B0oStEr

I need these parts and clutch line as well as any manual specific trims such as gear boot surround etc. Pickup Northern NSW or SE Qld Thanks.

I might take the driver's side 'A' pillar trim if it's black with no cracks. Is the a/c compressor a climate control one? Any chance of pics?

Does the generic trim push in or do you have to glue it down?

You might be right about it being best to use a new rubber but the old one doesn't leak so I was hoping there is a suitable moulding that will press into the original groove in the rubber. I'll take it down to the local O'briens Glass place and see if they have any ideas.

Is it easy to replace the windings without having to regas the system?

Geez $500 I think $170 seems a bit steep. I noticed this problem starting when I was buying the car. The guy at the yard said they had had some repaired using a commodore moulding but he wasn't sure what model. It was barely noticeable then but it sure is ugly now.

The press in trim around the rear windscreen of my 32 sedan has dried out, hardened and shrunk. It's now too short to fit around the corner of the screen. The outside edge of the rear windscreen rubber has also started to peel off. This doesn't make the windscreen leak but it looks ugly. I think it needs a new slightly wider push in moulding trim that will completely cover the rubber. I've seen this happen to other 32s. What have you guys done to fix it?

Coilovers? Is the LSD stock?

You got rid of the a/c but did you get rid of the heater core?

About $90 from Nissan.

It seems to me that your intended mods would be roughly equal to the mods I'm doing to my R32 although my pockets mightn't be as deep as yours. The only HKS item being my 2nd hand 2530. The choice of turbo pretty much determines what power you can expect and what else needs to be upgraded to achieve it. I've had plenty of time to plan while I've been saving up for the bits and pieces. I think 200-220 rwkw would be a reasonable goal. I'm using gt2530 catback k&n panel filter hybrid fmic Bosch 040 pump R33gtr 440cc injectors pfc and boost controller splitfire coils ngk iridium plugs I might buy one of batmbl's fine looking splitdumps and SS cat to fit with my turbo. If the stock AFM runs out of resolution when it's being tuned I'll fit a Z32 one but it shouldn't be needed for 220rwkw

It would be a bit of a coincidence for the clutch and the display to go at the same time if the problems are not related because the climate control hasn't had a problem for two years, until now. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the climate control?

Try a different brand of fuel maybe.

It doesn't matter if it's not a good one so long as the electric clutch is OK.

Thanks guys but I just want stock ones

The a/c compressor clutch fuse keeps blowing in my R32. At the same time this problem started my control unit display has started to black out. If I turn it off, then back on it lights up again. Is the display going out because it senses a problem with the clutch circuit? I've pulled the plug from the compressor clutch to see if the fuse still blows. If it doesn't blow I think the clutch must be shorting. If it still blows then the problem must be in the wiring. Has anyone else had this problem?

I need a pair of 297mm rotors to suit an R32/33 GTSt. Must have reasonable wear left on them.

Every BATMBL split dump I've seen has a dividing 'tongue' to seperate the turbine outlet from the wastegate section of the stock RB20/25 turbo. The HKS turbos RB20/25 bolt-on turbos already have seperated turbine outlet and wastegate section so the 'tongue' on the BATMBL dump flange has to be ground off so it will fit on an HKS turbo. It sounds to me like the mechanic is saying your dump doesn't have the dividing 'tongue'. Does it have one?

I only need clutch lines now Thanks

Anyone got one?

Do you have pedals, clutch master cylinder and lines, gearboot surround, instrument cluster, cluster surround?

It's my understanding that the fuelpump speed control switches the pumps earth from direct to the chassis to earth through the resistor so that it reduces pump speed and noise when full capacity isn't required eg at idle and possibly at cruise. If the pfc in the r32 doesn't operate the speed control then the decision to ditch it has been made for me. All I need to know is how to wire my 040. Should I run a new earth from pump directly to the chassis? Should I upgrade the power wire by using a relay and running a new wire from the battery?

Browny Do you have a wiring diagram showing wirre colours?

................SOLD................. Thanks Samantha

As i said these offsets were an estimate based on clearances on my sedan which is slightly narrower in the rear. You would need to roll the gaurds to run 9" x +38 on a sedan.