AlexCim

the annoying thing is that my aftermarket cat that i have bought has a exhaust temp sensor hole in it, had to block it up with a bolt. I think ill get an exhaust temperature gauge aftermarket and just put it in there, but would love to just connect the factory stuff back up... I havnt seen any wires under there though? Right now, i am most inclined to just remove the POT all together. Brad, does your dash appear dim at all? Or would you say its on par with commo's etc etc

Ok, I am sick of how dim my bloody dash is!! There are two things that i will try now. I removed the dash and found that the globes on the back of the dash are Toshiba globes. There are several different types of globes too 14V1.4W (most) 14V2W (~few) 14V3WL (~couple) The red ones are the ones that do the light of the dash (the others all do independent things like seperate lights etc) So i would want to replace the 3W globes I am tossing up the possibility of finding brighter globes or LED's to fit the required holes. More information on the globes here, they are the T-2 WEDGE BASE LAMPS style. http://www.htl.co.jp/pro/kogata/et65.html It seems I should get those gas filled ones as they have a higher brightness then the regular ones, or just get the non long life ones (clearly they would be on the most, so they choose the long life globes). Anyone know of any brighter globes, or should i just shoot off to my local jaycar? Now, for complaince the guys had to make the dash have a dimmer switch. All they did was cut the power wire and then put in a POT. I am thinking that this could have increased the resistance, even when the pot is on maximum, meaning even the brightest setting on the pot is below what it came like factory. Anyone think this could be right? I am going to try and cut the POT out and just connect the two wires and see if this makes a difference, but this does go against the australian complaince rules..... hmmm Anyway, just as a side note, i also found that i had an exhaust tempterure light hole (between park brake and little engine light)...but i had no globe in there (?)

I think the problem could be the thermistor (thermally sensitive resistor) behind the cluster surround. Try to replace this part first and see how that goes(few dollars i assume), because if it is old it could be sensing mega wrong resistances... and also being the "control" unit of the whole climate sensing idea.. Also, it may be dusty, so give it a good blow to get dust off (insulation)

Solved! - You sure are one smart cookie

Urm, anyone got ideas?

What did you guys all do about the dash?/ I was driving today and i looked at the dash and thought, what happends to the P N D 3 2 1 on the cluster? Did you all just leave it there and disc the lights or did you replace the cluster..

What did you guys all do about the dash?/ I was driving today and i looked at the dash and thought, what happends to the P N D 3 2 1 on the cluster? Did you all just leave it there and disc the lights or did you replace the cluster..

So the auto trans fluid bottle is where? Arnt there two atessa bottles, one in the boot and one under the hood? they look the same.

This might sound stupid, but where is the trans fluid on the stagea? I see the atessa fluid bottle, but where is the trans? Or, is attessa the trans?? Photos if possible..

Oddly enough, my car ALSO pulls to the left! Nothing major, but if you let go of the steering wheel, it eventually starts turning left... i presume i just need a wheel alignment?

Yeh, i get a definate noise from the engine at about 1750RPM, but i also get a noise from the transmission... Whatever, manual conversion is all being organized now, should be all done with soon even if something is wrong or not But thanks for that info actually, it did put my mind at easy a bit (about one noise at least)

the wire links are just parts of the wire that is given to you, otherwise just use cut offs from the resistors/capacitors etc that you have made...bend em in shape as for spacing, my hand controller is pretty dodgy...i have to solder the button holes bigger. If you want it to sit flat get some solder, melt it and hold it on the end of the soldering gun..then align all screen and just tac solder the thing in at two ends, then solder all the remaining areas...thats what i did, turned out fine....

The links are just bits of wire yes

I must say, your work looks PRO I hope that i can do similar with the engine still in, will have to remove the brake cyl though.. What did you do regarding the lines between everything? Did you get custom made lines? Specifically about the steel lines, did you just take the ones from the GTR? Also, where did you mount everything else that you listed in the manual conversion thread?? Thanks heaps!

Sent you a PM jake

Have a look here http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...ult_type=topics Basically, if enough people want things for stageas, i have no issues to lend him my Stagea to make moulds off. Parts that we can consider making are - bonnets/boots - pumped gaurds - airboxes for POD's (but i dont have a pod...so meh) - if enough interest, doors etc etc When i do my manual conversion, ill get a custom made centre console cover made, so ill try and see if we can produce that too.. Cheers, Alex

Is that recessed in? Thats Ska's manual stagea

Oh, i aint upset about it or anything... i just wish i knew the real figure...for services and stuff like that The car definatly looks in damn good condition, the body is straight and the interior is in very good condition, so i aint fussed... Just giving a warning to everyone thats all...

Oh also, i doubt the timing belt had been changed, and the high KM's could also explain why many stagea drivers experiance bad fuel economy of a drastic kind The guys with stageas with 13L/100 could be the ones that get the REAL early km ones.. oh well!

I dont really care, i would have expected it, just to any new stagea buyers, even if they say its got 70,000 on the clock, like mine does now, dont trust it Just coz its a small country, and a digital KM counter, it can still be wound back... PS. Now i know why my trans is in such bad condition (at least i am a car enthusiast and plan rebuild+to replace most parts anyway)

I get the exact same problem...!! Id love to know this too, cheers

If you are seriously intersted, and can organize at least 5 people, i could hook everyone up with something. Either CF, CF/FRP or FRP... Naturally, costs change based on what you want... But yes, first organize some people and then ill talk to my friend... www.topstage.com

My mechanics are not sure about recessing the booster into the firewall because they are afraid about police and so on, as here in vic it isnt exactly leniant. So they are thinking to put hte booster hard against the brake cylinder... Would the GTR pedal set still be suitable... Wonder where the autech parts i can get them, (like, who to call)

The hill was relativly steep, probably a good 20 degree incline But regardless, i think i just found out my stagea has ~120,000 on the clock, not ~70,000 that it had when it came from japan...based on a service sticked i found on the door, gotta get it translated.. Anyway, ill keep everyone posted with my manal converson

So you reckomend GTR pedal set, that would make some sense?