PlasticStan

Don't do it! Will the money you save pay for an engine rebuild? Anyway your fuel economy will be better with 98 so you'll not be saving as much as you think. $1.38 per litre! Bloody hell that's cheap, here in the UK petrol has just reached £1.00 a litre for 98 RON, which is about AU$2.39 !!!!!! Cheap petrol and great weather, you guys have it all

yes

You already asked this in the general maintenance forum! <_<

I wouldn't worry about what the afr is at idle. Under load and boost is a different matter and yours is 11:1, most people tune for about 12:1 so yours is running slightly rich. Do you have a programmable ecu as leaning it out a little will gain you more power.

The Rb25 doesn't have an intake temperature sensor. My advice would be chuck it in the bin, and tune the car the proper way. Increase intake and exhaust efficiency to help the engine breath. Increase turbo boost. And get a mappable ecu to tune the fuel and ignition maps for more power.

If you have a speed delimiter, then this will be the problem. You will have to wire the Blitz Power Meter to the speed signal before it get's converted by the delimiter.

There is a loop of wire near the back of the engine on the ignition wiring loom, although you can pick up stray signals when hooked up here. I find the best way is to take the coil off no.1 spark plug, place a plug lead from the spark to the coil, and put the pickup on this. You get a much better signal from an HT lead than trying to pickup the signal from the LT side of the circuit. Also remember to have the engine warmed up and throttle position sensor unplugged to ensure idle is at 650rpm and the ecu is at static base timing. i'm curious why you would want to retard the ignition and lose power? Are you getting detonation? Ignition timing should be 15deg +/- 2deg so 17deg is within factory specifications. Cheers, Simon.

Wrong, EVERY R33 i've ever seen has all four rear lights wired up from the factory.

The ECU doesn't output a 5V signal on pin 7, it's an open collector output that is grounded to generate the rpm signal. Cheers. Simon.

BK type plugs (ISO) are too short, you need BCP plugs. BK plugs are ISO standard which is shorter than the Japanese standard BCP type plugs. :spcartman

100k, don't make me laugh, :bs!: :spcartman Simon.

Make sure the front wheels are pointing straight ahead, and then disconnect the battery to reset the ECU. :spcartman Simon.

If you change the AFM, the load points in the fuel map and ignition map will change won't they? If they do then it will need to be re-mapped.

Because with intake and exhause mods, the engine breathes more efficiently. This means your running in a different part of the fuel and ignition maps than Nissan thought a 'normal' car would be in. So in these areas the ignition is retarted and fuel increased for safety reasons.

And where would the power for this come from? It would take more power from the engine than it would generate because of losses due to friction.

Like Nissan have said, it sounds like the coolant sensor. When the engine is cold, more fuel is added by the ecu, to help it start. When the engine is warm this extra fuel is not needed, but if the coolant sensor isn't working the ecu will still think the engine is cold, and the extra fuel stops the engine from firing up. Cheers. Simon.

I thought you were talking complete bollocks, but I gave you the benefit of the doubt last time, but your last post is completely wrong! Leaded fuels contained far more carcinogens than unleaded fuel. Leaded fuel exhaust emmisions contain carbon monoxide and unburt hydrocarbons. So you're wrong saying the cat removes pollutants not present in leaded fuel. A catalytic convertor removes carbon monoxide and unburt hydrocarbons, converting them to carbon dioxide and water. The British goverment NEVER considered going back to leaded fuels. Leaded fuels pollute the atmosphere and are much more harmful than unleaded fuels. My car without cat passes all current emissions tests, and so is perfectly legal in Britain.

How do you get lead in your exhaust emmisions by removing the cat? Here in the UK the first thing anyone does is remove the cat, helps turbo spool up much quicker and makes more bhp at higher revs. You may lose a bit of power at low revs when the turbo isn't spinning because of the loss of back pressure, but it will be minimal. I couldn't feel any loss in power when I removed my cat.

I had the same thing on mine, turned out to be the coils. They are prone to cracking which allows the spark to jump to the engine block instead of going through the spark plug. Simon

shoey, What was causing the big drop in power over 5000rpm? I have the same type of mods as you and my car is suffering from the same problem, so I am looking at getting an SAFC fitted soon. Was it running too rich or was it a problem with detonation? Cheers Simon.

Mine came from fredgates7. :flamed:

Did you plug the CAS (Cam Angle Sensor) back in. This will prevent the engine starting if it is not plugged in. Simon.

And the award for most insane post of the year goes too...... If you block the wastegate your turbo will have no boost limit, and bye bye turbo. :spcartman

Sounds like your coils are stuffed, had the same on my S1 R33.

This is a copy of a thread I have posted on gtr.co.uk, hope you find it useful. The hazard warning and rear window demist buttons have never lit up in my car, so I thought I would take a look at them tonight and replace the bulbs in them. Took about 90 minutes to do, and it must be the most fiddly job I've done yet on the skyline! I took a few photos while the switches were out so you can see how it's done. The hazard warning switch has one bulb in it and it should light up when you turn on the headlights. Once you have the dashboard out and the switch removed, lever off the top cover (see pic 1) with a small screwdriver, be careful because there is a spring and a small piece of plastic for the latching mechanism. Now you can separate the button from the rest of the switch. Pic 2 shows all the separate pieces of the switch. The bulb lives in a grey piece of rubber that you can just slide off the lamp terminals. Once removed you need to unloop the lamp wires from the lamp cover, I used the end of a sharp knife to pull the wires until there was enough free to pull the bulb out. Now remove the coloured lamp cover from the old bulb and place it on your new one (60mA 12V). Thread the wire through the lamp cover and loop them back through the holes for the bulb terminals. Slide back onto lamp terminals. Putting the switch back together was the trickiest bit. The easiest way is to take the top cover and line it up over the button and push it straight down. Make sure the latch mechanism is lined up the same as in pic 1. Turn it over and do the same with the bottom part of the switch, remember to put the spring back in first though. (Not like me!) The rear window demist switch is exactly the same, except it has two bulbs, blue when the headlights are on and orange when the demister is on. PART II: How to fix light in electric window switch: 1. Prize off cap inside door handle, and remove screw. The trim is now just held on with 2 clips and should just lift away. 2. Unclip switch from wiring harness. Now remove 4 screws holding switch onto door trim. 3. Prize cap off window lock button. 4. Remove three screws from back of switch. 5. Lift white plastic cover enough, so that you can use a small screwdriver to prize it over the clips 6. Remove screw holding black connector to pcb. Now for the tricky bit. The bulb can't be removed without taking the black connector off. The easiest way would be to desolder it, or you can try and unclip the connector (Not easy! Involves lots of swearing and brute force ). First unclip the back of the connector and lift away. 7. Lever the two clips free. Now this bit is very tight and you have to bend the connector up a little so that the cover will slide off. 8. Now you can finally get the bulb out, just give the plastic holder a twist and it'll come out. Unwrap the wire of the old bulb from the holder and replace with 60mA 12V bulb. Swap over blue cover. Putting it back together should be easy! Just read this backwards Cheers, Simon.