about looks or "that special sound". I just want to tip up at any UK circuit KNOWING it will pass the noise tests, even if it's 70 BHP down on its potential. Thanks. Any contact info for the RacePace system for sale, or RacePace themselves?

I don't want anything bigger than 3 inch, even if kills some power. I need to be practical about this I do mention the desired Db figure in my original post. Details of the noise test are 102 DB at 0.5 metres from the exhaust tail pie, measured at 90 degrees to it, at 4000 RPM. I would consider buying from Oz if the postage wasn't an absolute killer and i was sure the system would meet my needs, so can you let me have a link to these Racepace systems please, and the one for sale? Thanks.

I am in the UK, so please nothing made only in Oz, no offence Looking for a track day exhaust for an R33 GTS-t on an RB26 engine running 280 degree cams and 2860 -10 turbos, so it's a bit vocal at the top end. Has to be 100% sure of passing all UK track day noise tests, I don't care WHAT it sounds like, it just has to be very quiet and with as little restriction as possible. As an example an HKS Hi Power Silent is FAR FAR too loud, I need something as close to stock noise levels as possible. Thanks. 102 Db static, at about 4000 RPM needed absolute tops.

RB26 engine with a sequential box turning only to an 8500 RPM limiter. I am 99% sure the PAS pump, pulley and bracket are correct and compatible, and they are all OE, the crank damper is new and stock. On the road I have no issues, but on track I get the belt either turning inside out or coming off broken. I have heard this can be an issue, especially with sequential dog boxes and un-damped clutches, which is my set up. I use the car for track work. I have made a pulley to run on the outside of the none tension side of the PAS belt, as it seems a long run, to hopefully dampen any oscillations. It seemed to ripple when revving and coming off the throttle. Pulleys seem perfectly in line. Has anyone else had issues? I haven't yet tried it on track to test my theory. Thanks.

I was helping break an R33 GTR for bits today, and saw it still had a good rear screen and a food pair of rear quarter glasses and trims intact. I am building a race car and want to fit Lexan 1/4 glasses and a Lexan rear screen, but need the trims. As far as I know Nissan only sell the trims for the 1/4 glasses with the glass itself. has anyone got any tips to removing the 1/4 windows and a rear screen without damage to glass or trims? Thanks.

I have put an RB26DETT engine on Motec M800 management in my R33 GTS-t. It's been a long term project, but it's nearly there. However, I have forgotten where an eyeletted wire in the starter / alternator loom goes. It comes out of the loom as a heavy gauge single black wire with a brass 6mm ID eyelet tag on it near to the alternator. It looks like it would go under the main fuse box to starter battery plus wire, or maybe it's an earth lead? I have the small eyelet that's the alternator body earth connected to the rear body of the alternator, so I don't think it goes there.... Any ideas please? I am getting no battery positive to the injectors at the moment, it's a car loom issue, not a Motec patch loom issue. Thanks.

Here! The dark areas are the sealant remains

If you go here: http://www.chriswilson.tv/RB25_build/RB25_build.html my RB25DET spare engine build is shown, it has an HKS low mount turbo on it and the coolant and oil lines are detailed well.

Have you tried removing the air flow meter and washing it through inside with brake cleaner? Sometimes the hot wire gets contaminated ESPECIALLY if you have ever had an oil impregnated "performance" air filter in it. The other easy thing to try is either `scope the output of the O2 sensor to see if it's dead or lazy, or just fit a new one.

RB25 and RB26 squish pad removal adds a LOT of extra volume to the combustion chamber, yet when I see this recommended or suggested I never see any mention of how the compression ratio is brought back up to a sensible level. Off the shelf pistons seem to be used and a 0.9 mm head gasket is as thin as any I have come upon. So what CR are people getting with a full squish pad removal, and how are they achieving a figure close to stock? I am not asking as to why the practice is recommended or discouraged on the vasis of combustion, I am purely interested in how a sensible CR is achieved once they are both gone Thanks.

OK, found it, it was capped off, thanks for taking the time to help me out, cheers Jarrod

I have rebuilt an RB25DET engine that had a none water cooled core Apexi single turbo on it. I have now switched to a Garrett water cooled core unit and need to plumb in the coolant lines. I know one goes to a tapping towards the rear of the block on the exhaust side, the other seems to go around the back of the block and plumb in on the intake side somewhere. Can anyone specifically tell, or preferably SHOW me where the stock water cooling line plumbs in on the intake side please? Thanks.

Interested in both R33 GTS-t and R33 GTR The idle up is via a pressure switch in the pump high pressure line. The rack itself has a bypass bleed solenoid to vary rack assistance effort.

How is the steering rack ("weight, effort, pressure", call it what you will...), solenoid triggered? Is it either open or closed, thus light or heavy, or does the ecu duty cycle it to give a linear steering effort change? Thanks.

I work on single seater and sport prototype race cars for a living and this problem sounds absolutely typical of a release bearing of either the wrong diameter, or the wrong nose shape. If the bearing presses on the incorrect part of the diaphragm fingers the geo goes all to pot, and a very strange over centre action occurs. It gives a funny pedal feel, and can even damage the diaphragm itself. The bearing should be contacting the fingers within 1/6 inch of their tips, and be round nosed, not flat. I'd pull the box and have a look. Did Giken supply the bearing?

Is this one of the places you say there are outlines for the I/C through inner wing (fender) piping. Photo is of an R33 GTR shell. Thanks.

Just found this, I'll grab the drawings off AP tomorrow and see if it'll fit easily. Will be cheaper than boring and honing mine, and finding a suitable piston assembly I think. Cheers. http://www.apracing.com/info/products.asp?...+Type_2390_2389