DaymoR32
-
Posts
328 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
6 -
Feedback
0%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Posts posted by DaymoR32
-
-
this is gold 😆
-
12 minutes ago, IMACUL8 said:
f*ckem and move onto Samsonas?
We all know that is what @Dose Pipe Sutututu is gonna say!
-
you dont take the wire from the fuel sender hat. you take the fuel level wire from the plug that used to plug into the stock dash.
-
I dont know who told you that you need to remove stuff from your engine bay to paint it, that is definitely not required. see example below:-
-
1
-
-
5 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
I would dare say the $300 mark is within reach, especially for those who want flex fuel, launch control, super basic engine protection, 3D boost tables, you can't go wrong with Nistune.
sweet, i'll bang it up for sale this evening then
-
sweet, i'll download it tonight and see if it works
-
1 minute ago, SLVRBAKSLPZ said:
I have 1.6.7
Are u using 1.6.8?
I'll check when i get home, i donwloaded it on 25th February
-
10 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Very backwards approach, get a RB20DET ECU and install a Nistune.
Get new top feed injectors and a Z32 OR R35 AFM and scale (change the TIM, TP Load, TP Load Scales) and send its mum with as much boost as possible.
Do not use a RB25DET ECU, you can't do anything with it.
what are rb20det ecu's worth these days? i've got one laying around
-
9 minutes ago, SLVRBAKSLPZ said:
..... It may be the new software update.
I loaded the new update on my laptop a week or two ago. I didn't use it til today. Tryna change it offline with my old file and it's not saving settings.
I'm emailing Haltech now.
thats another possibilty as ive only used the latest haltech software!
-
3 minutes ago, SLVRBAKSLPZ said:
Mine is set to pin 18. Mine worked fine as well. Idl what to make of it.
This calls for an email to Haltech
one more thing that i havent tried, is modifying the dash when its not plugged in. basically load your layout from the dash > unplug > change settings > plug dash back in > send to dash.
Maybe that will work....
-
3 minutes ago, SLVRBAKSLPZ said:
Full was 0.27 / half 1.31 / E 2.53
Just full changed.
I kinda fixed it. So I have a haltech fuel sender conditioner still wired. I think it died from getting gas in it from pulling the sender, but I had it wired up still. I pulled the power wire off for it which seemed to have made the OEM sender signal stick to full. Once I put the power from the conditioner to the battery, It started reading 15gals.
However the ICC software still reads 0.01 and revert while trying to change
hmmm, i dont have a haltech fuel sender conditioner in mine. im just taking it straight from the fuel level wire that went to the original dash.
I originally had the fuel going into pin 21 as per the wiring diagram but that just didnt work at all and could not be calibrated for some reason. theres sesor and diagnostic for each avi input apar from on avi 4.
I really dont understand why its not working when it worked fine on the Racepak IQ3
-
25 minutes ago, SLVRBAKSLPZ said:
So now I'm having the same issue as you. My sender stopped reading the other day as the full value changed. It doesn't set when pressing apply
I dont know why. I just did it out the blue
so is yours saying 100% full aswell? what voltage values have you used for full and empty? and did you put more than 2 columns worth of data in?
I've tried having 2 columns. i.e 2.4v - 0% & 0v - 100%
Then ive also tried 6-7 colums with 0, 20%, 40%, 60%, 80%, 100% etc
It still reverts back to two columns and random values when i click apply
-
11 hours ago, robbo_rb180 said:
Should do a build thread would love to see the rest of the car if engine bay and brake setup is that neat.
Also great results on Dyno, how is the car to drive with the 6 speed?
i second this! been following you on insta for a while but i do like to read about what people are building!
-
1
-
-
19 minutes ago, SLVRBAKSLPZ said:
I have a Plat Pro. i didnt have issues it any auto correction of the values or the resistor button being locked out
the resistor button isnt locked out so to speak. i just change it on the drop down to "disabled" then click apply and its enabled again if that makes sense
-
Hey guys,
Im having an issue with the fuel level on my IC-7 too.
I go into input calibration and try to input a range of values say for example 2.4v empty and 0 volts full. i then click apply and it automatically changes these values to 0.924v empty and 0.16 volts full.
It also wont let me disable the pullup resistor either. i tried disabling just to see if it made a difference.
I filled my tank up to the brim and ive done about 120km's and my tank still says 100% full. so either my car is now the most fuel efficient car in the world or theres something wrong.
I'm using AVI input 1 sensor pin 18 with the 90-0 ohm fuel sensor channel.
Anyone have any ideas?
Car is an R32 GTS-T with a hlatech elite 2500 ECU - which shouldnt really make any difference i dont believe
-
15 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
At this rate putting in a RB26 seems cheaper.
just put a destroked Barra in it & Samsonas
-
9 hours ago, TezGT-R said:I just ordered a section of this in 4" then cut it down slightly to fit https://torquelinegarage.com.au/proflow-carbon-fibre-intercooler-piping-45-degree/
that looks real nice!
-
1
-
-
if you are talking in mph im assuming you are british or american?
Whats the ambient temperature wherever you are at the moment?
-
On 2/27/2021 at 11:41 AM, jmknights93 said:
Mate, that dash looks awesome.
Thanks, it really does make a huge difference!
-
Been quiet for the past couple of months and haven’t really driven the car much. I have bought a couple of goodies though.
First thing I did was buy some wind deflectors. These were more to cover the window trims that are starting to crumble up a little bit.
Also gave the car a good wash!
Next thing on the list was an IC-7 dash. I ordered it and got impatient so I designed and printed a new surround before I even had the dash in my hands. Happy to say it fit perfectly first time!
I’ve only tweaked one layout soo far. Need to figure out how to get the fuel working (it worked on my haltech/racepak iq3 street dash so I’m sure it’s just a setting that I’ll have to tweak.
Really happy with how it looks though, looking forward to having a needle to read for speed rather than numbers! And the ability to fully customise layouts. Will have a proper tinker over the weekend. Anyway, enough chatting, here’s the photos...
-
4
-
-
17 hours ago, Duncan said:
more seriously though, if anyone can explain to me why one of these cars is the ugliest car ever designed, and the other is a 6 figure uber desirable one, I'd love to hear it.
are AU's in the 6 figures now? this damn covid tax, its gonna be cheaper to buy an R34 than an AU soon!
-
1
-
-
just go all out and buy a titanium key
-
1
-
-
10 hours ago, Unzipped Composites said:
It's really taken me years of research to get the knowledge I do have, which realistically is still pretty limited. I'm certainly not knowledgeable enough in aerodynamics to be running courses! I have run composites courses though haha.
I would highly recommend the book 'Competition Car Aerodynamics' by Simon McBeath. Very good intro to aero, presented from the perspective of a hobby race car driver. Honestly I still refer to this book every now and then, its something of a bible for me haha.
that book rings a bell, i think i referenced it when doing my body styling and CFD module at uni back in 2010!
-
First draft cup holder knocked up, also has a slot for a phone aswell when a cup isn’t in the slot. Just need to tweak a few dimensions and print settings but I should have a better version drawn up and printed tonight.
High beam upgrade dramas
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
Posted
yes mate, check page 2 of my build thread
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480029-daymos-back-r32-rb25det-neo/?do=findComment&comment=7944570