Godzilla32

Great! I hope it has a good long life. Im worried the harsh clutch material will wear the flywheel and pressure plate. There is very little room for wear in the new drive plate so im guessing that indicates there will be more wear on the accompanying surfaces. See how it goes i guess Meanwhile i have decided to stick with my ACL forgies and mate them to a set of Spool rods from Spool performance. John at JHH who is machining my bottom end assures me ACL's are a good thing and just as good as the other options. So see as the block is already machined to take the ACL's i'll stick with them. So now i need to order myself the new rods and get them and my clutch to JHH to be balanced very finely. Im having some oil control work done to the bottom end plus other bits like a JUN crank collar etc. Bottom end will be good for 700hp I will update you guys when i have more news. Deren

Not a ceramic its a carbotic drive plate. I was told you cannot rate a clutch at horsepower as it handles torque not horsepower and even then there are too many variables in the mix to be able to actually 'rate it'. However it was said that the same clutch was in a drag car that ran a 9.5 sec quarter. So plenty of grab. Deren

I had this same issue in a 32 it turned out i used the stereo dimmer wire as a ground and it shorted out the fuse. Its all on the same fuse. Check that out.

Your welcome, the only thing you can do wrong is drive it with an air pocket in it and over heat it...just run it with the cap off and make sure all the air is out before you drive it and then watch you gauge. If the gauge rises while you drive it and it wont read normally (ie too hot) pull over and crack the cap to the first click to release the air then if theres no coolant coming out carefully remove it the rest of the way and top it up then it should be sweet.

Heres a quick pic of my new clutch from Jim Berry! Mean looking thing and now ive got 3700lbs of clamp

Because its not on the thread itself it rules out a loose plug. So its most likely a poor connection between the coil and plug causing arcing or as previously mentioned corrosion from water sitting in there. Thats the most likely cause but if it were the case you would be experiencing a decent misfire from it! Deren

1. If you dont know where your exhaust mannifold is maybe you shouldnt be doing this Thermostat in a housing at the engine side of either top or bottom radiator hoses. 2. Bleeder nipple will be on your intake mannifold and will say do not open when hot next to it on a little gold sticker. 3. Drain tap will be on the bottom of your radiator, if you have a drain tap that is. 4. Radiator hoses run from the tanks of the radiator to engine. I think either invest in a workshop manual if you can find one or take it to a garage. If your in Brisbane i can do it for you. Deren

This is how i flush cooling systems at work: If you have a drain plug that is accessible on the radiator use it to drain the radiator, otherwise drop the bottom hose off the radiator. Make sure your heater is switched to full hot, you may need the ignition on if you have climate control. (This flushes the heater core too) Pull one end off the most accessible heater hoses and put a garden hose down it tightly (remove the nozzle and just poke the hose in) Turn the hose on fully and watch the old coolant flow from the radiator drain hole and the spot where you removed the heater hose. Let the water run until it runs clear. Remove the garden hose Put the radiator drain back in and leave the heater hose off. If your engine has a air bleed screw in the cooling system/intake mannifold loosen it now. Start filling the system with coolant keeping a close eye on the heater hose and pipe where it was removed from. DO NOT REFIT IT UNTIL COOLANT FLOWS FROM IT. WATER IS NOT COOLANT This way you push out all the air in the system and all the excess water (otherwise you wont fit much coolant in) Leaving the heater hose off helps with air pockets in the system in a BIG way Once it starts to flow the color of the coolant put the hose back on and continue filling the system with the correct percentage of coolant concentrate. When it won't take anymore coolant start the engine and get it circulating by holding the revs up slightly. While you do this you should be able to add more coolant/water. Leave the radiator cap off until there are no more bubbles coming up through the coolant and both radiator hoses are nice and hot. If you have an air bleed screw do it up once coolant flows steadily from it. This means that the thermostat has opened, it can take quite awhile so be patient Once both hoses are hot you can refit the cap and take it for a drive (keep and eye on the temp guage) Don't turn off the heater tap until you feel hot air coming out of the vents. (cold air means you have most likely an air pocket in the system) Have fun

You have to have an ignition coil of some sort to amplify the ignition voltage. The reason they use more than one coil is to enhance spark strength and by having then directly mounted ontop of each cylinders spark plug this eliminates the use of HT leads which have their own fair share of arcing problems. Unfortunately after 10 or more years the extreme heat that the coil packs are subject to gradually deteriorate them. Deren

450lb/ft is correct for the balancer bolt on a rb26, is it the same for a rb25

Need to sell them soon so make an offer and i'll consider it.

Yeah they are original but are in good condition as was the rest of the car. Makes the rebuild a bit cheaper!

Engine braking done properly is fine providing you match revs for higher rpm use. As for the shuddering make sure you dont actually have a missfire under load (as thats when they tend to pop up). Either way its not hard to test your clutch and possibly the clutch packs in the transfer case for slip. Find a bit of a hill and start up it slowly in a higher gear like 4th or 5th make sure your really loading up the engine with near to full acceleration then kick the clutch and see how long it takes to re-engage. Dont release your foot off the accelerator while you do that, keep it down like your flat shifting but without the shift It should regain engagment very quickly if its all good. If not the engine will labour and it will slowly regain engagement. Deren

I dunno about your RB25 but in my 26 there is no need to remove the w/pump to change the t/belt. My genuine pump was 75 bucks.

If its going either way i doubt it'll be the motor. More likely to be the dry soldier joint by the sounds of it. Save your money and take a careful look like wanted suggested. Deren

Haha awesome, be good to catch up. I just wish i could tell you when it wil be finished! Its still a long way from being complete as im only just getting money together to pay for the bottom end work/components. Im hoping to borrow a bit more money to help me at least get it running again. The last few weeks have seen a fair bit of work completed on it. I think i did all what i had planned to do so i've added a few photos Note: Standard shocks still fitted until i receive new upper mounts for the Apexi N1's Since the last post i have cleaned and fitted: Both doors with my original seal which were all in exceptionally good condition for 18 year rubber! Both doors with all the locking and latch release components Both doors with window regulators and glass Properly fitted the JIC castor rods with new bolts The only parts it looks like im going to have to buy for the doors are new bodyside weather strips (part that runs on the glass on the outside). The originals look ok but new ones will look better Deren

I have managed to clean up the thread on the flare nut and corresponding thread on the rack with the help of my boss, thanks Tony! Last weekend i then fitted up the rack with the new polyurethane mounts from fulcrum and plumbed it all up including the reservour, minus the pump as i mentioned in the other post Ive also refitted up a very schmick looking factory boost control solinoid, it'll stay till i get my avc-r The charcoal canistor is now fitted too. I stripped my old drivers side door aswell last saturday so i'll clean it all up this weekend and choose the best bits i have then refit the doors. I may need to buy a few new bits like clips and weather strips etc. Luckily the 2nd hand drivers door i bought had everything minus the trim. As it turned out the glass was in decent condition, better than my original so im going with it. I have changed plans for the bottom end of my new engine. I have decided to spend extra on the internals and get a set of race forged pistons and rods and strengthen the crank instead of strengthening the stock rods. I'll have more after i work on it this weekend coming, Deren

Make an offer...

Brand new set of 6 ACL Forged pistons with rings and gudgeon pins in Brisbane will freight at buyers expense

As the topic states im selling a set of six ACL Forged pistons complete. They are new, never been installed into an engine. I'll sell them for $1100 PM any interest please. Deren

Hey mate. Your welcome to see the car. I'll PM you my details.. Im trying mate soon i hope to get some more money and finally be able to finish it. At least to a drivable level! Im really hanging to drive it again - XR8 Ute?? I would have chosen the XR6 Turbo personally

Hey mate thanks for that! Sorry about the lack of posts. I havn't been doing as much work on the car lately as its been dark by the time i get home from work and pretty wet and cold. Not very inviting out in the garage! I've been hitting it pretty hard on the weekends however and have nearly completed the power steering system, minus the pump which will be installed on the engine. Its starting to come together in the engine bay with the only parts missing are: of course the engine itself, battery, radiator and shroud, etc. I will get a few pics this weekend i hope as i plan to fix a crossed thread on a rack flare nut! Would have completed it last weekend but unfortunately i managed to make a minor cross thread and cause myself a headache I will reply on the weekend when i have hopefully got some photos of it all finished. Still hanging out for some cheap strut tops (shocky upper mounts) for my front Apexi N1 shocks...Anyone??? Deren

Thanks mate you'll have to come past one day and see it

Wow Canada huh? Long way Yeah im actually an apprentice mechanic so it helps to have that behind me when i work on the car. You should check out sillbeer.com thats one fine rebuild of an s13!

If your having access problems you can always jack the front of the engine up from below and that wil tilt the back end of it down giving you more clearance between the bellhousing and the tunnel. Deren