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NismoR34

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  1. Lodgement Postcode: 3000 Destination Postcode: 2000 Parcel Weight: Up to 10.25 kg Service Regular Parcel / Express Post Parcel Postal Charge $7.00 / $9.30 Cost Per Kilogram $0.50 / $2.00 Delivery Time 2nd Business Day / Guaranteed Next Business Day (if posted on any business day Monday to Friday in accordance with the conditions set out on the label.) Total Charge $12.50 / $31.30
  2. log onto auspost website and you can run a quote there, with the weight etc. from what i hear they are reasonably priced "as couriers" edit: http://www1.auspost.com.au/pac/
  3. Jamezilla: how much did it set you back [if you dont mind me asking]? How many pages in it? I know they are advertised at around $50 but isnt that in NZ dollars? Then of course freight would also need to be added for shipping to here...? Cheers!
  4. K-mart - $6.50 approx. The brand is Trend I think It is nifty
  5. /having a long hard think now you are talking about ic I assume /wonders what me was doing posting at 2:36am :dazed: arent pineapples supposed to be yellow ok seriously now, is that gtr cooler from a 32? what are the dimensions? 600x300x75 ?
  6. expensive? In Vic its usually cheaper for me than Optimax. I have heard its made here though so you guys would pay more in transport costs - but at least you can get Ultimate / 98 octane fuel, not everyone can get it Aust wide. Prices are normally: Ultimate - maximum of 6.5cpl dearer than unleaded Optimax - maximum of 8.5cpl dearer than unleaded Both s/stations are usually the same advertised price so Ultimate is normally around 2cpl cheaper! Just my 2c worth
  7. I spoke to a guy from Nissan spare parts who confirmed the Z145a is ok for my car too It fits perfectly and doesnt seem to be any leaks since fitting yesterday. I should also add the change pan I bought holds up to 8 litres and has a post to drain the filter plus room to hold some tools and the sump bolt ~ handy! Mine actually spat out 5 Litres of oil, perhaps it was overfilled or just a bit bigger than 33 capacity.. My sump bolt must have been fastened by Arnie Schwarzinator - damn it was tight!
  8. geez u gotta be quick these days. let me know if A. it falls through and B. if you think they will fit my car! hmmm intercooler - timing isnt good 4 me otherwise I would make u an offer you couldnt resist Ni!
  9. Me saying thanks too! Just changed my oil and filter today and this thread certainly helped me do it without a fuss. Oil: Martini 10W40 synthetic 5L $20.90 from Filter: Valvoline z145a $7.67 from k-mart Oil Change Pan: $6.49 from k-mart J/Grip Oil wrench: $5.09 from k-mart ~ didnt end up using it Total cost of job = $40.15c Funny thing was the filter I pulled off [jap brand] was smaller than the z145a - weird, anything to be concenred about? I have assumed that the 34 uses the same as 33 so either the wrong one was on there OR the wrong one is NOW on there? HELP! Doesnt seem to be any leaks though. Also, guys dont forget to record on paper your odometer kms and the date you changed the oil / filter ~ this will be valuable info for the next one - sounds obvious but its easy to forget. Valvoline filter box has a tear off card specifically for this. Cheers.
  10. I know what you're saying Rob but I tend to disagree. Rev210's car has a stock turbo, intercooler etc. With only boost and safc I doubt any r33 could record 208Kw at the tyres on a properly calibrated dyno...
  11. ok, that is definately in the normal range for a stock 34! Mine used to be like that too Maybe you should organise a dyno run dude, get them to check your CAS [crank angle sensor] timing and listen for detonation while your there. If it doesnt pull around 150+ kilowatts then there may be something wrong. Mine with some minor mods recorded 182kw. Also what type of fuel do you use? If you put normal unleaded [89-93 ron] or even so-called 'premium' unleaded [93-95 ron] in your car this could cause problems like timing retardation or detonation. You definately need to get the car looked at if its not running like it should ~ which is ~ fast! I only use BP Ultimate - 98+ octane.
  12. Hmm, I only had one wrx try to race but I stuffed up take off and decided it wasnt worth trying to chase. Only had my car for a few weeks at the time. Bring it on I say Lets organise a major Skyline Vs other turbo / import cars drag event - @ calder I mean, b4 anyone gets all legal on me And settle the BS once and for all!
  13. Black Otherwise I would have bought a different coloured one! White is nice but I already had a white car. Titanium 34 isnt bad either... I see too many burgandy 33's - gee their almost like commodores now he he I agree about rain etc but mine mostly garaged and avoid rain where possible. Bayside blue is nice also ~ there all pretty good [factory colours]
  14. NismoR34

    Demerit Points

    Interesting subject! Have you guys seen the way the police and ambulances fly down a very crowded chapel st on a friday or saturday night? Very stupid indeed - its only a matter of time before they hit [or worse kill] someone imo. A marked car did it tonight, he was cruising down the middle of the road with lights & siren on doing approx 50/60 km/h then he plants the foot and the V8 engine came alive - I witnessed several pedestrians run for cover, very silly indeed. Also moments later an unmarked police car [silver VT / VX commodore V8] pulled up a camry [right in front of where I was sitting] for something and blocked half the traffic from getting past - even the tram driver was dinging his bell. I forgot to mention the best part, in the 10-15mins he was "doing his job" his flashing lights were not even on! [did have hazards flashing though - not good enough I say] And the same cop actually shoved his way through the traffic to do a u-turn without using his flashing lights - and would you believe people actually moved for him [remember an unmarked car with no visual sign of being Police, could have been a security guard that wears similar shirt etc imo] - a Black supra even reversed to get out of his way ~ I wouldnt have. AFAIK they must have their lights ON and most cases siren too if in pursuit, let alone a street FULL of cars & people traffic. After u-turn was completed then he baulk around 2 cars like some slalom event THEN finally hits the flashing lights and siren and punches it into hyperspeed! - again not good enough imo. Hopefully the authorities are reading THIS post! Yes, there is still more [this one is fairly minor but for the ricers out there, this may get your back up]. A marked Divisional van indicating to turn left from a side st on to chapel was actually emmitting a WHITE colored indicator from the rear! Surely WHITE is only allowed for reverse lights at the back of a car? It looked as thought the lens was broken - thus an un-roadworthy vehicle hmm All of this over just one latte *shrugs*
  15. Good to hear - except for the pinging of course.
  16. cbf sifting through 120 posts to check, but wouldnt it be fair to get a dyno figure of the "current" state of tune, after all this is the state of tune you recorded your times in. No cheating!
  17. ic - now that makes a lot more sense than I first thought.
  18. Fair enough, thanks.
  19. well unfortunately [for me] mine are the original ones from memory - will double check though. What a load of crap though - so the ADR states that the factory belts are good enough, but make them put new ones in - just to piss people off! That would be the part of the local "big 4" involvment I guess...
  20. Erik, if you are going to modify stuff [ie airfilter] do the dyno FIRST! Its better to test as-is. GTS-t VSPEC: no probs mate. So what measurment is used for the 33? I never had a close look when testing them - too busy keeping it str8 [with dealer sitting next to me]. Useless fact #101: The "0" reading on the 34 guage [see pic above] is neither boost nor vacuum - which sits at halfway point between -700 mmhg [vacuum] and +1 kg/cm2 [boost]. Erik you must be hitting the 1/2 mark between 0 and +1, one post you said 3/4 another post u said 1/2 - so which is it? Just trying to work out if your boost is in the normal range or not!
  21. just back from vicroads website and it seems that current cost is $486.50 Made up of $140 Registration Fee - which has NOT changed for a few years! TAC Premium [this is the killer] $346.50 which includes $31.50 GST, this is the one that keeps climbing up and up and up The TAC premium also has high/medium/low categories, which I seem to always be in high! Which doesnt make ANY sense because with my Comprehensive car insurance [and house ins.] I am not in a high-risk area. I am not 100% on what the "high/medium/low" refers to - they dont elaborate, funny that. hmm I think I may have found a couple of loop holes whilst browsing their site...will investigate further and if there is money to be saved I will let you guys know - unless you are happy to keep lining the pollies pockets? /end not so pessimistic but more realistic rant.
  22. I think its a lot closer to $500 now - this applies to melb only of course, rural areas are cheaper, which sux [to me]. Used to have HCC which takes off the $140 registration, gee i miss that! I used to claim travelling to and from work when I was dee-jaying, claimed the max each year of 5000kms @ 60 odd cents. gee i miss that too... Anyone got a time traveller handy /end pessimistic rant.
  23. Adrian, did you notice any sound difference when adding the highflow cat? Louder?
  24. In attempt to clarify the "seatbelt" issue I recently came across this info from an importers website [http://www.upimports.com.au] "Seatbelts - All seatbelts and buckles replaced with ADR approved belts. Post 1996 vehicles fitted with genuine belts." This would explain my car having factory belts, me is happy now And anyone with post 96 vehicles will be able to easily find out there month/year of manufacture from the seatbelt tag! Cheers.
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