Chris Wilson

How odd, I wish I was in Oz or NZ

My RWD gearbox is done, it's a Swedish made Tractive sequential dog box for my R33 GTS-t I used a modded auto box bellhousing and a concentric clutch release cylinder set up, to work on a Giken triple plate clutch and flywheel. Total weight of bellhousing, adaptor, slave cylinder and gearlever, with wiring and indicator box is under 37 kilos, I can get some more weight off the bellhousing, so I am pleased with that. The whole thing has been a joy to spec and purchase, has come with a proper installation manual, and a full pictorial and textual workshop manual on DVD. Even the gear lever is a work of art. If it works half as well as it looks, it should be great. The PPG kit was just too dear shipped to the UK, although this was very expensive i have a complete transmission, with an internal ratio and drop gear ratio choice, with excellent spares back up. http://www.chriswilson.tv/tractive/tractive.html

What is the angle from the vertical the RB26 engine in GTR's is canted over at? I measure between ten and eleven degrees, is there an official Nissan figure quoted anywhere? Thanks.

Anyone, getting desperate now ? Looking to fit the R34 GTR none V-Spec crown wheel and pinion in an R33 GTS-t housing, will it fit? Anyone got the bolt PCD's for the GTR crown wheel? Thanks.

If you had agood mappable ecu with spare outputs could you not add a re circulatory solenoid controlled BOV valve that leaked plenum air at the offending load / boost / throttle sites? I know it's a crutch, but haven't heard of this being done on the RB engine before.

I had an R33 GTR one apart and had the local propshaft firm convert it to circlip type joints, but I am in the UK. No doubt someone does a similar conversion for staked propshafts over there though?

I converted my R33 GTS-t from auto to manual, so had the whole pedal box out to fit the 3 pedal set up, and didn't remove the dash. I THINK I removed the steering column, or at least loosened it to allow me to gain better access. It was no big deal, took about 2 hours including hole sawing the bulkhead for the clutch master cylinder. I did remove the lower access panel of course.

Thanks, have now found the R34 GTR has a ratio that's suitable. Have started a new thread.

I need a definitive answer as to whether I can put an R34GTR CWP in an R33 GTS-t case on the R33 GTS-t Cusco LSD centre section already in there, and continue to use the R33 GTS-t output flanges and drive shafts. Doubt it's been done often, if at all, as with a normal GTS-t manual box the thing would probably be geared to have a top speed of over 200 MPH I am fitting a totally different gearbox (not a Nissan) and need to change the diff ratio to suit, and the R34 GTR one is the only one that's close to what I need, presumably because that model uses the Getrag gearbox with different internal ratios to the Nissan boxes. Thanks

As an addendum, I think the R34 GTR has a diff ratio of about 3.6 to 1, thta's the sort of thing I am after, but can you fit the r34GTR ceown wheel and pinion in an R33 GTS-t casing? I can't use the whole diff as the driveshaft side flanges won't fit in GTR side gears, and i can't use GTR drive shafts as they are too long. thanks again.

I currently have an R33 GTS-t auto diff CWP (4.36 to 1 from memory) in my R33GTS-t track car. I am changing to a different make of gearbox and need a different CWP ratio that will fit in the same type of diff casing, what are the options please? Thanks!

Before this turns into a bun fight, I did ask for a torque figure at the flywheel Units we are measuring in will help, I am in the UK and still work in Imperial (lbs / foot torque) so need to convert Cheers.

Any ideas on what sort of flywheel torque figure I might get from: RB26, stock bore and stroke, Tomei 280 degree 10.8 mm lift cams, pair of Garett 2860-10 turbos on ported stock manifolds, head ported on stock valve sizes, stock size ported TB's, Siemens 800 cc injectors, Tomei cooling gallery pistons, 8.5 to 1 CR, Tomei rods, steel crank, N1 block, mapped on both pump and 118 octane race fuels, running M800 Motec. I need to see what I need gearbox wise. Engine is going in a 2WD car. Thanks.

Beautiful!! Is there any reason you couldn't make one in steel, given a big enough lump of material? Here in the UK it's very hard to get decent line boring and honing done, they often end up a real pig's ear. How do you go on in Oz?

I'd be more concerned about the fairly hefty oil pump seal (front seal) wear groove and the chunks out of the seal journal. is that damage local to that one area? it looks like the crank's been badly stored or handled and has gotten chipped by bashing into other solid objects. If you run it I'd be sure the marks on the front edge of the oil seal journal are polished out on a lathe or crank grinder to stop them tearing the seal lips, plus I'd add a bit of spring tension on the pump seal to accommodate the wear groove.

I am in the UK and have built a circa 650 crank HP all steel RB26 engine to put in my R33 GTS-t track car. Previously running a 400 `ish flywheel HP RB25 engine in front of a stock R33GTS-t manual box and a Giken twin plate clutch, I now feel that I need to address the tired gearbox, which has synchros that are pretty shot and far from ideal ratios, plus a very slow 4 to 5 change that I feel could be its death knell if I rebuilt it and tried to run it again with much more torque through it. I was thinking of biting the bullet and using an auto box bellhousing to mount a Glebe (you won't have heard of them in Oz, I am in the UK and they are a small specialist race gearbox manufacturer here) 6 speed sequential dog box behind it, with a fair bit of custom work needed. They are rated to handle far more torque than I'll be creating. The cost would be hefty, the gearbox is about 6000 UK pounds, but should have a good residual value as it's used in a few high end serious race series over here. It's tempting to save some money though, and I thought I'd ask here for actual personal experiences of the PPG 5 speed dog kit in the stock R33 GTS-t casing? The car will be used for track days and a few proper races, is RWD only and will run 10 inch wide rear rims maximum, but on slicks, with a Nissan plate type LSD wound up fairly tight. It'll do zero drag racing, just a few (6?) race starts a year. Will this kit handle things reliably? Would I be better getting the uprated billet mainshaft? I am unsure if this can even be used in the RWD casing, it is a bit unclear on their site as to whether this is a 4WD GTR only item? How much are these kits in Oz if I can get a friend to buy it and ship it over to me here? Thanks for any info.

I am in England UK and looking for parts as below, but I don't know the addresses of Oz race car forums where I might usefully post a wanted ad, can anyone help please? Thanks. Something like http://www.racecarsdirect.com is the thing I am looking for, but in Australia or NZ. This is what I am looking for: ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: Anyone got useful new Honda Mugen MF308 Formula 3000 engine rebuild parts hanging around, eg, valve springs, valves, guides, pistons, piston rings, liners, crank and rod bearings, water pumps, oil pump kits, gasket sets et cetera? Please let me know what you have, where you are and a price guide, thanks. :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

They are made from chilled cast iron, so you are limited as to what you can do. If they were mine, and the budget precluded buying some more, then I'd take a very fine engineers stone and VERY CAREFULLY dress the edges of the fractures to make sure no rough edges can gouge the buckets. There should be no sign of more material being removed by the stone, just makes sure the very edges are dressed. They should, unless cracked invisibly, run OK like that. I have run worse when a replacement hasn't been available and a race engine had to get out there at short notice. When you renew them, if you run them as is, change the buckets on the the 2 damaged lobes. It's a shame they are chipped on a load bearing part of the lobes, you have lost maybe a 1/7 th of the lobe width, which puts the load up by that amount on both bucket and lobe, but it's an OHC engine and being Poncams run stock (soft) springs, so the loads are not great anyway. Good luck....

I want to use a mint used RB25 engine loom on my new RB26 engine, which is going in a previously RB25 engined, R33 GTS-t shell. Now the RB25 and its original loom (tatty) had the amplifiers built into the coils. The "new" mint RB25 loom I have is the other type, that uses a separate amplifier box between the cams. To use this loom I believe I need the amplifier box and the correct coil pack loom. Are the coil looms for the separate amplifier type still available new? Used ones all seem to have gone brittle with the heat cycling. I would then need a set of none amplified coils and the amplifier box itself, to complete this other setup, correct? Thanks.

I thought an image would help. These Siemens ones are a tight, perfect fit against the bosses of the stock rail, so I guess they'll be fine, no way can they lift anyway What I mean is the part of the body encircled in pink is hard and true against the stock rail injector bosses when the rail is bolted up, and the bottom of the injectors compresses the bottom seals adequately.

I want to use some Siemens 850 cc / minute injectors from http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/PartsJPEGs/...mens%203145.jpg These are turned down to match the head end seals, but although the feeds are a perfect fit in the stock rail there's no room for the top compression rubbers, the single ribbed ones that squash the injector into the bottom seal. Nonetheless they are a tight fit and the bottom seals are compressed. Anyone else running after market injectors without the top "compression" rubbers, which, I suspect, are for noise isolation anyway? Thanks. I like these as A: They are branded and B: They have published lag times and C: I have used their Pico style ultra short ones in other projects with great success also D: They are a sensible price. The Motec M800 is happy with these low resistance peak and hold type injectors, so no worries there.

Thanks for the help everyone, not been able to do much recently as I have been doing work on my Toyota turbo project, but have now got some further progress in with the Skyline engine. I have now finished the crank trigger wheel. I was told by Motec and others that the stock optical trigger, cam mounted, was inaccurate and unreliable, so opted, later than I had anticipated, to convert the engine to a proper toothed crank trigger reference wheel, and a separate cam driven, single toothed reference wheel trigger. I bought a commercially available, laser cut 36 less one toothed wheel from a UK company (www.Trigger-Wheels.com). It was incredibly heavy, as it was a solid 6mm thick piece of steel disc with just the teeth cut on it, and that bugged me I milled it out with with 12 windows in it, and made an alloy hub to concentrically mount it to the stock crank damper, being sure to mount it to the central hub of the damper, which is solidly attached to the crank nose, and not the outer, rubber damped sections, which would lead to movement and inaccuracy in reading the crank angle. The whole engine had previously been balanced, but luckily I had opted for the more expensive, each part balanced individually, approach, so the balancers now could just re-balance the damper and trigger wheel assembly on its own. It was 325 grammes out at 8000 RPM, and they balanced it to 35 grammes. I use a company called Wilkinson Dynamic Balancing for high end stuff, they are superb, and one of the very few companies that can do things like V10's and straight 5's properly. Every balance gets written certification and they know enough about engines not to *ugger something up by chewing material off daft places I am now making the support for the crank trigger sensor, and a plate to use the stock optical sensor casting to mount a cam trigger sensor. I also need to modify the cam pulley to take a single tooth, for the sensor to "read". I need to weld an oil drain in the sump, and the breather fittings to the cam covers, and fit the oil drain pipe to the head, and make up the drain hose. I had to buy an RB26 PAS pump, pulley wheel, and mounting and tensioning brackets, as the RB25 one I had was different and didn't line up, or have the same number of belt grooves as the RB26 crank damper. I managed to get a low mileage, used set up from Abbey Motorsport for a very fair price. They have helped with some other odds and sods, too, as have RB Motorsport, these are UK companies, by the way, which is where I live. Wilkinson Dynamic Balancing are at http://www.wdbltd.co.uk/ A photo of the completed trigger, before painting, is below, further pics at http://www.gatesgarth.com/RB26 Race Engine7/trigger.html

I am rebuilding an RB25DET engine that has a pair of Apexi hydraulic cams in it. I am putting it on Motec management and would like to remove the VVTi cam mechanism and maybe fit a conventional adjustable cam pulley on the now adjustable cam side. Has anyone done this before, and if so, would they share their experiences please?

I am putting an RB26 engine into my R33 GTS-t shell. I have a 4WD RB26 sump, with a Trust sump extension on it, and all the front diff casting cut off, and the drive shaft holes welded up. (I'll try and post a pic of it). When I compare it to the stock RB25 pressed steel sump pan the RB26 one looks deeper where it would sit atop the X-Member. I am not sure if it will even go in the R33 GTS-t shell with it on. To save me messing about trying a scrap block with this RB26 sump on in the rolling chassis, has anyone tried this? If it won't fit waht are my options for sump that will fit the RB26 block and the R33 GTS-t shell, and what oil pick up can you use? Ideally something baffled for track usage. Thanks.

Engine should make 600 flywheel HP (looking for an endurance spec, all steel on 2860-10's, running Motec M800 ECU. I have a set of known good coils with built in amplifiers from my RB25 engine and was hoping to use those. I believe the Motec will trigger them directly. Thanks for the replies.