malialipali

oooo you might struggle, with the iso harness and HU harness on top of the OEM you should get there. If you were in WA id lend you my pantorouter it would cut a perfect copy of a double din (or any shape /size you have a template for ) cutout in the original fascia

Non Bose should be straight up wire up. Or even better a Nissan--> ISO harness from Supercheap/Autobarn, the antenna adaptor is $9.99 from Autobarn. Pic of new metra dash kit and head unit. (the metra kit isnt a 100% perfect fit) , since the photo Ive clipped the surround trim in flush.

Another update . Went for a nice long drive last night (literally for the hell of it) . Im blown away at the sound improvement from just adding a new HU. The spare tyre sub is quite good for what it is. By separating the signal for the sub away from the stock amp and having control is simply sublime.

As Bob said the proper way would be to adjust the shoes on the handbrake first then tighten up the cable. You might get way with just tightening it up at the pedal. Also FWD cars (or Wrong Wheel Drive ) still have handbrake cables going to the rear. Just looks a little different. Good luck and let us know if it solves the noise , I know it was driving me nuts.

Thats how I initially diagnosed it , the flicking of the cable at the back was to confirm and test my cable tightening without having to go out for a drive. Its an easy fix there is a 10mm nut on the end of the cable at the top of the handbrake pedal. Grab a spanner and tighten up (you might need to remove the plastic under the steering wheel. (its tight in there) . Dont mind getting getting under it at all SAU has been a wealth of information for me so I do what I can in return. This is the cable you want to flick to hear the noise. ( Sorry for the crappy photo but it was just before 6 am when i took it, coffee still kicking in) this is looking at the cable with you head under the rear end from behind the rear wheel.

Ok these 100V outlets seem to be an aftermarket addition. On mine it works and its coming off the cigarette lighter bundle. I pulled the cig lighter fuse and tested no power at the outlet. This may or may not be same on yours judging how it was done.

UPDATE! Sound Glorious sound !!! Ended up going to Bunnings (couldn't wait for 11am for shops to open) bought 6 RCA ends and made up my own cables , soldered them into the ISO connector. Works absolutley perfectly and the , surprised actually how good it sounds. Gonna wire in the sub signal separately to have explicit control. Thank you all for your help - all I needed was confirmation there was a separate speaker amp in the end.

Hi Brad just confirmed all the wiring, the G35 schematic has different colours but the pinouts are correct. I've chucked the idea of hi-->lo--.high and just gonna use the low outs on the deck with RCA spliced into stock wiring. Id love to go all new wiring and speakers but quite time poor at the moment. The new deck is so I can listen to MP3s and nave BT calling. If my stacker hadnt died I would have just added BT via the AUX on the tv tuner. However I will next year run new speakers etc. My biggest issue was that I had not wired up the amp trigger wire.

Hi Matt and Kieren thank you This pointed me in the right direction , ive located a G35 wiring diagram where the wire colours/pinouts match. In the next three hours Im gonna locate the speaker amp and make sure it matches up. Jaycar opens in 4 hrs where I will go and buy the hi-->low line converters. I can see which wire is the remote to trigger the two amps as well. Confident I will get it to work as now I have a understanding of the bose setup. Which seems to be HU--> Lowline Out to Speaker Amp/ Sub Amp --> Speakers/Sub Will let you guys know what the outcome is

Yang I haven't forgotten you. In the middle of installing my new HU but have issues with no sound. (Ive asked for help here) When I have it all working Ill trace the wiring for you and let you know where it leads.

Hi All, Hope someone is kind enough to point me in the right direction. My metra dash kit arrived early this week. This morning I took it all apart swapped out the pop out screen and vents , and put the new head unit in its new space. Using the guides found here , I spliced the HU wiring in. Powers up but no sound. Check double check then triple check all ok . Removed splicing , went and got a Aerpro Nissan to ISO adapter. plugged it in (all wiring matches to what was previously done) Powers up , but no sound. Ok might be a dodgy head unit. Plug back in the old Bose tapedeck and stacker. Plays like it should. Triple check all my wiring again all ok, Pull out the 100% working JVC from my Liberty ( its gotta come out anyway) , Plug it in and no sound. Plug in the new JVC double din into Liberty plays like it should. At this point Im confused as heck. Is there a separate AMP with the Bose unit that powers the speakers? I'm struggling to see what I missed. Do i need low line converters between the new deck and factory loom for the speakers? I have the spare tyre sub too and would like to get it working (guessing splice RCA into existing signal wiring?) Any help at all greatly appreciated.

I have the 110V outlet, my G35 double din dash kit arrived last night so I will be doing the stereo install Saturday Ill happily trace the wiring colours back to the fuse box and put a multimeter across it to make sure. Let me know before Saturday if you dont work it out , ill put the time in figuring it out as ill have most of the dash apart.

Apologies for not responding promptly all. Thank you all for your replies. In the last few days I have stripped it all back checked every nut bolt split pin rubber and circlip , taken a steel brush to all the tyre treads. Checked in case if the steel straps on the recently changed CV boot became unraveled - nope still there all snug. Re-adjusted the brake shoes again, checked for play in bearings shafts swaybars and links. Even looked for a wheel weight touching as mentioned above. Nothing absolutely nothing out of place. Then this morning on the way to the office fttt ftt ftt ftt - driving me nuts of course , and about 5 km into the trip and it just stopped ........... what the hell. Anyway spent the last 90 min with the car on stands checked it all again - all looks good. Went round the block no noise. This is one weird gremlin that decided to go I guess. I can only speculate at the moment that cause the wheel bore is bigger than the hub (until my rings arrive) that the new rotors are offcentre when i do up the rear wheel - unlikely as there is nill vibration as per my seat vibration meter I hate noises in cars i.e. squeaky brakes , grinding bearings etc etc basically I cringe whenever I hear a clapped out falcodore drive past so this noise was seriously pissing me off. Glad its gone but not knowing what it was is equally as annoying now. Thank you all once again.

Ok this one is driving me batty. 2001 M35 141xxx on the clock Things done so far. - New rear rotors - New rear pads - Adjusted handbrake cable to stop clinking noise - Replaced inner front drivers cv boot - No play in bearings at all - New tyres on the front balanced and aligned all four (rears are at 90%) no flat spots bulges tears or repairs. - Hub centric rings on the way (car came with aftermarket 18s) - New front ball joints on the way - boots just started to split. I have a noise coming from the rear right (possibly front but hard to discern) its rhythmic with the speed of the car once per revolution frequency is directly proportional to speed, sounds like ffft ffft ffft ffft , almost like a nail in the tyre. Really prominent when driving next to a wall or similar. There is no vibrations no creaks no clunks. I have stripped each wheel back to the hub and checked and cleaned everything put it together , apart from the balljoints the the hub rings and the Nissan shaft ping when taking off everything looks to be in order. Can anyone point me in another direction? Im leaning towards ordering new rear bearings even though there is no noise from them no play no grinding whirring or humming. Thank you all in advance

I had a clink clunk clink from the back right every time I hit any bump. After 2 weeks of checking everything i could , stripping the back bumper bar and the boot interior and tightening everything! the click was still there. Untilllll it was a loose handbrake cable o.O, I got in and adjusted the shoes nicley and then tightened up the cable at the pedal. No more clinky clunky ring a ding ding. Lie down at the back and flick the handbrake cable sheath you could find its slapping about inside.

Sure thing! Excuse the 90 second iPad finger painting 1. Remove glovebox 2. Locate ECU 3. Unclip the connector from the ECU - pull down the black lever. 4. Unclip the lever by spreading it and pulling away 5. Remove the loom bundle cover (spread it with a flat blade screwdriver) 6. Unravel or skooch up the tape about 5 cm 7. Locate the pink/black trace wire - pin 55 ( the ECU pinout is on the forums here) , put a multimeter on the pin and prod the wire if unsure. 8. Cut and strip the pink/black wire , solder on lengths of wire for the switch. Lengths depend on how you will run it to the shifter box , I followed the existing wiring and drew it behind the deck. 9. Bundle in the new wiring and tape up to existing loom. Reassemble the connector and click it back on the ecu. 10. Slide off the shift knob and lift away the cover, put it aside (no need to unclip wiring) 11. The first plastic screw infront of the shift lever undo and use it to bore out the mounting hole on the microswitch http://www.jaycar.com.au/Electromechanical-Components/Switches/Micro-Switches/SPDT-Miniature-Microswitch/p/SM1038( shows as $4.95 online but I paid 3 bucks ) 12. Bend up the feeler , can be done with fingers or long nose pliers - careful not to rip it off the switch. 13. Test fit with the longer plastic screw 14. Solder up as per photo above and diagram. Fix it back in place make sure that the switch closes when in Park. 15. Fire up the car (make sure it works ) throw a multimeter/test light across the pins and tap the brake - test there is no 12v on the other side by moving the shifter. Reassemble everything (maybe change your AC filter as summer is coming ) My fascia kit is on its way from Amazon US , when I install a new HU I will wrap and bundle the wiring properly , put some hotglue under the switch and over the soldered pins on the switch. For neatness and safety. Shitty wiring diagram below. I have a CertIV in electronics but honestly couldn't be bothered firing up XCircuit ( 50+ hrs in the office). Ill happily do this for WA members just supply a switch and understand my schedule is hectic and no warranties apply as its a freebie.

Hi Folks, an update. Done about 800km so far - no issues no codes thrown, and I can say with hand on heart that there is definite improvement on take off. I actually feel confident doing tight handers with on coming traffic knowing I have proper throttle response. For 3 bucks and about 40 min of my time figuring out the best way to bend the switch feeler etc this was a very worthwhile mod.

From what im reading the ECU will throw a code in a few 100 km if I haven't done it right. I measured and I have 12V over the switch when closed in Park with foot on the brake. Will see in a week or so. Also if you guys want slightly more sensitive manual shift you can bend the feelers on the microswitches out a little. Did this on a J31 maxima my mum wanted a sportier shift .

Did my inner CV boot today and brake cut mod. Jaycar $3 microswitch some bending of the feeler and a longer plastic screw to replace the one i took out of the shifter housing.

Picked her up Saturday after 3 days of negotiating. Spent the weekend cleaning and servicing it replacing headlight globes and remedying the clusterflap the headlight alignment was. Big upgrade from my previous car.