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Everything posted by Godzilla32
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My Restoration
Godzilla32 replied to Godzilla32's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Yeah i'll let you guys know what i find out about the throttle bodies through the week. Deren -
My Restoration
Godzilla32 replied to Godzilla32's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Yeah i know, Geoff is a worry. Haha, he will know what i mean. In regards to the throttles, i've already spent a bit of cash on them trying to sort them out but i think i was ripped off by a failing business. John said he does alot of throttle work so im pretty confident he'll be able to help me out Cheers, Deren -
My Restoration
Godzilla32 replied to Godzilla32's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Ok finally the bottom end is together. Today me and GTRgeoff assembled the crank, rods and pistons. So basically i now have a freely rotating bottom end minus all the extras like oil and water pumps, head, sump, turbos etc. Here are a few pics of me and Geoff bolting it together. This week i'll be picking up my sump and cylinder head from JHH engineering. John at JHH has port matched the head and done the chambers. Down in Melbourne the head has also been fitted with all new guides, stem seals, pocket flowed, re-shimmed. JHH also setup an external oil return, its tapped into the back of the head and the side of the deep section of the sump (where the pick-up is). I've had the drillings in the sump opened up too, where the oil makes it way back to the deep section if it returns through the block. Now i just need to get myself a Tomei sump baffle and a new head gasket, possbily Cometic. Then i can bolt them both back on. Im also going to get John at JHH to check over my throttle bodies, as since i cleaned them i've always had an annoying high idle due to air leaks. Planning to order a pair of 2860-5's in the next few weeks Deren -
I've done a search and not found what im really after. I've got a rebored 20thou O/S (86.5mm) RB26 block and need a stock thickness metal head gasket that is good value for money. Who sells them without a huge pricetag. Looking to spend about $250 but hoping for good quality at the same time. Im not even sure what thickness is stock actually. I dont want to lower compression though. Regards, Deren
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My Restoration
Godzilla32 replied to Godzilla32's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Hey, sorry for the long delay between posts. I was struggling to get a piston ring filer at first but now its pretty much done so i'll be assembling the bottom end with GTRgeoff tomorrow. Posted pics of: Forged pistons ARP rods bolts Forged conrods Linished crank fitted with Jun crank collar Block on stand New main and big end bearings Deren -
Fs: R32 Gtr Parts
Godzilla32 replied to Godzilla32's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Please don't hesitate to ask about any parts listed or anything else anyone may want. Deren -
Someone Tell Me If This Is The Speedo Alert 4 R32
Godzilla32 replied to Stage2's topic in General Maintenance
Looks like it to me. I think mine was mounted under the lower half of the dash just above where your feet reach the pedals on the drivers side. -
About To Start Engine After Rebuild Help!
Godzilla32 replied to BlackR32's topic in General Maintenance
Coming from someone who doesnt even know how to spell the word 'bore' im not going to take your reply too seriously. The engineer (John at JHH) that has machined my 26 has built 3-4 RB's alone a week and clearly knows his stuff regarding high performance engines. So yes im quite confident to go off what he tells me to do. Being a mechanic myself i can tell when someone knows what they are talking about and know when not to listen to the comments like yours about aggreeing on using a syntheic based oil for running in an engine. A good quality oil is important in order to not wear other components such as bearings. Afterall the there is more to lubrication than just cylinder bores. A crap oil will not protect bearing surfaces as well as a quality oil does and will not resist the same pressures. By the way i didnt mean use ultra low engine rev's when loading it up. Normal driving rev's with varying loads. -
Im not as familiar with the 25 as i am with the 26. On the 26 it has a sender mounted under where your oil filter is. They very commonly read inaccurately on the 26's, so im hoping for your sake its the same deal on your engine. You need to get a master guage which will screw into where your oil pressure switch normally goes. Thats the safest way to check your oil pressure and know exactly what its reading. If you dont have one, take it to a garage and ask them to check it for you. Good luck mate Deren
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Fs: R32 Gtr Parts
Godzilla32 replied to Godzilla32's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
I do but i think i will be using it for awhile still...Ask me in 6 months lol. I may want to sell it then. If there is anything else you need dont hesitate to ask... Gimme a PM. Deren -
Thanks for the replies. Id spend $80-$100 on a pair of good condition ones.. Open to other options, looking for something to meet up nicely with my N1 skirts. Deren
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Im pretty sure tolulene is actually used an industrial solvent. Its not the only way to boost octane. Shell use it to help with cleaning carbon deposits. Go buy an octane booster from an auto shop..
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About To Start Engine After Rebuild Help!
Godzilla32 replied to BlackR32's topic in General Maintenance
I dont think thats the best way to describe it, nor is it the best idea to buy 'cheap' oil. Thats just ridiculous! Its not the right idea to purposely wear the engine. That is not whats reffered to as wearing in the engine. The idea is to bed in the rings correctly using the proper oil and proper driving style. A mineral based oil is best from what im told, deffinetly not synthetic! As previously mentioned there are specially formulated running in oils, but its best to consult the machine shop that did the work for you. A good idea is to remove all s/plugs and wind over the engine until the oil light goes out which means you have oil pressure up. As far as oil changes go my new forged pistons state to do a change of oil and filter after 500km and to give the engine some work during the first 20km. Im sure its a good idea to load up the engine for alot more km's but id say that the first 20km is the most crucial. By the way that doesnt mean lots of revs, keep the revs pretty low but make sure you use perhaps 4th gear and load it up up hills. They say going for a drive up through mountains is a good idea due to lots of climbing involved. I too am building up my new engine and will be going by exactly what my machinest tells me to do. Deren -
Searching for a pair of what seem to be factory fitted rear pods. Ive seen a pair on a R32 GTS4. Anyone with any rear pods to sell that will fit my R32 please let me know. Deren
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Hey im selling a few bits and pieces i no longer need. All parts are from my R32 GTR: Drivers side headlight $125 Set of six stock pistons and conrods RB26 - Excellent condition, only done 46,000kms $250 New front brake rotors. Were on car for very little time (approx 500km) then removed and remachined to zero run-out $180 Drivers door - Some damage but repairable $40 Pair of stock turbos (never run more than 12psi) $300 ono SOLD Passenger side front guard (aluminium) - Minor damage $50 SOLD Set of 4 excellent condition standard shock absorbers & springs - (Rear without top mounts) $100 SOLD Deren 0402 829 091 (If i don't answer leave a voicemail msg) [email protected]
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Foolish to consider any other model of skyline as an option. GTR is the only option! GTR 1/4 mile in stock trim = 13.0 seconds
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Check oil level for sure, but i still want to know if you have actually checked the sender??
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Wouldnt you wanna check the sender is actually giving the correct signal too??
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You can get a part number from the FAST software and Nissan will be able to sell them to you. You would be very suprised as to how much you can still buy brand new from Nissan (pretty much every part). Some bits are expensive and some are cheap, always worth asking. As for the bonnet spacing just use washers like previously mentioned.
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Very common. Im guessing R33 GTS-t? Fine to drive it till you fix it. If you give me your VIN i'll tell you the part numbers that you can give to Nissan. Either that or you can get aftermarket studs from somewhere like Repco etc.. Deren
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My Restoration
Godzilla32 replied to Godzilla32's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
The brakes? They are all original. I machined the rotors all round. Scuffed all the pads (save money). Carefully painted the calipers/rotors and filed back the logos. If you want new brakes go aftermarket. Nissan wont be cheap! -
Fair enough. By the way, i didnt mean you could identify what pump you had by the noise i was just saying mine is stock and its noisy. I aggree with age they are likely to get louder. I also noticed my car does a quick prime if you leave the car idling for extended periods. Its the exact same noise that you hear when you first switch on the ignition but only for a real short time. Can you explain to me how the transfer case works?
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Im pretty confident the fuel pump is the noisy one even when your talking about a stock item as mine does the same. Why would a transfer case pump be in operation at idle or with the ignition on only? They would only create pressure when you require front torque, thus locking up the clutch packs in the transfer case. A better way to test which it actually is, is to remove the fuel pump fuse and switch the ignition on, make sure you havnt had the ignition on for quite awhile as mentioned so you would normally get the long prime noise.
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Yeah give thread tech a call. We use them at work for a the real tough ones.. Deren
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Sweet good job mate.