Emrarrr

Nice cars! Here are a few of my new S2, yet to be registered! I want to put some fatter wheels on her as soon as I can afford it!

Hey Maybe resurrecting a dead thread but there are a few things I am chasing to get my s2 r33 over the pits. Can buy but would it cool to borrow for a day considering I am a poor ass at the moment so if anyone can help pls let me know! Radiator shroud Airbag steering wheel (can swap for aftermarket steering wheel with boss kit) Viscious fan clutch (will need to buy this anyway) I think there are a few more things so will need to have a better look. I know it is strange borrowing a radiator shroud for a day or whatever haha but if i can't find any to buy it will def be a goer! Thanks

Hey I am chasing a few parts for my S2 R33 rb25det to get her over the pits as soon as possible. If you have any of the following for a decent price please let me know-fit S2 or if certain S1 parts are compatible that is fine! Viscious fan clutch Radiator shroud Airbag steering wheel Possibly will need a new immobiliser if my auto watch is screwed (any cheapy will do!) Eventually need a timing belt & water pump kit if anyone has them My car currently has an aftermarket italian steering wheel with boss kit which I will swap for the airbag steering wheel if interested. Feel free to PM me or message me on 0405 842 726. Thanks Em

Whoops meant waste a tune on the ecu cos it's shit, will def save up for a good aftermarket computer and get her tuned! Anyway turns out it totally was the piece of crap unichip! Glad I looked there, my other Skyline did the exact Same thing under boost and was an ecu earth. Removed the unichip and re soldered wires back to stock ecu and she drives beautifully!!thanks for all ur help and suggestions

lol scotty yeah I want to get rid of it, don't want to really waste a tune on it. I figure I will have the work out which wires have been spliced or cut and put them back into my stock ecu? ugh annoying

Update: I have noticed it has a unichip piggy back ecu, is it likely this is causing the misfire under boost???

I am having a similar problem at the moment, misfires under boost. When was your timing belt changed? Do you hear any tapping coming from the timing belt cover when idling? Just a thought! Also could the BOV be stuck open? Cylinder pressure? Boost controller? My car improved heaps since rerouting some vac lines to BOV, fixing some shitty hoses, removing crappy manual boost tee and changing AFM. I'm going to change the coil packs tonight but if that fails I am going to look into getting the timing belt done as there is a bit of a tap and it's coming up to change time! Hope you sort it soon

Thanks I reckon she is pretty hot it's worth more but he had too many cars and a newborn so he just needed it gone. Good thinking guys! I found out it was actually a degrease! Why wouldn't u cover up that area though? It's driving so much better and haven't even replaced coil packs or exhaust yet!

It had some sort of bath!

Hey Sinista, Thanks for the info! Haha yes student at the moment so relatively tight budget but all my money ends up going on the cars so if it needs to be fixed it will usually be done! Have a service history with log book etc it came over from NSW so have the dates for belt etc. Chassis is nice and straight surprisingly minimal rust it's quite clean. I managed to replace spark plugs but its going to need new coil packs considering they were submerged in water and muck. I use liquid moly on all my cars so will be putting some of that through. I don't like the BOV I want to remove that for now and just put it back to stock as will need it for pits anyway. Ran OBD no codes which is boring, other parameters seem good but not relying on that! Coolant system seems good but will flush anyway, oil looks good etc. the car was sitting for about a year only driven every month or so. Mods are basic just the crappy rusty looking blitz BOV, boost tee (not a fan will be removing that), HKS rear muffler, cusco strut braces, apexi air intake, aftermarket suspension- mainly cosmetic. Since cleaning throttle body and pipes the car will start straight away idle for a second and die. Going to have to see if I put a hose on the wrong way or something- could mega vac leaks cause that?? A lot of the hoses are suspicious!! I will take some photos now of how the BOV and boost tee have been set up its all weird to me as my other one was completely stock.

as for how the sludge got there...rusty water plus maybe leaking rocker cover gasket?

I pulled the spark plugs and there is no water or oil or anything down there so that's good right? It seems like water accumulated on top as there was mouse crap too and a cockroach leg lol but yeah nothing under spark plugs

Hey I just bought another Skyline- an R33 Series 2 Mspec manual for very cheap (even suspiciously too cheap) due to un ergo, hole in exhaust (came with new full stainless steel one), misfire at boost problem which they said prob coil packs and interior dash lights and indicators don't work. Picked it up tonight and of course as was cheap I figured there will be a fair few problems I would need to sort out which is of course to be expected. Drives great except splutters and chokes itself under boost. So far all the intake pipes and throttle body are absolutely filthy and it stinks like contaminated oil where the throttle body connects and the a lot of the hoses are bad and cracking which is all fine I can deal with that but what worries me is this- Every single spark plug hole has heaps of brown sludge and water in there a decent amount as well! The coil packs look like ass so of course will replace those and the spark plugs. Firstly, what is the best way to get the water and crap out before I pull the plugs? And does the sludge and crap sound like a head gasket??? Please tell me there is something else it could be! I will take some pics soon! Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks Em

You guys are awesome thanks for the help! I will reply to any questions in a sec so that maybe it will help just thought I would quickly mention what I have done and another thing or two I have noticed. Last night I pulled all the air intake out and re did the hoses and put good clamps etc and its still doing it. I can still hear this whistle sort of almost electronic whistle sound when it spools up my stock BOV is pretty loud for an auto but checked line etc. I've got the idle to drop which is good and pulled TPS as per manual. When I unplug brown plug on aac unit the revs change so that's good but when I pull the purple plug on the unit nothing happens? Does that mean anything? Also it makes this funny sound like you know the sound when u put the car in reverse its a high pitched whining winding noise? It does that when accelerator depressed and used to sort of rev on its own? Wondering if that could be related? If it is the auto trans I will be doing a manual conversion sooner so not too bad!

Haven't checked with timing light just what showed up using OBD which was 20, not sure if meant to be 20 or 15??

Oh and cal when using ecu talk to did register throttle open and closed etc but is there anyway I can find out if the ecu is registering that it is in neutral?

Hey Cal is the bottom brown plug the TPS and the grey one for the auto? I actually got 3.8 to 4.0 volts when tested I actually don't think there was anything on grey but need to double check. Thing is sometimes the car dies when the bottom brown plug is pulled put out and other times the car stays on? Also wondering if it has something to do with the trans? I can't seem to set idle properly with adjustment screw it doesn't seem to change too much? Hey Superben The idle fluctuates which I could see on ecu talk but it doesn't seem to hunt on the cars gauge? At one point I did set idle too high because the screw seems to be retarded! Am I supposed to pull the TPS when doing this? Thinking ECU now doesn't have control over idle but why only in neutral/park? I am pretty sure have vac leak still locating but would this only happen in park?? Thanks for answers!

Oh and when using ECUtalk it seems as though my vehicle speed sensor may be having problems as it doesn't display any speed?

Hey Guys, I have previously posted a thread in regards to my series 2 r33 and very rough idle problem. I am seriously going to end up in a mental asylum! I have been trying to figure this out for so long and have checked and replaced so many things! I decided to grab an OBD scanner and I used ECUtalk which show the gauges in real time and this is what I discovered. When in Neutral or Park the timing fluctuates erratically between 0 degrees and 20 degrees?? As soon as I put the car into park it sits steadily on 20 (auto trans). Does anyone know what would cause this?? In drive it is fine just not in P or N. The idle also jumps around 700-850 constantly. When I hear the car miss on idle the timing fluctuates harder so it has to be related. But why only in P and N?? Prior to looking at the software I changed O2 sensor, coolant temp sensor, cleaned AAC/IACV, cleaned throttle body, replaced AFM, checked vac leaks but still some keep appearing so maybe it is that??, did coil power test, spark plugs (bit dirty), etc etc. Maybe it is the throttle position sensor for auto? If anyone has any idea what the relationship between the trans and timing is I would love ur help!! thanks Em

Pm sent

Is there already a thread on the forums about interchangeable parts?

Awesome cheers!

Argh really?! That would be awesome! Haha I get so excited over car parts it's weird