Godzilla32

Like the other guys said, its pointless removing it. The car was designed to have one so leave it be. People seem hell bent on modifying things regardless of whether its an improvement or not

If the interior air sensor is disconnected you will only get hot air so my guess is that it will be either faulty or disconnected. If you find its connected try running the climate control diagnostic to see if its faulty. Common thing to find with your symptoms. The sensor is located on the center console facia behind where there is a small vent in it. Pull it off and you will see what i mean. If you need pics, i can arrange them. Deren

Charcoal canister doesnt save fuel. It merely filters the fuel vapours coming out of the breather of the fuel tank before purging it into the inlet manifold at an appropriate engine speed controlled via manifold vacuum. You dont need to replace it and its only got 2 hose clips, and one bolt to slip it out of its bracket.

Stock, i was going to clean up the mating areas myself but found that the extra lip on them isnt actually a big deal as its not flowing into the flat edge but instead over it the other way. If that makes any sense. I've had the inlet port matched and i've been told thats all thats necessary. I think if i had the money lying around i might get Tomei exhaust manifolds but seeing as i dont im quite happy to run with the strong stock cast manifolds as they will hold heat well and dont need to be wrapped or coated to perform well.

Yeah but i have a Tomei metal gasket kit already so the fitting kit isnt really necessary considering the expense. Besides its not hard to elongate a few holes.

I guess the numbers can catch you out if your not careful... Quite confusing isnt it! So it sounds as though the only thing that will require a change is the oil returns. Bolt hole elongation from memory. Once again thanks for the help guys.

Can only really be due to improper seal fitting. I recently got a new one from BSC, not fitted yet but im sure its going to be fine. Was only 15 bucks, nissan want about 100. Things to make sure are: you emeryed the crank surface the seal runs on to remove the groove. If its too deep from a hard seal then it will leak no matter what you do. Perhaps you could use a speedy sleeve if this is the case. Also check that your PCV valce isnt blocked and causing the sump to pressurise.

I did look at the HKS GT-SS turbos but after a comparison i found the garrett 2860-5 will flow more with nothing lost in response. A garrett 2560 is a turbo designed for the SR20DET. I fitted one about 6 months ago. I was planning to get a set of CES racing dump/front pipes, similar design to the trust ones. Its a combined dump/front pipe but its assembled in 3 pieces. Im a bit concerned now that they wont bolt upto the standard dump pipe flange design?!? Can anyone confirm this? I have my doubts that it will be an issue.. Better to be safe than sorry though. Who sells them for $1200 each? Keen to know.. Thanks guys for all your input Deren

Thanks for that anyway SLYNE. I think i'll just take your word for it Nismoid. Know of anyone who can do them for better than $2500? Thanks

Dr Drift is the guy to talk to about re-mapping your stock ECU. I was going to suggest him but then i saw his post

Ok. Thanks for that. I guess my stock capacity wouldnt help anymore either! Anyone else got an opinion?? Sounds as though the .64 is the way to go but maybe someone has a dyno graph for each? Thanks

As mentioned, you shoudl be careful with the stock turbine wheels. As if they are still stock ceramic items they commonly come apart and score the 3 bores its associated with. Anymore than 14psi is asking for trouble but i know from personal experience they will come apart with less. Get some steel wheel turbos

Hey everyone, Im possibly about to purchase a pair of Garrett 2860-5 turbos. Can anyone tell me the differences i will most notice with either 0.64 and 0.86 exhaust A/R's. At first i didnt realise but now i have been informed you can choose from the two A/R's on the exhaust housings. Keen to hear of what either will do to overall power capability and response. I have my guesses but it would be nice to hear from people who have actually tried and tested them. If anyone has any other turbo options with similar capabilities at a similar price i would also be interested in them too. I want to keep the twin setup with the stock manifolds. Thanks in advance, Deren

Im using the standard oil pump over N1. The N1 has a layered gearset which makes it more prone to cracking from vibrations caused by hitting the rev limiter hard with big power. Not an upgrade in my mind at all. I have fitted a JUN sump baffle to stop surge and plan to perhaps just over fill for track work. As far as 20% more flow goes with a JUN pump, im not sure thats really necessary. Providing you have good constant oil film pressure to the bearings and head whats the advantange of higher flow. I think the biggest gain with a Tomei or JUN pump is the billet gearset which is very strong and has a higher resistance to cracking. However $1200 for a 2nd hand Tomei pump was just getting too much. One of those oversize sumps would be nice but unless your going to be running times like the best of them, im not sure they're necessary either. Deren

Thanks mate, its actually going to be pretty potent. I had originally thought i would just build it up pretty stock but now the car is actually pretty well modified all over in nearly every area. Just doing it as i come to it and as my bank account will let me I have built the bottom end to handle big power so the only thing that will limit me to overall power output will be the turbos i choose. For now i will be running the stock fuel system but in time i will upgrade and really start pushing some serious numbers. Thinking maybe up around the 600-650 engine hp mark. Like i said, the turbos will be the limiting factor in the equation. Not to mention driveline breakages.. Fitted up the parts i mentioned in my last post. Fitted the new cam seals, bolted on the cam cover back plate and cam gears, fitted the timing belt, and got it all timed up. All still feels nice and smooth Tomorrow i will pick up my new front diff bearings and fit them at work. I have sand blasted the sump/front diff housing so it looks nice and new. I will bolt it on once i get the diff gears back in the housing and i bolt in the Tomei sump baffle. Next month i'll have my new Garrett turbos and they will be fitted up ASAP! From there i only need to save for the previously mentioned CES racing dump/front pipes. Once they are fitted i can put the engine back in its home, either with Nismo engine mounts or new factory items. Then it will be onto the gearbox. Need to reassemble it and fit it back into the car. Then i can drive it for the first time in well over 2 years Deren

Thanks mate! Really appreciate it I ended up getting another set of the cam bracket bolts within the same day i ordered them! So hardly had to wait at all. So now both cams are fitted with new genuine bracket bolts and torqued down to the correct tension. This weekend i will fit new cam seals, cam gears, timing belt, and get it all timed up correctly. Keep you all posted, Deren

Hey everyone, i havent added much lately because, well, not much has changed. I ordered 1 complete set of cam bracket bolts from nissan and they were only $43 to me. However when i went to clean the brackets and parts, the bolts that i thought i had kept separate seemed all mixed up. The one bolt i replaced last time (with a non genuine bolt) was in the inlet cam bag and i am certain i only over tightened the exhaust cam brackets last time. So it made no sense. Besides i went through the bolts and found stretched threads in both bags for both cams. So for now i have fitted up the inlet cam with the new set of bolts. I will order another set of bolts tomorrow morning. A few had to come from Japan so it can take upto a couple of weeks to arrive. See how we go. I have become very patient in this 2+ year build! I think i have mastered the art As far as everything else goes, im currently organising the painting of all the engine covers, plenum, pipes etc in the same Sparkling silver metallic (WV2) coarse variant. Should look very tidy! Yes im a sucker for silver Im waiting til january for my new Garrett turbos... Waiting/saving for the redone throttle bodies... Saving for CES racing dump/front pipes Im going to get a performance heat coating done on the CES pipes, should i extend it to the original exhaust manifolds? I was going to but then thought that the cast iron probably wouldn't benefit much from the coating... Deren

Could well be a relay as they will click. If it is a relay there is a reason for it to be operating. Best to do a diagnostic on the HICAS system. If you dont know how to download the workshop manual. Deren

Its the rear sealed panel on the car. Get it from nissan.

GTR's have it mounted the other way from factory. Why did they change it for the other models??

Ahh, good idea. I will try that, i know the bolt you are talking about. The hole is tapped into where the welsh plug originally went. Thanks for the tip. Deren

Hey guys, bit more of the engine together. Fitted up the inlet manifold and most of the secondary air system. The inlet manifold has been port matched to the head and the whole thing smoothed out. The combustion chambers have had some work done to improve flow. Head has all new guides, valve seats cut, stem seals and re-shimmed to factory specs. A problem i have found with the spot where the external oil return comes out of the head is that it will directly allign with the original gallery pipes that run accross the back of the head. Looks like they will have to be adjusted. Have a few new pics to show. Deren

Hey guys, im after the blue plug that goes to the air regulator on the engine wiring loom. Either i will buy the plug alone with sufficent wire to join in. Or i can buy the whole loom. If you have a badly damaged engine loom but the air regulator plug is undamaged please let me know. Many thanks, Deren

Thats for a BNR32. For some reason i have the figure $200 in my head when i think of them. Hope that was for a pair but i doubt it. I chose to go without the vents. Thanks anyway mate

I havent asked them yet actually. Thanks for that mate I'll check out the vent thread now.