Ed.williams5

Hey guys back at it again trying to solve some problems. Was driving the car the other day and ended up having it die on me while sitting at a stop light. No lights came on only thing that happened was the idle dropped down to around 400 rpm and when I gave it a little throttle to bring the revs back up it died. Went to restart the car and had a very slow crank, first thought was the alternator must have finally home bad. So I got the car home and put it on my trickle charger overnight. Tested my battery the next day and voltage was 13.2 load tested with a carbon stack tester and it passed with flying colors. Now when I went to crank to start the car it still cranked very slow and wouldn't start without having a charger on it. Once it was running checked alternator at idle and I'm getting 13.77 volts. Next thought was possibly a bad ground which I ruled out by using 2/0 cable with eyelets from batt - to engine block, ground is good. Went checking voltage drop while cranking battery is dropping from 13.2 volts down to 10.1. My question is has anyone ever had a bad starter that would still crank or cause the battery to discharge while driving around? Synopsis: Car died and wouldn't start Charged and load tested battery - it's good Alternator putting out 13.77v at idle Solid ground (verified) 3v voltage drop while cranking

Update: Don't know why I didn't do it sooner lol. Hooked up my laptop and pulled codes and a datalog. Had 3 codes 2 tps codes from when I was adjusting timing and 1 engine overheat code. Car was running in limp mode with as safety from ECU. Cleared all codes and car runs perfect once again. Was also able to verify my timing through the haltech which is right at 18* base so may go back and adjust it down ever so slightly to 15*. Thanks for all the suggestions and help everyone!

I'll look into that next kiwi. I am running ls coils at the moment however I was thinking and wonder if I hook up to my Ecu if it maybe can point me toward the issue too (running haltech platinum pro)

So an update: Car idles but sounds like it has a miss. I went ahead and replaced the coolant temp sensor thinking that may be the issue however even with the replacement it's still running like crap. I made sure that car is timed correctly at 15* btdc with tps unplugged, I did notice however when adjusting timing nothing really clears the stumble up whether I advance or retard the timing. I may see if I can find a known working cas to see if that solves the issue. Either way I know it has to be something electrical because it literally started running like crap at the flick of a switch.

89cal thanks for the info, after looking around more I had kinda thought maybe that was the case.

My car has a series one CAS on it right now even though it is a s2 rb25? Not sure if it's has anything do with it as the car was running fine before.

Not much as I pulled my radiator before pulling the pump so the system was pretty much fully drained

Is it possible in having issues with my CAS?

Got the water pump and timing belt replaced, ended up just keeping timing marks aligned in stock orientation as fsm says. Weird thing happened though. After finishing job I started the car to burp the cooling system, all was well started fine and idles smooth, however once it got to operating temp it's like a switch flipped...idle was super rough and when given throttle would miss and sputter. I made sure all alignment marks were correct when I buttoned it up and the car ran perfectly for around 15 minutes. I can't figure out what the issue is. I let the car cool down and even on a cold start its running rough. Any suggestions?

Yeah kiwi that's what I thought also but upon further looking at it it had all timing marks lined up so I was mistaken >.<

Just an update have come to the conclusion that this is the module for the automatic spoiler which has since been removed from my car. Will go through and remove when I start cleaning up the wiring here. This job has gotten pushed back as I need to do the water pump first, however I will keep you guys updated when I tackle this.

Hey guys I started pulling everything to do my water pump today and have gotten to pulling the timing belt. I have the cam marks lined up for the intake and crank however my exhaust cam is advanced by 1 tooth. I have searched a lot and read you can gain mid range by doing this. What is troubling me is if I retard the exhaust cam and make it so all the marks line up correctly is this going to throw off my tune? Will this make any other differences that I should be aware of? Mod list in signature any information appreciated.

These are photos of the module I'm trying to figure out the purpose of

Trident fuses and relays are labeled ignition and fuel pump

Yeah I think you may right shoota...at least all the engine stuff is ran through the haltech just have to figure out the rest of the jumbled mess...I was unable to disconnect some and untangle at least

Yes im aware I have done a lot of high horsepower builds in the past with other imports this is just my first skyline, so I'm well aware of what the haltech is and its capabilities. Sorry I should have included that in my original post appreciate the help though

Just an update I was able to pull the part number off the box and Google the part number, turns out it's the body control module...I wasn't aware that these cars being as old as they are had body control modules.

There is also a small square metal box looks oem that I'm trying to figure out what it's purpose is

Hey everyone new member here who has been lurking around reading up for a while however now I finally need to post and hopefully you all can help. I have recently purchased a 1990 skyline gtst with an rb25 motor and trans swapped in. My question is does anyone have or know where I can find a wiring schematic for the wiring around the Ecu? I will attach the photos of what I'm dealing with and trying to sort out, thanks in advance.