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GTofuS-T

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Posts posted by GTofuS-T

    RB25DET engine rebuild, MaXpeedingRods con rods

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    12 minutes ago, Zeus33 said:

    I spoke to the manufacturer in China about who there rods are sold to in Australia and the amount of high-end company names that came up was a bit of a shock. Paying for the name these days.

    not necessarily... there's more to the chain than manufacture >> sell... big names who have built up a reputation of quality and reliability will undoubtedly have some level of quality control in place that the cheaper alternatives don't. This is why you'll see a wider range of people with bad AND good results with cheaper options, as they sell what they purchase, so it's just luck of the draw. However a company with good QC will identify and hopefully scrap a portion of their inventory and have to absorb the cost of those goods that don't meet their standards as well as the cost to conduct the QC tests and so what they do sell costs more.

    • Like 1

    Are newer cars worth owning and keeping?

    in General Automotive Discussion

    Posted

    6 hours ago, junkie said:

    Other thing I forget to mention, new cars are generally quite well sorted in stock form so you are not buying a modding platform that will need an instant pile of work like you did back in the 90s

    Wheels - subjective, wheels are about taste, most OEM alloys these days look like shit

    Tyres - consumable

    Exhaust - subjective, every new 86, golf, mercs i've seen on the road has aftermarket exhaust that sounds like shit

    Front Mount - it still happens

    Moar boost - said no one with a turbo ever, it still happens

    Suspension - it still happens

    Brakes - depends on application

    Audio - very valid these days

    Seats - subjective still running OEM R33 seats, nothing wrong with them

    List goes on

    none of these were required on brand new 90's cars at the time either... do you think your Fiesta will not need these in 25 years?

    Are newer cars worth owning and keeping?

    in General Automotive Discussion

    Posted

    Really depends, are you buying a car to end all future car purchases (i.e. expecting it to last) or flipping every 2 to 3 years, and by new do you mean off the lot smells like ass it's so new or 2 to 3 year old ex-warranty?

    What we don't truly know is how much engineering has been stripped out of new cars to maintain financial viability (or to add planned obsolescence), and will any of the "new" cars still be comparably reliable to a stockish 25 year old Nissan when they reach the same vintage.

    I'm curious to see what the next generation of young tuner enthusiast drivers will be driving (if they even still exist) in 10 years, as nothing from now or up to 10 years ago ( or longer?) is engineered to last, cheaply or reliably. But without external intervention (crash, stupid mods, greenies, etc.) I would assume my R33 will still be kickin' on, yet the demand (assuming it's there) will be too high for it to be a good value proposition like it was for most of us. At which case it's not a comparable discussion.

     

    1 hour ago, junkie said:

    1. No lag. Torque from idle just about. Compared to nothing below 2.5k rpm from the s14, even in stock form

    absolutely same with my mum's i30, not even N, but get over say 70km/h and try to accelerate and there's nothing there, this is where the word compromise comes into play, just like all those "how can i 400hp rb20 no lag" threads can't understand. plus no soul and blah blah blah, I definitely enjoy thrashing it around town though, but wouldn't pay $20k for it compared to the $5k for the R33, however, would i buy the same R33 at $10-12k today? who knows, but probably not.

    Robs Sil80-more skyline than S chassis

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted

    41 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

    I'v looked at those as a cheap weekender a few times, keen to hear what you think of it.

    Man/Auto? 

    I see around the interwebs people are able to get 230-240rwkw+ out of them, but I have a hard time wrapping my head around 240rwkw from an NA v6 with exhaust/intake and a tune. 

    with 11:1 CR, Wiki says it's 261kW from factory (i'm guessing at the flywheel) so seems reasonable

    • Like 1

    Looking for alarm and immobiliser suggestions

    in Car Audio & Electrical

    Posted

    1 hour ago, joshuaho96 said:

    The best security system is a locked garage. Add bollards if you're extra worried. Alarms are a huge waste of time and really only good for giving you hearing loss when it goes off for no reason but not much else. Transponder immobilizers might discourage casual theft/hotwiring but certainly nobody determined. GPS trackers, maybe with a tilt sensor/geofencing might help you locate your car if someone tries to tow it away and you're extremely quick to react.

    Cause garage locks are so sophisticated and everywhere you go has a personal garage for every person... bollards for sure if the car is worth it but still doesn't help if you're out and about. Alarm is absolutely worth it if only to warn you (assuming your close by) or scare an amateur, mine certainly has when it used to be street parked. No point making it easier for them and i can't imagine anyone is putting alarm only systems in their car. 

    In relation to GPS, anyone determined enough to use a tow truck would use a jammer making it instantly redundant, and tbf would probably just put you in hospital if you caught them as i'd assume they're not your average thief.

    • Like 1
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