Godzilla32

You can test the thermostat by heating a tin of water while submersing the thermostat in it via a piece of wire. Check what temp the thermostat fully opens. Another idea would be to fit a low temp thermostat. The cooling system on your car is very effiecent if working properly. It may be 'an old car' but technology to create a decent cooling system was available.

Yes i will agree its common to happen with those stock heat exchangers. Deren

Order didnt arrive on Friday unfortunately, but that left me time to sort out another annoying problem. When i fitted my Apexi N1 shocks to the front of the car with the Cusco pillow ball upper mounts i left out a spacer. I thought it wasnt necesary at the time but it turned out, without it there is nothing to tighten the strut top against. So the rod of the shock is free to move up and down through the hole in the strut top. Until now i had been too lazy to see if fitted, the extra spacer would fit and do the job. So yesterday i pulled the front shocks out and sorted it out, they are now properly bolted to the strut tops and refitted in the car. I'll hopefully receive the adapter and clamps from MTQ on tuesday or sometime during the week. Hopefully next weekend i will be able to borrow the engine crane and refit the beast. Deren

Last night i stubled across the exact spring clamps i had been searching for over the last 6 months! It was by accident when i was searching for a fuel rail adapter. I found that Turbosmart have both the clamps and the adapter. Once again im dealing with Chris Whittaker at MTQ engine systems in Brisbane as they are a distributor. So now that i finally bit the bullet and ordered the Wurth crimp clamps i have just had to cancel. The down side is the spring clamps are $19.95 per box of 10! I decided i need at least 20 and with the adapter included it comes to $87 including delivery Oh well its not easy or cheap being a perfectionist! So finally i can rest easy knowing i have tied up a couple of annoying loose ends If i have them by tomorrow afternoon i will be able to work on the engine over the weekend and perhaps have it back in by the following weekend. Still really struggling with cash flow at the moment but i hope to get some money together and purchase a gearbox rebuild kit so i can get that back together soon. More soon, Deren

Nissan

You guys really need to get yourself a life and stop living it out as keyboard warriors.

However when you really think about it its kind of the customers responsibilty to maintain their own car and make sure its ready on the day of tuning. I dont think its something the tuner should have to do at his own time and expense. Its takes time to put the car on the hoist and go over all the fluids etc. Especially a GTR with 2 diffs, gearbox, transfer, etc.

The main reason they fail is from hitting the rev limiter all the time for extended periods with big power. The vibrations crack the gearset in the pump. An aftermarket balancer will help, but aslong as your not bouncing it off the limiter constantly it wont be a problem. Deren

I just Pm'd about this GB not realising it was 2 years old haha. Im very interested in the original GB of gauges and bezels for R32 GTR. Would love the x3 centre gauges in the same finish also. Much cheaper than a set of Nismo gauges. Deren

It takes me about 30 mins to do a comprehensive check over on a car so i wouldnt say anymore than that.

Maybe we should start a new club Once again i've been pretty slack. Tough times as far as money goes. I will be putting the engine back in soon. Not a great deal of work to be done before that happens. I have a decent camera back now so pics will be of better quality. Jobs remaining before engine is refitted are as follows: Fit all vacuum tubing with new Wurth crimp clamps Fit injectors and rail - Not essential Give engine bay final clean down Remove front drive shafts (fitted to stop new wheel bearings separating) I did pick up a nice new fuel pressure regulator. Im planning on fitting it directly into the end of the fuel rail for a neat custom touch. Its polished and has a gauge fitted to it. So that will get sorted out soon too. Deren

Why dont you just remove those sections from the car and have a look down them from the ends with a torch. They are right there on the end so i dont understand why you wouldnt be able to see in them easily?

A few guys posted some ideas on my resto thread up top in the stickys. Only problem is you will have to search thru the thread for it. There are pics of one mounted between the rad and I/C and also pics of it mounted in the drivers side behind the brake duct. Only problem is on the GTR the stock recirculation valves live there. So thats pretty much impossible. This puts me in the same boat as you. I liked the way one guys has mounted between rad and I/C but to do it the way he has you gotta remove the P/S cooler. Not something i wanted to do. Im still deciding where to mount it. Will make the final decision after i put the engine back in and have fitted up other bits and pieces around the front. Deren

Sounds like your describing a number of things.. The receiver dryer is silver in some cases and it is a cylinder. It can have a pressure switch on the top of it. Do you want the wiring plug or the switch itself? Best idea is to get a photo of what your after, makes it easier to get help.

Hey guys, Im a GTR purist. I dont think i'd ever own any other skyline besides a GTR. Owning something with the status the GTR carries is what does it for me. Not just going fast in a nice car. A first for its time, way ahead of anything else. So to answer your question, i wouldnt mess about with a RB26 in the GTS-t. Its quite pointless when you consider the work involved and expense. Just buy a tidy GTR. I have seen some very desireable Vspec's selling and they are actually starting to appreciate in price now which is a good sign.

To test your AFM get a multi meter and check it for voltage under load. It should read 4.5-5v under full load. If your not seeing that then you have a problem with your AFM. In my experience so far this is the best way i know of to test an AFM. There are 3 wires normally on your AFM connector, power 12v, earth, signal 5v. You want to probe the signal and an earth. Colors vary make to make but the obvious would be 12v red, earth black, signal yellow. Deren

Im in luck i still have all mine if i do go down that road... I'll make a decision soon...one of these years

Oh ok thats very interesting. I will investigate what it will cost. In saying that, im not sure if i still have all the original clamps lol. Im leaning more and more towards the Wurth clamps and just using the shiney ones up top.. I have FAST if you wanna get it from me. Deren

From what im told its yellow chromate which alot of companies are no longer using due to health risks.

Yeah that was another option. Im just not sure if it would be worth the cost though?!? More and more im thinking to use the Wurth clamps and then if i like i can use the few yellow ones i have on visible tubes. Deren

OK plates are pretty cool and i now have a pic of one. I just posted a thread about the spring action clamps i need for my vacuum tubing. Can anyone help? If i cant get them soon i will resort to using a clamp from Wurth. Its not as nice to look at but will do the job well. I just liked how the yellow chromate looked against the blue silicone tubing haha More soon, Deren

Hey guys n girls, If you have read my restoration thread you will understand why i have to have these exact clamps Anyway what im looking for is the spring action clamps that are commonly fitted to inline fuel filters, vacuum lines, etc. Normally they are discarded as over time they can loose tension. However i only want to used them for my new silicone vacuum tubing so theres not a great deal of pressure. So far everyone i have asked hasnt been able to help me but i have found they are supplied in Ryco Z14 and Z15 universal inline fuel filter boxes. Thats where i got the 6 or so that i have already. Unfortunately i need a whole box. Nissan will sell me them but not in the flashy yellow chromate If anyone knows of a supplier of these please let me know. Regards, Deren

Good points you made. I havent had one rebuilt but if i did i would contact Mr cool here in Brisbane. It would come with a warranty or they would never get any work. I think from memory they are around $300 to rebuild your average compressor. Its mostly just large o-rings, bearings and they probably replace the clutch.

Nah dont need vaseline with those pumps. Just a light smear of oil or assembly lube to help lubricate on initial cranking.

You can get them rebuilt too. Just another option