PlasticStan

AFAIK you can't, the stock BOV leaks all the time, even at idle. So you will never be able to get the car to run with the re-circ pipe disconnected. If you really want a VTA BOV then you will have to replace the stock BOV with an aftermarket BOV.

320km's from a full tank isn't that good either. I managed to get just under 500km's from a tank full by driving off boost for the whole tankful. Normally I get about 300km's~400km's from a tank. This is on an R33 GTS25T, with GT2530 550cc injectors and PowerFC.

Funny, mine does exactly the same. I first noticed this over a year ago. Checking the radiator today, the water level is still right at the top, but the expansion tank is still empty. ???? Will be doing coolant flush and change when installing my new turbo, so I'll replace the rad cap aswell.

That is not right, the ignition amplifier is built into each coil on a series 2, not the ECU. The ignition output stage of a series 1 and 2 ECU are exactly the same. That is why there is only one version of the PFC for the R33 RB25DET. I would be checking the ECU for fault codes, also check that the knock sensors are working and plugged into the ecu.

Yes, you are right. The R32 use a Titania oxygen sensor, this is different to the Ziconia sensors used on other Skylines, and is not interchangeable. No wonder people are having problems on R32's if you're using the wrong type of sensor.

The scan tool will only show what timing value the ECU is using from it's ignition v load map. You will still need to use a timing light to set the ignition timing using the CAS so that the ECU is getting the right timing value from the CAS. I find the best way to use the timing light, is to remove the coil from spark plug #1, use a short HT lead between the plug and the coil, and clamp the pickup around this. You can use the small loop of wire near the back of the engine on the ignition wiring loom, but I find that you pick up too much interference using this. Anti-Clockwise rotation of the CAS advances ignition timing, clockwise retards ignition timing.

They do, . NVCS as standard on the RB25DET. And then a more advanced version on the RB25DET NEO.

I've had my stock BOV blocked off because it was faulty, leaking boost all the time. It hasn't caused any problems with stalling or idle.

If the old battery was faulty, it would always be getting charged by the alternator. The alternator would be putting load on the engine, so with the new battery, the load on the engine from the alternator is less, so more power. Lean afr's when you close the throttle is normal. With a closed throttle the ecu cuts the fuel injectors, so there is no fuel so you get lean afr's, nothing to worry about.

All been mentioned before but here are mine: Parasite Eve Silent Hill Resident Evil 1 & 2 Final Fantasy VII, VIII & IX were OK but not as good Gran Turismo Xenogears

The test is done by connecting a pressure gauge to the spark plug hole on each cylinder. The engine is then turned over and the maximum pressure in each cylinder will be recorded on the gauge. The more wear in things like piston rings, valve stem oil seals, cylinder bore etc. the more air will leak from the cylinder giving a lower pressure in the cylinder. It is possible to do the test wrong, you have to have the throttle fully open and the engine oil up to working temperature to get the best readings.

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My Greddy gauge shows just under -500mmHg which is -9.7 psi or -0.67 bar.

Just use your right foot, much cheaper than an ebc.

He can't run less than 14psi because that is what spring is in the wastegate, doesn't matter what you set the boost controller to. If it was me I would go for a PowerFC with some larger injectors, much safer than running everything maxed out. The problem with the SAFC is it doesn't allow any tuning of ignition, infact because you're messing with the AFM voltage, it can result in too much ignition advance, meaning it's always a comprimise with tuning the afr's. Also I'm pretty sure the ceramic exhaust wheel on the turbo would be haveing a very hard time if your running at 14psi all the time. Maybe you should consider a turbo rebuild as well.

I don't believe this was just an isolated incident due to Brent being away at Christmas. I had similar problems as you guys last august, parts not arriving, then no contact from Brent, and no response to e-mails. Eventually was informed that items had been sent to the wrong address! E-mailing Nengun seems to be a waist of time as I never got a reply from Brent until I filed a complaint with PayPal. Brent then cancelled my acount so that I couldn't order anything from him again, although that was a waist of his time because I would never use Nengun again anyway.

Yeah you're right. Oil should be at least 80degC. You can get a thermostat that will only let oil through to the cooler when it reaches 80degC so that the oil isn't too cold.

Turbo oil seals. If you have a catch can then it can't be blowby from the pistons, that only leaves the turbo as the source of the oil.

Not quite, they have a switch in them so that when the cat reaches a certain temperature, a light is turned on. That is all.

First off forget about the BOV, that is a completly different vacuum hose. In your picture, the green hose is the return from the solenoid, which is where the air that is bled off is returned to the intake. The purple hose is the wastegate actuator, the boost tap goes in this hose. Make sure you block off the green hose, so there is no air leak as this will cause running problems. Done properly it should look exactly like the picture Lazy-Bastard posted.

Externally the series 1 and 2 turbos are identical. Internally the series 1 has an alloy compressor wheel, and the series 2 has a plastic one. They both have the ceramic turbine.

It's an electronic gauge right? So what does it read when switched on, it should read 0 when the sender is open to the atmosphere. Every electronic gauge i have seen returns to the bottom of the gauge when off, i.e. -1 bar on a boost/vacuum gauge.

Usual place is in the wire between alternator and starter motor. You need to use the same gauge wire and run this from alternator/starter motor into the cabin, and make sure you use good quality connections, you don't want them coming loose and earthing to the body work IMO it's just as useful to fit a voltmeter, and it's a hell of a lot easier. Still lets you know if your alternator is charging the battery which is all you really need to know.

The ecu doesn't output a volatage on the rev counter output, it is an open collector that is pulsed to ground in time with the engine timing pulses.

The Apexi PowerFC is the cheapest option, all the other ECU cost loads more. If you import from Japan you should be able to get one for about £400. Try www.nengun.com or www.greenline.jp. As for mapping that will cost about £300-£400 pounds. It's a good ECU (I have one on my R33) for the price and should give some good results once mapped with your new turbo. I've just been out in the snow and the roads haven't been gritted, it's a nightmare in a RWD Skyline with 300bhp Couldn't get above 15mph.