Godzilla32

Shit yeah. I didnt even think of that! Haha, clean oil is ok... I'll just go away and convince myself of that... I got the new washers from Nissan for 40 bucks, and torqued the head down tonight. Hope everything is all good Looks like im waiting till the new year for my new garrett turbos from Slide Still only a month and a bit away i guess. Anyone know who i can get them off for $2500 sooner? After 2860r-5's

Nah nothing died im just fussy Yeah i got the part number from FAST and i will call 2morow. Thanks Geoff

Yeah. Would be strange if its not used anymore as the new turbo will still need coolant being flowed to and from it. Unless there is a braided line fitted or something. Generally the core has oil flowing through from top to bottom and coolant flowing through from one side to the other IE: horizontally through the core. They are normally fitted to the core with banjo/eye bolt fittings. I havent worked directly on the turbos fitted to RB25's, only on other areas so im not completely familiar with how they are plumbed. Anyway none of that really matters. My suggestion is to gain access to the source of the leak and find out whats needed to stop it. You may be able to use a small mirror to see it better.

On the interior fuse block its the fifth one accross from the left on the bottom row. Its a 10 amp fuse in the BATT section. The manual has an english translation of it.

A bearing knock is generally only there on startup before it gets sufficent oil pressure to fill the larger clearance. So you can pretty safely cross that off your list...which is a good thing. What you need to do is buy an automotive stethescope and you can then isollate the noise to where its actually coming from. They arent expensive and thats what we use at work to pin point all noises that are hard to find. Good tool shops will sell them. I know BSC sell them cheap too. About 30 bucks i think. Good luck Deren

That will be the coolant line to/from the turbo. Regardless if its in use anymore, at a guess the hose is prolly just perished and leaking. Replace the hose. Look for the highest point where u can see coolant and thats where it will be coming from. Deren

N1 vent part numbers are as follows: RH vent - 62256-06U00 LH vent - 62257-06U00 Deren

Hehe, the disease is spreading!

Door, pistons and rods, and headlight still available. Might sell both headlights if anyone needs a pair?

Still got vents for sale?

I just wish it was an N1...

Awesome. I require one as of yesterday!

Hey people, a few quick snaps of the cylinder head on the block. A little frustrated however, as i wasnt able to torque it down due to the fact i have misplaced the head bolt washers. I have a feeling i forgot to take them out of their homes before sending the head away. The oil helps them stick there even when removing the bolts themselves. So im going to buy some new ones monday and have them sent out to me ASAP. Note: Oil return tapped into the rear of the cylinder head. Deren

Haha, yeah i reckon i might. I will just make sure anyone who goes in it isnt covered in crap too!

Yeah had an accident in the silvia after we fitted a 2560r garrett, FMIC and wound up the boost to just under 1bar. Pity cuz it was going really well I may be back one day in the future. I want to come back, but i have recently become a proud father! So im not sure what will happen in regards to my living arrangements. Just have to wait and see. On another topic my parts arrived from Japan. I was able to then fit the new Cusco strut tops to the Apexi N1 dampers and fit them into the car. For the first time in about 18months i can no theoretically put the car back down on her wheels! I will need to bolt in the outer cv joints if i do plan to though, as without them it wont have anything holding the new wheel bearings together. They very quickly start to separate into halves and even if you do press them back into place 50% of the time they are pitted and are noisey. Something to watch out for! I sent my sump off to get bead blasted back to new finish. It was pretty clean after a hard scrub, but me being me, i had to have it perfect! Once it returns i will consider fitting new front diff bearings to be sure its quiet and then i can fit my new Tomei sump baffle and bolt it back onto my new engine! From there i can use my new Tomei metal head gasket to refit the cylinder head. The kit also came with metal manifold gaskets, throttle body gaskets, etc so they will be used along the way. Im close to having enough cash for the Garrett turbos now, but ive heard Aaron Slide may be out of stock?!? Have to enquire. That concludes the latest update. Deren

Other parts still available.

The fuel vapours vent through the charcoal canister. A line runs from your tank to the canister which is in the engine bay. At a guess id say there is a blockage somewhere along the line or the one way check valve in the vapour purge line near the tank is stuck closed. Also make sure the cap isnt supposed to be letting air in as the fuel is used up..

Thats the hose that gives the AAC valve (idle valve) air to bypass the throttle plate. Basically feeds air at idle, cuz without it no air would be able to enter the engine when the throttle is shut. Yes it will be leaking boost big time as it runs directly off your intake pipe. Replace it and i would hope most of your issues will be gone

If your talking to me, i will but it wont be for a long time. If you need a part number let me know and you can give them a call

Turbos sold but other bits still available.

Sorry guys decided not to sell.

The A/C compressor and P/S pump have been cleaned down, etch primed, and painted.

I paid the extra for mine and imported an immaculate, 100% dead stock, one owner car with very low km's. Thing is that didnt stop the front turbo coming to bits before i even registered it! Like they have said they are getting old now. However, the engine was still very strong with awesome compression. They are tougher than most people give them credit for. One blows cuz some guy threashed it with not enough oil or bad tune and then everyone thinks they are all about to go. Get a well maintained car and you will have little trouble. The problem is the less you pay the less you get. Good luck with it. Deren

Hmm, well considering how much ive poured into it...Lets just say i'd want alot LOL I think i will always keep it and hand it down. I just can't see myself ever getting rid of it after so much work and money. What do you think it would be worth one day? Theres no doubt that a dead stock, completely original from factory, never been touched example would fetch more, but thats not as much fun to drive

Haha...Hey guys, I havent got to the interior yet. It will be last so it doesnt get all messed up when nothing works once everything else is back together LOL I know for sure you can buy all the interior parts new, still in stock. Gotta love Nissan. I love how i can look up any little clip/bolt/sticker off FAST and give them the P/N and they can get it! I was so suprised to find the most basic things available then i just kept asking about little finicky things and they have rarely been unavailble. Infact i think only one thing was and that was a bracket that goes on the inner rear quarter panelling. Anyway most of my interior was in pretty immaculate condition. Just looking to replace the main dash section (big bubble unfortunately), rear upper trim pieces, RH lower trim piece, hand brake and gear shift boots (i'll go with custom leather), hand brake grip. I had planned to get a set of Nismo or perhaps the HKS Kansai floor mats to freshen it up even more. All the upholstry etc will be steam cleaned before refitting also. Anyway i just popped on to add some pics i may never have added of my freshened up A/C compressor and P/S pump. Im quite proud of these as i did them myself and even transferred stickers! Yes, i know im crazy but it just adds to the attention to detail/are you f#$%^&* serious factor. Thats what its all about for me.