rb180

bumpp

i'm sure we could possibly work something out mate? Let me know if ur interested. thanks champ send me some offers folks.. cash offers or swaps +cash welcome. I'm keen to sell so if i get the right offer it will be a quick transaction.

bumppp

bumppp

bumppp.. reasonable offers welcome

heres some pics of the paint damage on the body and wheels

Will get them up hopefully 2moro. cheers

Yeh possibly.. pm me some details cheers

bumppp typo: ODO is 139,XXX kms

1990 R32 GTR Gunmetal Grey 5 sp man 128,XXX kms Melbourne, Victoria Price: Going cheap at $16,500 and/or Trades and other offers very welcome Mods Include: Apexi Power Fc with Hand Controller Apexi Power Fc boost controller (can control boost from hand controller) HKS air intakes Exeedy Cushion Button Clutch nismo coilover suspension full turbo back exhaust (split dump/front pipes that join to a high flow cat and 4 inch cat back) Digital tacho/shift light Apexi Boost guage 17 inch after market rims that were painted black by previous owner(they are peeling pretty badly though) Alpine mp3/cd player headunit Brand New Viper alarm (remote start etc...auto window wind up) Blitz Turbo timer Speed cut meter splitfire Coilpacks 4WD to RWD switch in the cabin Adjustable cam gears Clear cam gear cover This car has made 245awkw @ 0.9 bar boost on a safe tune. With its major service there was a brand new water pump, pulleys and bearing installed along with a Greedy Timing belt and all fluids changed(Top quality oils used including motul 300v Chrono and Redline). Interior is in very good condition for its age. One of the best original r32 gtr interiors i've seen. Exterior is in a lil poor condition. There are areas with small paint peeling and some small scuffs and scratches. Majority of the paint work is good except for those areas i mentioned. Wouldn't take much to fix them up. The only bad points about this car are the paint flaking on the wheels and the exterior faults i described above. Get a new set of wheels and fix up the lil scratches and your done. Thats all i can think of atm so if i've missed anything I will update it later. Contact me by e-mail, posts/pm's or mobile if your interested in buying, making an offer or a swap offer. email: [email protected] mobile number: Luke 0403 143 618 call or sms Cheers

As the topic states im after a rear 1/4 window drivers side for an 1990 r32 GTR. Silly me left the GPS on the back seat and some fool has smashed the rear 1/4 window and has taken it. They were however nice enough to leave everything else including my wallet, sunglasses, stereo, power fc HC and gauges. :S Anyway if anyone has one it would really help me out. Cash ready. In vic or interstate i dont mind. Just need one asap. Cheers

thanks for the help guys.. Funny thing is i went back today to check it out and the whinning sound has now gone.. The air does go cool when i set the degrees to 18 and does go hot when the degrees is set accordingly. I also tried the a/c and it definitely isn't warm air anymore but not exactly 'cold'. Even after driving for 10 minutes the air was still blowing hot and i can't check if the sound increases with the fan speed because the sound has now gone hehe I always use the recycle when using the a/c and only really keep it on full fan speed to get the cabin cool at the start then turn the fan down. Anyway ill see how it goes 2moro and post up my results. Thanks again guys

So i went to meet up with some friends yesterday and had the air con on while driving and all was fine. Got to the destination and turned the car off and left it for about 4 hours. Come back outside and turn the car back on and the air con is now blowing hot air and i can hear a whinning sound from behind the passenger side dash that wasn't there before. Does anyone have any idea what it could be? Is the condenser or something behind the dash there? I had a search aswell but couldn't find anyone that had a whinning sound. Just alot of broken compressors and the like. any help would be great cheers.

I'm pretty sure he knows what he's doing. He tunes cars all around the world i was told by some other people. And the car is running perfect atm so im very happy with the work. His name is Ray and the shop is now called ART in heidelberg.

I've already ran a 12.5 before the mods were on hehe so im hoping to beat that at least.

All was sorted. He reset something on the dyno, I'm not sure what it was and then it worked fine after that I managed 244 kw at 1 bar. Car is stock apart from full exhaust, hks intakes, splitfire coil packs, adj cam gears and an exedy clutch. I'm pretty happy with the result. I'm also hitting Calder park this Friday to see what 1/4 mile time i can get. I'll try and post the dyno sheet up to see what you guys think about the graph. Cheers

thanks for the replys. Im pretty sure its hooked up right as when i switch to 2wd mode and induce some wheelspin on the street the abs doesnt kick in. I have one of those garage switches off the forums here. Also the anti-lock light comes on with the 4wd light when the switch is flicked. The guy said other cars are on the dyno are fine. But he did just give me a call and said he talked to his friend who had the same problem and he did reset something. So im taking it down now and ill see how i go. cheers

So i took my r32gtr down today to get a power fc and boost controller installed and tuned. Mods are full exhaust, hks intakes, splitfire coil packs, adj cam gears and thats pretty much it. Now the power/power fc boost controller is installed and the car is put up ontop the dyno. The cars put into gear and the clutch is let out and the car stars to accelerate but rear wheels are being help back by something so the torque is sent thru to the front wheels while the back wheels are being help back, almost as if the rear brakes are being applied. So what they did was stop the car and run it in RWD mode by flicking the switch i have rigged up to the fuse under the dash. The car does the same thing but now without transferring any torque to the front wheels as the switch is flicked over 2 RWD mode. So its as if the brakes are being applied when any speed is gained. Next what they did was replace the stock ecu which also had the same result in both RWD and 4WD modes. So they decided to take the car for a spin around the block to see if the same thing happens. The result was the car driving perfectly fine in 4wd mode (Torque was being applied to the front as usual) and also in RWD mode(No front torque transferred). Now heres the weird part. When the brakes on the dyno are turned off(load is applied to the rollers by a brake to measure the power output of the car like you all know a dyno does) the car drives fine and can accelerate normally. So just in summary the problem is I cant get the power FC tuned because the rear wheels are being help back by something when you try to accelerate on the dyno in both RWD and 4WD modes. When the car is put back on the road it drives normally in both RWD and 4WD modes with both ecu's in. Could it possibly be a fault in the dyno brakes? I cant think of anything else that it might be. The workshop owner has never seen anything like this he said and neither have I ? Any help or idea's would be great.

Will it be ok to leave the adjustable cam gears set to 0 on my rb26 until i get a chance to get it on the dyno when i get the power fc installed? Can they just be put straight on and driven for say a week set on 0?

yeh i heard the same thing today. Everyone told me the wont do it or it cant be done.

i dont suppose there is any Victorian equivelant to this air con guru in melbourne? hehe i could really use his expertise right now. Anyone know of any air con specialists in melb?

i dont suppose you know of any in melbourne?

from another thread Same thing happened with me. I replaced fuse 10 and the aircon worked fine for a bit then i smelt something funny and found that fuse 10 has melted. So i tried to pull it out and only 3/4's of it would come out which leaves 1/4 of it stuck inside still. Anyway from reading the thread I'm guessing the windings have been cooked like you guys have said was the problem with yours. I'm taking the car to an auto elec as i would have abit of trouble performing the "R32 Gt-r In-situ Airconditioner Windings Removal" DIY. So what exactly do i tell the auto elec is the problem? Is it as simple as telling him i need the windings on the comperssor rewound? and can anyone suggest someone who would be good at this or has done it before? I dont mind paying good money for a good job. Any help would be great thanks. oh and Btw im in Melbourne, Victoria. Cheers

Same thing happened with me. I replaced fuse 10 and the aircon worked fine for a bit then i smelt something funny and found that fuse 10 has melted. So i tried to pull it out and only 3/4's of it would come out which leaves 1/4 of it stuck inside still. Anyway from reading the thread I'm guessing the windings have been cooked like you guys have said was the problem with yours. I'm taking the car to an auto elec as i would have abit of trouble performing the "R32 Gt-r In-situ Airconditioner Windings Removal" DIY. So what exactly do i tell the auto elec is the problem? Is it as simple as telling him i need the windings on the comperssor rewound? and can anyone suggest someone who would be good at this or has done it before? I dont mind paying good money for a good job. Any help would be great thanks. oh and Btw im in Melbourne, Victoria. Cheers

de-cat ? hehe