toby19

We Need Your Help In Identifying P-Plater Who Attacked Motorist Were you a witness to a “Road Rage” incident on Wednesday night (1 September 2004) at around 7:00 pm? A P-Plate driver driving a Mitsubishi Lancer attacked another motorist at the corner of Richmond Road and Woodcroft Drive in WOODCROFT with a police type baton. The other motorist was driving a Nissan Skyline. The driver of the Nissan was with his 9 year old daughter at the time of the incident. The driver sustained arm, chest and leg injuries as a result of the attack. The vehicle was also damaged in the incident. If you were a witness to this unfortunate incident, could you please contact Blacktown Police on 9671 9199. Does anyone know where I could get a rear windscreen for an R34 and how much? Thanks.

Coxy, Believe me, e-manage would have to be your best bet at the moment. Ring up Peter at Advan Performance in Silverwater. He installed one for me including a Profec E-01 electronic boost controller. So far, so good. Check out Serious Performance 7 (white R34 with 220 kw). Now it's up to approx 270 kw

I had NGK iridiums with 1.1 for a while then changed them to BCP6RES with .8 gap they were ok for a while...until i fouled the damn plugs. What I did was to re-gap (really carefully) the iridiums to 0.7 mm. I've never looked back since. The car is driving superb. ...I want more power though.

Sounds fantastic to me! More kilowatts in th making!

Some questions: how different are z32 afms compared to factory r34 afms? what exactly do they do differently to the factory ones? would swapping these with the factory ones a simple procedure? do i need any adaptors at all? how much are these brand new and where are these available? other wise can these be bought second hand? thanks

:confused: I always seem to confuse others whenever I post... The air flow meter was definitely maxing out hence the power cut: too much air too little fuel. There is the danger of detonation but that is fixed by adding a bit more fuel where its needed through the injector control map of e-manage. The boost limiter cut feature of e-manage "tricks" the ecu into thinking that the AFM has not maxxed-out yet but in reality more air is being pushed through (dangerous). Therefore, this situation needed to be compensated by adding more fuel.

Definitely the next thing lined up

My car was tuned in June and we managed to extract 178 rwkw and 408 Nm. The problem then (and partly that was because the guy was not familiar with e-manage features) was that when boost gets up to the 13.5+ psi (0.93 bar) mark the engine cuts out. Differing theories on what caused this include spark plugs, coil packs, injectors maxing out, boost limiter. I've just recently played around with the e-manage and found a feature that is able to eliminate boost cut by clamping the air flow meter signal at the rpm point where boost cut occurs. The boost cut has now gone and I've just run up to 14.7 psi (1.04 bar)! Good thing these computers.

Thanks...I appreciate your response

Hey guys, Just a quick question...is it easy to replace 32 GTR oil sump with baffled sump? If so, can anyone teach me please. A mate of mine's just bought a GTR and he takes several cars to EC every month. He wants to change the sump for this to prep the car for track use... Please...anyone?

Stickers, real or fake, rice up a car

If you've seen the white R34 that ran against the 300 kw XR6 T in Serious Performance 7... that's a product of Advan. Peter is a good guy

I regapped my iridiums to 0.8mm recently. Changed my 0.8mm copper BCP6RES. Just wanted to find out if it can be done. Seems to be running ok so far

What do you guys think?

Groundrun, Not very good photos but you will see that engine bay looks very stock. Both intake and outflow pipes are directed towards the same side. The outflow pipe is run from lefthand side of fmic through the bottom onto the right side. Cooler fits perfectly

Groundrun, Trust FMIC was designed specifically for the 34. No adjustments needed, body kit needs no cutting. pipes follow stock flow (cold air outflow is diverted to bottom of cooler to meet with stock throttle intake pipe. No hassles. With plug gap, like I said before 0.8mm seems to be the optimum for a mildly tuned car. Try it, it's not that expensive. Abo Bob, I will be using 1.0 bar on stock turbo. Greddy E-01 has 4 boost settings: off-.55 bar (7.9 psi) which is the factory boost, low, high and over-take boost ( duration of which can be timed from 1sec upwards). I will be setting low boost at .7 bar (10.2 psi), high boost at .8 bar (11.6 psi) and over-take boost at 1.0 bar for 30 seconds (good for short spurts).

I'm chasing at least 200 rwkw tomorrow. Mods incl emanage, e-01 boost controller, hks split dump, hks 3" front, high flow cat, hks 3.5 cat back, trust fmic, k&n filter. Tuner did preliminary air/fuel tune on Sat and got 48 extra rwhp (from 190 to 238). In kw terms that's an increase from 141.8 rwkw to 177.5 at .80 bar (11.6 psi). Misfiring at around 4500 rpm up. Could not tweak air/fuel ratios beyond 4500 rpm. He asked me to change the plugs. I did that on Sun...NGK iridiums were replaced with NGK BCP6RES (.8mm gap). I had a heated argument with sales person at local Repco branch when he insisted that R34s do not use cheap plugs. I just asked him to shut up and give me the cheap plugs (geez this website is really very helpful). Amazing result! Engine now revs smoothly all the way up to redline. So, I'm after an extra 32 rwhp (23.8 rwkw) to bring power up to 270 rwhp (201.4 rwkw). Do you guys think it's achievable with the rest of the rev range from 4500 available for tweaking? (I was thinking of boosting it up to 1.0 bar).

Just a query...why do you need standard set?

I have a full set from a 99 model. Will sell for $300. Send me a pm

I've actually finished the game already. Got it on Friday (the day it was released) Fantastic teaser for the real one! You can feel the speed more compared to GT3.

Superspit, There should be no real problem other than the head spinning effect of fuel fumes getting into the cabin. It would be best to get the problem fixed.

This problem can easily be solved. You see, as part of the compliance process, the whole fuel intake pipe (including the cap) is supposed to be changed so that it becomes compatible with Aussie pump nozzles. There's quite a few of these workshops that do dodgy jobs in modifying these things. I'm pretty sure your intake pipe is cracked or has a hole thus the fuel tank could not hold pressure. Take this out and have a better one made or get it sealed properly. You will eventually get the Pshhhhhhh sound once this pipe is sealed.

Wish it was!

I've seen it and I recommend it!

Boner, My GTT is a white one (two door)