Ed.williams5

You could just rev the car with the gearbox in neutral to test your friends diagnosis. I would be willing to bet as stated previously in the comments that you have a timing issue though. If in doubt always go back to the last repair that was made before the car started running like crap.

Lol we all know the 33 was when the designers were on break...takes time to think of something good looking again after doing the 32...take a break then they came back with the 34 hah...To each their own everyone has different preferences but we all can't deny or at least I can't deny that one of the main reason I bought my car was for the beautiful sounds of the RB

Hmm alright maybe I'll just have my buddy bring one of the wheels over and put it on and see how bad it is...literally 5 minutes worth of work

Very cool site that helps a ton thank you

That's what I needed to know hah thank you

Wheel fitment question Have a 91 r32 gtst Trying to run 18x9.5 +20 with 265/35/18 on all 4 corners. Is this going to rub like crazy? Current setup is as follows: 17x7 +47 215/45/17 and 15mm spacer up front. 17x8 +47 235/45/17 in back Admin this is cross posted in the wheel fitment sticky but seems like there's not much traffic there so wanted to try a new thread to see if I could get some Info. Please delete if needed.

I'm sure this has been beat to death but after searching and not having luck figured this would be the thread to ask my fitment question on. Have a 91 r32 gtst Trying to run 18x9.5 +20 with 265/35/18 on all 4 corners. Is this going to rub like crazy? Current setup is as follows: 17x7 +47 215/45/17 and 15mm spacer up front. 17x8 +47 235/45/17 in back

Hah thanks

Also if I wasn't messing around on the laptop in the haltech software I would have never known p0123 was even present. Figured this would cause driveability issues?

There anyone who's knows what the factory spec for TPS voltage range for rb25 s2? I keep getting a code for high tps voltage and want to see if I can adjust it to get it to the proper spec. Thanks in advance!

The 15w40 should be fine as long as you live in a warmer climate and give it plenty of time to warm up before beating on the car...on first starts your lifters will probably be super loud. I'm planning to move up to 10w40 from 10w30 next oil change but I also live in a place where it averages 115*(43c).

So just an update for anyone following this....went through and cleaned up a huge rats nest of wiring in my pass footwell area and it ended up fixing my issue. Found a bunch of shitty grounds, harnesses for relays with pins falling out and a few bad connections on batt + wires.

Gonna do the direct feed wiring for the pump today and run it off batt voltage with a relay just want to make sure the white wire with purple tracer is signal wire from pcm

It was the starter that was burnt up

More info: Pulled the fuel cage and verified my pump is good which it is Blue wire with red tracer is ground for pump (this is grounded to chassis on side of boot) White with purple tracer is 12v power to pump Black is ground Need to figure out which is fuel level sender and what is the trigger wire for pump

So all skyline have the fuel pump control module? Where are they located on the gtst dose? I jumpered the relay and checked and have voltage on both pin 3 and 5 however the pump still doesn't kick on. I did see about wiring the pump straight to batt power which wouldn't horrible as my battery is already relocated to the boot. My issue is with the relay jumpered the pump should be turning on. The blue wire with red tracer at the pumo harness connector should be power correct?

Kiwi I was under the impression that only the gtr's had the fuel pump control module, am I incorrect on this? Also I checked the fuel pump relay in the boot and it is working properly. I checked the connector and it only has 5.5 volts at the connector with the key on which seems low. Any suggestions?

Anybody that can shed some light on the diagram for this connector? It's the harness to fuel pump

So I finally got one issue sorted out and replaced a bad starter. Now I've ran into another issue For some reason my fuel pump isn't getting signal to kick on. I checked at the harness plug at the access panel and have battery voltage and another pin is running like 8.5 volts. Do the r32 have an inertia switch or something to kick fuel delivery off? Had the car towed home and now can't get it to start. I've pulled fuel feed off rail and with key on there is no fuel coming from feed. Checked fuel pump fuse under driver dash, fuel pump and ign relays and checked for power at the fuel pump connector. What else am I missing?

Well verified the starter does work. Now onto figuring out more problems which I will create a new thread

Do you know for sure whether it's the temp blend or mode actuator?

So I verified what trident stated is what my starter is doing...brass bushing the armature rides in is worn out and is letting it rub across the magnets in the casing while spinning when it sees a load. Now for a new question I read that you can use a starter from a 67 Datsun 411 part number 16210. I got one of the and all the bolt holespecially and everything line up casing is a little bigger but no issues. I check the teeth on my old starter and it is 11 tooth the 16210 only has 9...is this going to be an issue? Seems like the gear count would have to be the same for it to not chew up the flywheel. Could someone running this maybe chime in and verify it's not going to chew up the flywheel?

Trident that is what I'm leaning towards at this point...the fact of the burnt electrical leads me to believe the starter may be the root cause of my issues. I will post updates after I test the starter tomorrow though

Well got the starter pulled and first thing I noticed is it smells like burnt up electrical, motor still spins freely but obviously solenoid is shot. Will replace and keep you guys posted on outcome

Got a quote today for a starter at $50 so going to replace anyway for good measure