Chris Wilson

Thanks, would be very keen to buy the manifold and wastegate but the turbo and downpipe would be wasted as I intend something bigger for it. I also need to consider carriage costs / weight as I am in the UK (but happy to arrange and pay for all shipping to me). Should you ever decide to split it up just let me know. So effectively still looking, thanks for the reply

From early HKS kit, looking to buy an HKS CAST IRON single turbo manifold, with or without wastegate and wastegate elbow. The manifold must be PERFECT, preferably new, with absolutely no cracks, welds, repairs or mods. Please be aware they also did an RB25 one, I have 3 of these, so must be RB26 type with 3 stud wastegate elbow take off on manifold. Will pay decent money for one, or more than one. Thanks.

It will adjust the ride height quite a bit MORE than the distance between the grooves, as you need to take into account the wheel to damper movement ratio.

I'd run a scavenge section for the head, too, myself, and get around the lack of drain back the RB engines suffer from. Let us know how you get on, I too am considering dry sumping a 2WD car with RB26 engine. I came to the same conclusion re blanking the front of the engine off, although I believe you could use the tomei pump as the pressure side, and belt drive just the scavenge sections. I think I'd go for remote pressure and scavenge sections though at the end of the day, so pump overhaul isn't a sump off jobbie.

Yeah, OK, so I tend to get a bit carried away with these things I dress like a tramp, don't have holidays, and do 99% of my own work, it's a kinda drug I guess

I must say I didn't realise PPG did a sequential kit. Will this fit the R33 GTS-t casing, or is it for the Getrag casing? Thanks for all your feedback SK. The stock box is slowing me down a lot. The ratios are all to pot, second is too low, I never use first save for starting off, and the change into fifth is slow, and 3 rd and 5th synchros wear out for fun. I now NEED a decent gearbox in it, a proper weld in cage to get some tortional rigidity, and some more power, which should be addressed by an all steel RB26 lump which I have nearly completed. Once the cage is in I'll be a lot happier to fit some nice carbon doors i got vac moulded here in the UK at 2.8 kilos each, with full stock pattern internal shells. I feel too vulnerable without the stock steel doors with impact bars and no cage, particularly after stuffing it sideways into the barriers at Oulton Park last year...

I wouldn't call it free play, by any means, I had to put a good deal of load into it, I would describe it as feeling as if the joint was embeded in rubber for NVH reasons. What exactly *IS* inside it? I have never taken the little plastic(?) cap off the top to see. Thanks for the reply.

I am in the UK, here we call the dog rings baulk rings, even when they are really dog rings, IYSWIM ?

R33 GTS-t front suspension cast iron "gooseneck" to front hub upright swivel joint, what's inside it, any rubber? I welded a dirty great bar onto a suitable PCD steel wheel today to see what complaince there was, and where it was, in the front suspension, and was horrified by how much camber and castor change could occur due to compliance in this swivel joint. Anyone had one apert, or know of cost effective ways to get the compliance out of the things? Thanks. (This is for track use, that's why it's a big deal to me, and probably not a big deal in a road car).

Cost! Plus I don't need more than 5 gears, to be honest. It's just a fun track day car, I don't want to get too carried away, I have a six speed sequential in the racecar, so I have pub bragging rights when needed

Thanks for the replies everyone. Gary: My take on normal service for a dog box would be to inspect gears and baulk rings, and to have to change the odd baulok ring and gear due to dog face wear if they can't be reground. Can I take this as a fair assessment of their requirements or do things literally break frequently? Are you running it as a 2WD or 4WD transmission? Thanks.

Looking to buy PPG straight cut dog engement gear set for my circuit R33 GTS-t. They are all but unknown here in the UK, are they reliable under circuit race conditions? It will be behind a 650 BHP single turbo RB26 engine, and the car will be on narrowish slicks. No drag racing at all, mainly rolling starts. Thanks. Should anyone have a perfect kit for sale, or is able to offer a good discount on a new one, please let me know

Thanks, that's exactly the info I needed. Do you use one? What do you think of the kit? Any issues? It will be going in a RWD GTS-t with about 650 BHP. It won't be doing drag starts, just track days, but on slicks.

Anyone got the list of ratios the OS Giken clsoe ratio gear kit comes with please? Will it alos fit the R33 GTS-t casing, as well as the 4 wd casing of the GTR? Thanks.

Why is fifth gear synchro so weak and troublesome on the manual R33 GTS-t boxes, and is the repair kit (which I believe includes updated,modified parts) for the GTR box applicable to the GTS-t one? Thanks. Finally, how many of you actually run Pfitzner 5 speed dog box internals in a GTS-t case? How do they perform in a circuit race environment? Thanks.

You could grind the plates a bit thinner, maybe machine the case to have less preload, or just maybe remove one pair of plates, you'd need to get it stripped on the bench and have look / measure up.

Looking to buy genuine HKS or Apexi single turbo *CAST IRON* (NOT tubular) manifolds in mint condition (no cracks or repairs) for both RB25 and RB26 engines. Thanks.

Only by looking at the ramp angles in the housing, none of your pics show this.

That part number is definitely for a none adjustable 2 way.

It looks as if th I/C is very shallow, height wise, and probably the cross flow rad is too, so one effectively sits ABOVE the other?

Try the steering with the engine not running, parked up, then WITH it running. There should be a MASSIVE reduction in effort with the engine running. If there is NO difference the PAS has failed, either the rack is faulty, the pump, its drive belt, or just maybe a blocked fluid reservoir gauze or a crimped PAS hose. If the car has taken a blow to the front wheels it is possible to burst the rack seals or for the pressure relef valve in the pump to be forced wide open and stick, or other pump internal faults to be created. If there is a slight difference suspect eithe the pressure relief bvalve in the pump, a goosed pump, or a goosed rack, or again, a crimped hose. Rack faults are USUALYY combined with fluid leaks. If you narrow it down to the pump or the rack try and borrow a known good pump and try that, it's quicker and easier to change than the rack, although neither are exactly tricky!

Is it still possible to buy new shells for either the R33 GTS-t or R33 GTR from either Nissan or anyone else? Thanks.

There is a company in Japan that offers "longer" bottom arm joints so a spacer can be used to bring the geo better if you lower the front a lot (brings the lower wishbone more parallel with the ground when lowered). I can't believe these are specially made parts, the costs would be huge, so I can only assume they have found a joint from another application that fits the splined hole in the bottom arm perfectly, and has the correct circlip groove diamater and height, and the correct stem taper and thread. On this basis it's almost certainly possible to buy the STOCK lower joint seperately, albeit under a different application? Whetehr the detective work is worth the hassle only you can say

Will R33 GTR front seats bolt straight into an R33 GTS-t series 2 shell? Are there any good commercially made seat runners available to fit a proper lightweight race seat into an R33 GTS-t, and if so, who makes them thanks!

I am in the UK looking for a used RH side headlamp unit for my Series 2 (1996) R33 GTS-t. I am having trouble finding one, but there are several people selling R33 GTR units, will any of these fit, even if I have to buy a pair? Thanks.