Godzilla32

They most likely noticed one of the internal seals was leaking. Make sure the rack boots aren't broken and as long as its not pissing out dont bother replacing it just yet. You can get your one rebuilt. That would probably be the cheapest way. Just call around to p/s shops for a price. If you buy 2nd hand its most likely going to fail in the near future too. Not much point in replacing something old with something just as old. If it were me i would rebuild mine if infact its actually necessary. Keep in mind they are suspension people at pedders and will probably try to up-sell it to you. Deren

If you use oil resistant hose like transmission cooler hose you shouldnt have to replace them for years. You dont need braided lines unless your made of money. Like you said they are low pressure and braided lines are made for high pressure applications. I used straight hose for all the low pressure hoses in my gtr p/s system. It was suprisingly flexible and even on the bends i thought it wouldnt make, it didnt kink. Nissan wanted $300+ to supply me with 5 hoses! I've heard the feed from the reseviour to pump is $110 from Nissan. Considering its larger diameter i may have to bite the bullet and buy just that one from them.

Yeah if over-tensioned you will commonly get a whining from it, however it generally quietens down after its done some km's. Deren

Cheers mate. I had thought about hiding the wiring etc but looked back on original photos and realised that with everything back in the engine bay you can't see much of the wiring anyway so it would be a bit pointless. Im currently getting the block painted up and will either assemble the bottom end this weekend if its raining or if not, i'll head out to jamboree at willowbank More to come soon.. Deren

Id be using locktite on the studs. The metal tabs are to stop the nuts coming off, not the studs.

Good ole DIY. Love it

Yeah i just looked around then, i think you mean 2860? 25 is smaller turbine wheel and commonly used on silvias

Yeah i aggree with the regard to response, its important to be able to drive it comfortably on the street but i want the potential to crank them up for big power in the future. I guess 700+hp is big enough, maybe im just greedy I've noticed though that sometimes manufacturers say they will make xxxhp but when it comes down to it they are really pushed to the limit to produce these figures. Anyone had any real big numbers out of the 2860r-5's? Deren

Hey everyone, I had planned to go with a pair of the Garrett 2860r-5 turbos but im now thinking to research what the next step up in potential power flow would be. The aforementioned turbos will potentially flow a combined 720hp. Which is plenty, but im still curious as to what the next step up is? Keeping in mind i do not want high mount/aftermarket manifolds and want to keep the twin setup. Ideally im after another garrett option, just the next one up the ladder. Any thoughts will be much appreciated, Deren

Metal Cat seems to be the way to go for good value. They have some impressive flow figures. From memory the stock GTR car will flow 350cfm. So anything over that is an improvement. Deren

Im pretty sure anything you have to bolt directly onto the back of the turbos will require either removal of the turbos or engine and you fit it back into the car as one. You could just bolt up the first section of the dump/front pipe and fit the rest once it was back in the car. CES make a similar combined dump/front pipe. Not sure if the akwardness of it all is worth it persoanlly. However i would be interested into hearing the outcome. The other thing regarding that HPI article is that they are saying the CAT is the most restrictive item and if you replace that and leave the rest of the exhaust its not a bad alternative to a full system. Besides the stock gtr system is only a little smaller than a 3in system. I think from memory its 2.5in stock

Hey mate, i'll be using the car as a weekend/track car. I couldnt go to all this work and not use it everynow and then. Yeah it helps me sleep at night knowing my car is mint top to bottom and i've personally assembled it all myself I pick up the bottom end tomorrow night and drop off the head and sump. Head is getting more work done ie: port matching and flow work. Its already been completely rebuilt with all new exhaust guides, new stem seals, valve seats re-cut, re-shimmed, and pocket flowed. The sump will get the drillings opened up and i'll be fitting a Tomei sump baffle. I've focussed on oil control and aimed for power handling of 700+hp. I'll post up pics of the bottom end as i'll be painting it over the weekend Deren

Got a genuine water pump from nissan for my 26 for $76

Picking up the bottom end in a week. Its had the works and is ready for assembly! I had John at JHH Engineering in Woodridge do the following work - Hot bath block Rebore 86.5mm Clean all galleries and fit new plugs Fit Jun crank collar Fit new forged rods to new forged pistons (with ARP rod bolts) Linish the crank and check all clearances Open up oil return through block from head Fit oil feed to head restrictor Deck block Balance the whole entire rotating mass including the harmonic balancer and flywheel/clutch Open up drillings in the sump Port match/high flow the cylinder head Think thats everything... So in a week i may be ready to assemble my tough new bottom end That would be nice. I'll keep you posted, Deren

Should be pretty quick but as Duncan said there should always be 5% front torque in the r33 so your car should wheelspin even less than an r32 with the different programmed Attessa seeing as its always engaged to some extent...

You cant assume its the knock sensor/s. You need to have the car scanned for trouble codes that will be the easiest way to determine what area is at fault.

The signal one runs a vacuum signal from the engine to the canister so it knows when your going a safe speed to purge the canister. So now it will either be purging all the time or not at all. Id say most likely not at all... Deren

Hey might mean when he launches it. In that case it possibly needs a bleed. Still, you need to you work out if infact its just the rear wheels spining or all four. Another thing to consider is the health of your clutch, being 4wd it places alot more load on your clutch during hard launches. I know myself that hard shifts wont always make a clutch slip but hard launches will with the grip four wheels provide. A whine from the transfer seems to be fairly normal.

Oops ok sorry my mistake. I'll just stick to the 32's huh lol... I would top up your fluid and give it a bleed as its detailed in the DIY section or manual if you have it. The noise you are hearing is probably coming from the transfer case as its positioned to the right side.

Yeah make sure itf full when its running and bleed the system lock to lock then turn it off and let it sit for a couple of minutes then restart it. This is often a good way to remove aeration. The only other thing it could be is if its drawing air in the new hose you fitted. Check all hose clamps on the entire P/S system for leaks and tension. Regards, Deren

Nissan recommend to use Nissan D-matic fluid. Im not 100% sure if its safe to use normal ATF (Dextron) or if they just want the money coming back to them. Unless its hell expensive, id say use the nissan stuff just to play it safe. If your feeling adventurous you could even bleed up the system to make sure its working as well as it can be. See the DIY section. Deren

The smell comes from the heater box and evaporator box. After time a build-up of mould and junk builds up in there due to the condensation you get when operating the A/C. Sometimes it can also be due to a blocked A/C drain tube. As im sure the excess water in the drip tray would help to build mould etc. Remove the lower half of the left hand side of tha dash including the glove box and you will be bale to see (from the left), the blower, the evaporator box, heater box. You should be able to remove the evaporator separetly to the other boxes. If i were you (this is what i did and have been told to do) i'd remove the evaporator box and heater box and take them to bit and clean them out with soapy water to remove any grime etc. Another thing that builds up is gunk from the intake air being drawn in by the blower. It gets spread all over the evaporator core, as its the first decent restriction in the air stream. When this happens it can get so bad that you actually get considerably less air flow thru the vents. Check it out. Regards, Deren

I think a good percentage of them have already annoyed the shit out of their previous owners and they have removed it. On the 32 im pretty sure the chime is mounted behind the lower part of the drivers side section of dash (near where the panel for the fuses comes off) Deren

If there is some power going to the front wheels all the time, there is a problem. If you research it you will find it is not mean't to have torque all the time. One common way of tricking the Atessa E-TS system is to fit staggered tyres front to rear, instead of the same width all round as it should be. I have heard this can bring on more front torque earlier. I think doing this is also known to run front torque constantly too. So this maybe why you have the minimum of 5% front torque. Could also be something to do with air in the system. If you read the DIY section there is the procedure for air bleeding of the 4wd system. However as i previosly mentioned the different model skylines with the Atessa E-TS system have it tuned differently, but only to bring in more front torque earlier, not all the time. Regards, Deren

The Attessa E-TS system calculates its operation from a number of sensors such as the ABS wheel sensors, on-board G-sensor, etc. It uses these inputs to calculate upto 100 times a second if it will be beneficial to provide front torque. So basically if you enter a corner and the Attessa E-TS computer thinks you need assstance it can send upto 50% of torque to the front wheels to correct and stabilise the car. So yes it is rear wheel drive biased, which means until you really need it the car runs in rear wheel drive then has the option to start providing front torque depending on the situation. It does this by using hydraulic pressure in the transfer case to apply clamping pressure to wet clutch packs. The more pressure it applies, the more torque is transferred to the front wheels. It uses a fluid similar to automatic transmission fluid (ATF) to achieve this. Even for present day its a very advanced system and most people dont really understand how it works completely. I have a GTR and thats what my info is based on but im pretty sure the GTS-4 is the same system, however the Attessa E-TS is tuned differently for different models. Regards, Deren