B0oStEr

Damn I bought one last month for $400 You can put me down for a plug though. Thanks

It is the same combination split dump/ frontpipe that batmbl sells. It seems to open about 60 degrees before it hits the flange which may be further than the actuator allows it to open so I think that it will be ok. My main concern is that the flap partially obstructs the wastegate outlet hole in the flange but if this was a problem then I doubt HKS would use this design as they do.

Wouldn't there be enough threads about bodykits, paint and trim etc to have a seperate 'Bodyshop' forum?

I'm trial fitting a split dump to my 2530, before they both go in my car, to see how they fit up. At the moment the flap hits the dump flange limiting it's movement but it may be opening enough. Can anyone tell me how many degrees the wastegate shaft needs to rotate as the flap fully opens?

LH drive dashboard?

They shouldn't hit the body or give you 16deg caster. Are you sure the arms are the right way around? Is that 2 deg. camber or 2 deg. negative camber?

Need a good door complete or shell. Prefer silver but any colour will do. Can pickup from Bris. to Coffs. Thanks

If your tyres are the correct profile they should be the same rolling diameter as the stock tyres and therefore not affect the speedo reading. If they are oversize I think there is an electronic kit (Jaycar?)that can vary the speed sensor output to correct the speedo. I could be wrong. Do a search.

Do these come with a pair of chassis stands for that price?

The stock GTT rims are 17x7.5" 40mm offset so they should fit. Just make sure they clear the caliper because they will be 2mm further in than stock.

Thanks SK Marco cleared up a few things about my konis. Before koni released the specific models for the rwd skylines Top Performance adapted the gtr ones to suit. The valving remained unchanged. Apparently the new gts specific ones still use the same valving but they now consider the rear ones too stiff and when they import new stock they will be a softer spec. They have revalved some already and it's supposed to improve the ride and handling noticeably. Has anyone here had them revalved? Is it worth the $220?

Lately, every page I go to on SAU I get a "done but with errors on page" warning in my status bar. Sometimes it seems to slow things down. I'm using XP with IE and my security setting is medium. What can I do to fix it?

Thanks for that. I don't think the rails have been bent. I'll only worry about putting it on a chassis aligner if the wheel alignment isn't in spec. Shame about your rims. It'll cost you a lot more than $1000 by the time you replace them.

I had it on a hoist yesterday and I can't see any damage to the chassis. The crossmember is spread where the lower control arm was bent back but should push back easy enough. The lower control arm is very bent and almost torn from the bush. That is most of the obvious suspension damage but the upper arm has a scratch where it closed on the upright due to the impact and the paint on the upright has flaked at the corresponding point so I guess it's been bent slightly but it isn't obvious. I've located a good second hand upright, knuckle and hub assembly for $50 so I'll replace it just on suspicion and that also replaces the stubaxle. I've found a guard in same colour so that will save some $$$. All up the bits will cost $385 plus a wheel alignment so it looks like the main cost will be replacing the volk racing two piece rims and some new tyres. He'll be running on the old stockies until he pays me back and saves up again.

How much for a complete bolt on suspension assembly for the left hand front? Struts and brakes aren't required just everything else.

6" kerb 40-50kph almost straight-on with the brakes locked. The steering now pulls hard to the right. I had a bit of a look at the damage today. It definitely looks wrong. The camber is the wrong way and the wheel looks deep under the guard. Something is very bent. I'll get it up on a hoist asap to see what bits I might need to fix it. How can you tell if the knuckle and upright have been bent? Is this likely? What about the stub axle? Do these bend easily? Maybe I should replace the lot to be safe.

Sorry, can't pick up from Sydney.

bump

Copped a bit of kerb damage. Need lhs front guard, prefer silver but any would be ok. Also need the plastic liner, lower control arm and swaybar linkarm. It's hard to say but we might also need other suspension components when the damage is inspected properly. The car is needed back on the road asap. Can pickup between Coffs and Brisbane.

My son kerbed his 32 in the rain tonight. He says he swerved to miss a dog but I think maybe he was just trying to wag his tail. Anyway I had to replace the broken strut bar and volk rim on the side of the road in the middle of a thunderstorm so he could drive it home. I don't think the impact was extremely heavy and most of the damage seem to be due to the strutbar letting go. I could see the lower control arm is badly bent and the swaybar link arm is now banana like. The guard is all bent up and the plastic liner is ripped. The front bar, fmic and piping don't appear damaged. What other damage should I look for or expect to find?

I've refitted the konis/kings using the newly cut +37mm top circlip grooves. The guard to wheel centre height is now 345+/-5mm all round. It was 310mm so riding close to the bumpstops. Ride is a bit better now but still feels a bit jiggly. Are the gtr koni sports stiffer than the ones for the gtst? Mine are 8041 1147, 8041 1148 but I've been told they should be 8041 1336, 8041 1337 The kings springs are rated at 175 lb/in front and 155lb/in rear which is not that much stiffer than stock yet it feels much stiffer. I have the shocks set at their softest setting but it feels as though springs and shocks are not working together properly. I'll try setting the shocks firmer but it seems to me that this might only make the mismatch worse.

If they have dish just make sure they clear the front caliper. I bought some that didn't

If you can use a soldering iron why don't you have a go at repairing your old one? I did mine a couple of weeks ago and it transformed the car. No more black smoke, it no longer stalls or hiccups and I get another 100km a tank. You just cut through the outside edge of the sealant around the cover panel and carefully pry it off. Unsolder the metal shield on top of the circuit board. It's best to remove the solder with some desoldering wick. The problem with mine was where the socket pins are soldered to the circuit board the solder had cracked. Probably from someone wriggling the plug to remove it. Just heat where the pins cross with the tip of an iron to melt the solder and add a bit or fresh resin-cored solder to each joint. I also did a blanket resolder of the whole board, while I had it apart, just to be sure there were no dry joints but I think it would have been ok if I hadn't. Resolder the shield and reseal the cover with sikaflex or silicon and your done.

I've fitted some koni yellows and kings springs to my r32gtst. Due to the konis being modified gtr ones the available adjustment of the platform height can only just capture the spring with little or no preload. The car is also too low (310mm guard to wheel centre) and the ride is noticeably "jiggly". I'm having new higher circlip grooves cut for the spring platform on all the shocks to raise the ride height. The top groove should raise the ride height about 37mm and give the springs about 40mm of preload. Will the ride be affected noticeably (firmer?) by the increase in preload? The stockies seem to have about 40mm but is 40mm too much preload for the kings springs?

It's got 70mm clearance at a few points on the exhaust. I've got 140mm all round stock bar and sills which looks tough but I'm going to rework it this arvo to give the exhaust 100mm.