DaymoR32
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Posts posted by DaymoR32
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1 minute ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Congratulations in advance
wen baby?
probably 9 months after the wedding 😆
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27 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
sounds like you are super close, either the air gap is out OR the trigger arming voltage is too high.
In NSP, just plot the trigger voltage vs. RPM vs. time and when you crank it you'll see what it reaching, adjust the trigger arming to suit
next time i have a full weekend i'll have another play, currently one month away from wedding so have no free time...
Thanks for the pointers though,
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On 4/19/2024 at 10:45 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
You can just swap the pins at the CAS connector side.
You could go old school and use a test light to see which pin is going back to B1 on your ECU
I ended up trying every pin combination. got the car to start once, then rev'd it and it died. then couldnt get it started again.
Threw my toys out the pram and put the stock CAS on and it fired first turn of the key (with backup map reapplied)
I'll re-visit it another day when i get the motivation again.
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50 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
I've got DBW, easily done via the Haltech.
Just need to feed in brake & clutch input however I'm out of inputs. Will need an IC10 dash or I/O expander to get more inputs.
IC7 dash is soon to be able to have inputs wired directly in.... oh wait... you dont like nintendo switches do you 😆
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15 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Maybe find the spec sheet and see what the resistance of the coil is, possibly it's not fried? Especially if you didn't short it
maybe another thing for me to try? timestamped (i know its the nz wiring kit, but this is on the haltech software side)
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1 minute ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Hmmmm not sure, but an assumption is maybe.
A reluctor creates its own voltage so you don't feed it one.
Aye probably dead then 🤣 will probably just pop the stock CAS back on.
i do have the paper wiring diagram with notes on it somewhere so I’ll cross reference that first
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If it’s been wired to 12v will that have f**ked the sensor?
as I’ve tried changing the wiring to suit as per above, so wired black to yellow and white to green.
or have I messed that up (I’m terrible with wiring it’s my number one hate 🤣) -
Here’s how it is in the ECU
and the wiring in the plug is like this
think it is plain white, yellow, green, blue.
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Just now, R3N3 said:
For the NZ wiring kit (which Yelsha copied) the black wire is + and the white is -. For me (according to my wiring notes) I have the black (+) connected to pin B1 and white (-) pin B5. Hope that helps?
Thanks, yeah the yelsha just uses a cheaper (non bosch) sensor i believe. if thats the case then the way i had the wiring the first ime should be correct. definitely going to have to consult the pin locations for the ECU. otherwise we are all just guessing!
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Went home at lunch and swapped the white and black around and still nothing.
When i get on the laptop later today or tomorrow i'll see which pin leads to what colour wire (have a wiring specialities harness)
That should clear up any confusion hopefully.
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4 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
I think so, I'll have a look when I'm home later.
I wrote a post on the now defunct Haltech forum detailing this, very useful they deleted it lol.
Absolutely baffles me why they deleted the forum. the facebook group can be kind of helpful, but you get too many bellend's spreading the wrong information.
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On 17/04/2024 at 11:03 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Looks like the connector itself on the trigger kit is pinned funny.
Make sure you're not wired to the +12V, it should be sensor GND and back to B1 on the Elite 2500 (need to find the post I wrote years ago).
yep, looks like the wiring guide has me wiring white to Ground and black to Trigger 1 (on 34 wiring), even if i went off the 32 wiring, the sensor is still wrong isnt it? white to trigger 2, black to 12v.
I'm assuming black is ground and white needs to go to trig 1? so just a case of swapping white and black around in the plug.
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Managed to get it all installed, along with a carbon timing belt cover, made sure to use the correct spacer to ensure there is a 1.3mm gap.
having issues with it not starting now, checked the scope and there are no wave forms whatsoever. I’ve followed the pin out correctly. However I’m wondering if the pinion may be different as this is a Neo in a 32.
read up on haltech tuning tips and it says to swap ecu pins 1&5 and 2&6 around.
will have a look tomorrow arvo at where to swap these pins around in the software as I don’t want to mangle the connector trying to change them round in the loom. Anyway a couple of photos for the time being.
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20 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Pretty much, once the car is running, check it again (with the engine running)
That's for a Link, I can't recall the reasoning, however if you take 97 and minus it from 720 you get 623 degrees
ah that makes sense now, thanks for explaining!
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8 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
That kit is similar to the NZ Wiring Trigger kit, this is what I have for mine (your offset might be a little different as the plate, as I'm sure each manufacturer has it a little different)
I do have the filter slightly high, might drop it
You're a bloody legend! so i just basically turn off fuel, lock timing at 10 degrees, and then tweak the TDC angle until the timing light shows 10 degrees too?
instructions state a rough trigger offset of 97which im assuming is in relation to slightly different positioning of sensor?
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On 3/25/2024 at 4:02 PM, samw/skyline said:
Haha no problem. Let me know how it goes if you get it working for you. I hope it’s straight forward
Just waiting on my timing light to be delivered then i'll be fitting the kit up. will take plenty of photos of the process as it will be a learning curve for me with the haltech settings.
in the meantime though i ordered some carbon fibre ganador style mirrors the other month. fitted them up and pretty happy with them!
Had a prang a few months ago and badly dented the Offside Front Guard, so you'll be able to see the difference in the paint!
and also some a photo's that were taken at the border battle car show in Albury back in october - some of them actually appeared in street machine february issue.
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i'll never buy a wrapped car again, all the paint tore off my car when i removed the wrap. It had definitely sat out in the sun for way too long!
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kia are releasing a ute soon, i reckon it will be a good vehicle to tow the skyline to racetracks in, and also a vehicle that i care so little about that the misso can kerb the wheels on it
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15 hours ago, samw/skyline said:
How did/does the yelsha trigger kit work for you? Looking like I might get one.
I haven't got around to fitting it yet, i bought a couple of different timing belt covers, new bolts etc, then i was missing a gasket. so i ordered the gasket and just haven't got around to fitting it all again.
Thanks for the reminder though, might be something i investigate this long weekend!
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15 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
And they also confess that they just 3D printed them! Which makes me wonder if they will buckle in the heat worse than the originals did. Perhaps I need to hire a Chinese hacker to get the print files out of Nismo's server?
Not necessarily, completely depends on how its printed and what material they use. i cant see Nismo using a $200 FDM printer and PLA
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haha, its still a cracker though!
yeah days where simpler when you could actually text and drive as you didnt have to look at the phone when it had buttons 😆
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Loving your printables name 😆 "i was tryna save time!"
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all this talk of europe but photos show English numberplates (did you forget about brexit 😆)
i wish the prices for bimmers was the same as back in the UK, they are ridiculous over here! (im an expat)
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17 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
I'm down south. It seldom gets hotter anywhere else in the southern cities than it does in Adelaide. When we get 40°C, it's usually for a week at a time. My aircon works, and works well. I just don't need/want it in most circumstances. Even driving home from work in the afternoon for 45 minutes, where the air over the road might be 45°C, I prefer the windows down.
In fact, I use it so seldomly that I needed to get it regassed because it all leaked out somewhere and we couldn't find where, and I really should use it every week to keep the seals wet....but I always forget. It's probably been 2 months since I last remembered to turn it on.
willing to swap your A/C setup for 2 x window switches?
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Daymo's Back! - R32 RB25DET NEO
in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups
Posted
I'm from the UK, everyone knows you buy a Seat or a Skoda as they generally run better than their VW / Audi Brothers 😆