Ed.williams5

R32 Sideview mirror shakesites while driving Hey guys I noticed the other day while driving that my driver side wing/sideview mirror shakes while driving. It's not the glass that's loose it's the actual folding mirror that is loose. I searched and read some people have success opening and closing the mirrors and that locks it out solid however I didn't have luck with that. Is there screws inside that can be tightened up or something that can be done so it's stops shaking while driving? It works it's just annoying not being able to see steadily out of the mirror. Just for clarification the mirror moves forward and backward through its sweep.

Your best bet is go and have stainless line made up.long enough to go from clunch master down to slave then just have to worry about one.

High rpm misfire first place I would go to is plugs. Then to coil packs and ignitor if that didn't fix it. When you get the high rpm misfire is it only WOT or are you able to Rev past at partial throttle with no issue?

I'd personally go with a gt3071. They flow very close to the same and it will bolt in not having to try and switch over to t25. Red- gtx2867r t25 Blue- gt3071 w/ billet wheel t3

If you're burning oil you'd probably be better off buying a used long block and rebuilding it then just running yours till it blows. Burning oil means pistons rings are on their way out...which you should (really need to) rehone the block and head to do. I personally wouldn't see the point in throwing new bearings into a motor that is going to need to be apart not too far down the line

Here is the tutorial for bleeding the slave cylinder. Also what I did was pulled the slave off the trans. cracked the bleeder and pushed the plunger all the way in, hold all the way in and then close bleeder and plunger will slowly return back...did that a couple times and never had an issue since.

Awesome thanks sin!

I will check it out thank you

Gts4 production info Well guys I recently found a super clean th1 gts-4 and worked out a deal with the guy the do a straight trade for my rb25 swapped gtst. I've done some searching around and have found that in 1990 5991 gts4 were produced my question is does anybody know if there is a breakdown on how many were done in each color? I'm just kind of curious as to how many were produced as I know not many went with the dark blue pearl.

Yes I have kiwi I ohmed it out according to that it's good the part the I don't understand is where it says with plate closed it should read 4.2 to 5.2v closed. It then says keeps measuring as you open and should increase smoothly to 4.1-4.6v. So obviously the closed voltage is a typo. I do have more then the specified voltage with the throttle plate open which is why I'm leaning towards the tps being bad. Seems like I always get you to respond hah. Thanks for the help is much appreciated ^^

Update: Pulled connector apart and verified that terminals have good connection. back probed with meter and with throttle plate closed got .49v however occasionally it will drop and read no voltage until I slowly move the plate open. When throttle plate is opened WOT I had a max reading of 5.02v. Thinking the TPS must be bad since voltage is high and there is an occasional dead spot on the potentiometer when at idle position.

So now went through with my haltech to read voltages at idle and wot and I'm getting 0.00v...Looking like I need a new TPS need to ohm it out to be sure though

Rb25 tps question...yes I've searched need clarity Hi guys I've been searching on the forum and I am getting mixed info on what the tps for an rp25 should be set at for WOT. I adjusted throttle plate closed to 0.50v and when I check WOT I'm reading like 4.1-4.2v I searched and found a thread saying this was correct however another person said that's incorrect and it should be same as rb20.. 0.50 closed and 4.5 wide open. Can one of the guru set me straight on this please?

That's what had my confused kiwi. As the photo shows its just a regular elbow which goes to a 3" collector then to the middle section which is two separate pipes. These then merge back together and collect into a 3" collector where it mates to the test pipe/tail pipe section. My only thought is maybe this is done for clearance? Either way I may start looking for a different downpipe option which is just straight 3" from the 5 bolt turbo flange to the test pipe

Sorry didn't realize my phone had autocorrect to the wrong words kiwi. Yes thay was my question odd thing is my turbo elbow is not split I will see if I can get a photo.

Divorced downpipe and turbo elbow Hi guys I noticed on my car that it had a divorced downpipe/turbo elbow. I am just curious what is the bend fit if any of a divorced vs a regular 3" pipe.

Perfect that makes total sense thanks for the clarification

Help with R32 sensor identification. Pics included! Hey guys found this sensor hanging down between my rad and intercooler and curious if anyone can tell me what it is. It doesn't seem to affect the car as I can unplug it with engine running and no change or lights. Any help is greatly appreciated.

I'll check both out thanks for the info

Hmm good to know...I'll see what I can do about replacing it

Nah no worries...that's why I'm posting here to find out, that's the turbo that came on the car. Do these have flow issues or something?

I would make sure before you clear it that you use a wax/grease remover and a tack cloth or something that wont leave a lint behind, that way you can ensure that it bonds properly. And wow didn't realize this post was so old, sorry for bringing an old one back to life guys >.<

HKS2540 on rb25 ?'s My current setup is a semi build rb25 with pistons/rods and a stock head. I have an HKS2540 and running Nismo 555cc injectors. I currently am making 313whp (233kw) and 254wtq @ 15psi. Doesn't this seem really low for the boost level? I will attach a dyno sheet and let you guys have a look but just feel like this is way off.