Chris Wilson

Who sells Electra carbon fibre bonnets, either here or in Japan? I have seen one on a R34, it was pretty light, fitted well, and had a good finish. I want one for an R33 GTS-t facelift model. Can the facelift R33 GTS-t be altered to accept an R 33 GTR type bonnet? Thanks

Single turbo large Apexi turbo kit (RHX-6) on cast iron manifold for RB25 and RB26, dual drilled on the 3 port flanges that differ, so it fits both engines. I need turbo to exhaust manifold gasket (4 bolt rectangular, 73 x 33 mm hole spacing) and turbine housing to exhaust downpipe gasket (3 bolt fixing on about an 80 mm PCD with a 60 mm hole in it). The gaskets are multi layer stainless steel shim ones for the IHI remote wastegate turbo the kit uses. If anyone thinks they have any, or knows where to get them I can fax proper oultlines of them. Thanks.

About 280 KW at the back wheels.

GT3040R with .82 A/R on RB25 with mild Apexi hydraulic cams, big AFM, 550 injectors, stock throttle body arrangement, big FMIC, Power FC, fuel pump, rod bolts, 1.8 mm head gasket. What sort of flywheel BHP will this turbo efficiently support on cast iron HKS remote wastegate manifold? At the moment I am running 460 BHP at flywheel on Apexi cast iron single turbo, remote wastegate manifold with IHI RX-6 turbo (old Apexi RB25 kit). Will this be good for a bit more top end air fleo, yet still spool OK? Cheers.

Do you know / think this combo will clear the chassis in an R33 GTS-t, cos that's what I aim to fit it in. i went to great pains to find a CAST manifold as all the tubular ones we see in the Uk crack. maybe not too bad for road usage, but with the thermal stresses of long periods of WOT on track, they ALL seem to crack. Thanks for your patience with this

Yet another qustion, sorry On the HKS cast iron RB25 manifold what wastegate did it use, did it mount directly on the manifold, or on a riser adaptor, and are they still available? If it uses a riser adaptor can anyone post a few detailed (big) pics to me at [email protected] please? Many thanks.

What bodyshell is this in please? Did you have to alter the shell at all? I suspect the clue is in your ECR033 name, but not sure... Cheers, and thanks, I have an RB25 engine in the R33 GTS-t car at the moment, on an Apexi top moount cast iron manifold with RX-6 turbo and external gate. I am having issues with the wastegate pipe to cast manifold interface blowing gaskets, the manifold is thin at this point, the flange is only 2 bolted, and under circuit use at 1.4 bar boost it is sagging and even stainless multi shim gaskets are blowing out. I have made a stepped adaptor to try and cure this, but if that fails then I think I'll have to put my new HKS cast iron RB25 manifold on with a different turbo. It means all new piping of course, which is a PITA. I am making different fixes for the Apexi one on a regular basis though, which is a shame as it has good runner design and the RX-6 spools really well. Great info guys, here in the UK the cast manifolds are virtually unknown and sneered at, people seem to ptefer welding up cracked tubular ones on a weekly basis As an aside I believe the "Horsepower in a Box" mild steel steam pipe tubular manifolds are well respected in Oz? Is that right? Thanks again.

Is this on the RB26 GTR engine and manifold in an R33 GTR chassis? I have new cast iron RB26 HKS manifold and wastegate, and an RB25 one as well. I put the RB25 one on the RB25 engine in my R33 GTS-t chassis and it looked as if only a tiny compressor housing would clear. maybe the subtle differences in the RB26 HKS manifold allows a bigger housing? Have you actually fitted this combo yourself? Thanks, I need to be SURE a given turbo will fit before buying one, of course Am i likely to find anything to give an efficient 680 / 700 on this RB26 manifold, feeding an engine with Tomei 280 degree cams, ported head with stock valve sizes, stock RB26 plenum arrangement, all steel internals, 8.5 CR, on an M800 ECU? When you say T66 is this a Greddy turbo? Thanks, as i say, I need to be 100% on this! I also need to be able to return wastegate exhaust into the main downpipe because of track day noise issues. That looks relatively trivial I think. Thanks for the replies, anyone else running this manifold??

What's the biggest turbo anyone has successfully fitted to an HKS cast iron remote wastegate, low mount manifold please? Clearance for large compressor housings looks very tight... Car is R33 GTR Thanks.

I have grabbed a few hours today to start fitting the dual master cylinder set up I have made and servo removal on my GTS-t R33. If anyone's interested I have put some pics up at http://chriswilson.tv/bias_brakes/bias_brakes.html Thay are also at ftp://ftp.chriswilson.tv/ in the "bias_brakes" folder. Cheers. I'll post some more pics when the master cylinders arrive, hopefully tomorrow or Thursday.

Looking for advice on quiet (under 98 Db drive by at full throttle, on track, measured trackside) systems. I have tried a Trust / Greddy Power extreme II which made 102 Db, a doubling of the perceieved noise allowed, so no good at all, and nor is an HKS Hiper Silenced, with a similar noise level. It's the fairly large turbine size I am running, I guess, that's the issue. The exhuast that's on it is a bit ropey, and mild steel. No ID on it, obviously commercially made, but I have never seen one like it before, it came on the car as bought. I need to have a replacement for it soon, and on the new engine about to go in the turbine housing will be bigger, the capacity bigger, and a lot more cam and revs.... Do I need to make a custom system? Do you have noise issues in Oz? How do you meet them without killing too much power? Thanks.

As always, an admirable reply, thanks for your time

Has anyone any direct expetience, as in they have bought and fitted some? Where from and how much please? Any detailed pics and comments on fit and finish and what OE parts fit to the shell appreciated. Pics to [email protected] I have broadband, so size isn't a probelm, cheers.

I am making an adaptor plate to remove the servo and run dual master cylinders with adjustable bias bar on my R33 GTS-t. It has totally none stock discs and calipers, but I am dubious as to whether I will achieve the sort of light pedal effort I enjoy without a servo. I will move the push rod pivot point a little up the pedal, and see how it feels after playing with master cylinder sizes. Is anyone running such a set up over there? Cheers.

Here in the UK most of the very quickest Group N touring car R32 GTR's, in their heyday, ran 1000 plus pound inch front springs and around 700 lbs inch rears. They were fully caged, so the shells were a LOT stiffer than stock, but it seems to differ greatly from SK's findings, even given the big weight differences between RWD and 4WD cars.

Is there a phonetic search option.... ?

I use CP air tools (Chicago Pneumatic) and they do a range of miniature right angle drills. I am in England UK, so I have no idea where in Oz you can buy these, sorry.

Use an air drill, as someone else says, you need a right angle drill, the proper type of air drill will get in there easily. If you don't have air rent a compressor.

I want to get as much weight out of this barge as possible, but I think deleting PAS would be detrimental, it's just too front heavy for an unassisted rack, so I guess it wil have to stay. Thanks for the replies.

My bet is you will find one or more head to manifold studs broken, or the threads pulled out of the head. Probably broken ones though. Drill the manifold holes bigger, so the manifold can expand lengthwise without putting a shear load on the new studs. To get the broken bits out centre drill them (I made a guide plate to bolt on the good studs and a collet in a hole centred on the broken stud, to centre the drill bit automatically). Drill to a size less then the ID of the thread root, and to a size where you can tap in a splined (Torx) bit, with enough purchase to allow you unscrew the broken piece of stud. Buy genuine ones, don't use bits of sawn off set screws!!

Thanks, I suspected it would be too heavy with no PAS, but there is one guy here in the UK doing this, but he's either Englands strongest man, or he uses it for drag racing

I was wondering if I dare try and get rid of the PAS on an R33 GTS-t, for track usage? it's damned heavy at parking speeds without it, was wondering if it's practical once up to speed? I would try it without the pump belt on, but i really like to do a PAS removal properly by welding up the quill shaft in the rack, which is kind of irreversible, otherwise you get lost motion at the steering wheel, which gives a very unnerving feel to the steering. Cheers.

What exactly is the purpose of the tubular framework connecting an R33 GTR rear subframe mountings to the boot floor? It looks like an afterthought, made from bits of office chair leg, a right abortion, with no real torsional or linear strength. I dilligently fitted this affair to my R33 GTS-t, but having dons so I am now wondering if I have merely nailed on a bit of ugly extra weight? I have already modded the subframe to body shell mounts to a totally solid construction. The car is for track use. I have often wondered if the extra stiffening in a GTR shell, as opposed to a GTS-t was designed by the tea boy, and made from bits from the scrap bin, as a last minute attempt to add much needed torsional strength to a wet paper bag type bodyshell. Comments please? Does anyone REALLY know what this "thing" is supposed to achieve?

Thanks, any other comments guys?

What exactly is the purpose of the tubular framework connecting an R33 GTR rear subframe mountings to the boot floor? It looks like an afterthought, made from bits of office chair leg, a right abortion, with no real torsional or linear strength. I dilligently fitted this affair to my R33 GTS-t, but having dons so I am now wondering if I have merely nailed on a bit of ugly extra weight? I have already modded the subframe to body shell mounts to a totally solid construction. The car is for track use. I have often wondered if the extra stiffening in a GTR shell, as opposed to a GTS-t was designed by the tea boy, and made from bits from the scrap bin, as a last minute attempt to add much needed torsional strength to a wet paper bag type bodyshell. Comments please? Does anyone REALLY know what this "thing" is supposed to achieve?