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Old man 32 GTR

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Posts posted by Old man 32 GTR

    Rb26 or rb30???

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    11 minutes ago, Predator1 said:

    The torque of the RB30 is real. My mates 32R makes 440~awkw @ only 18psi with no timing, and that thing had virtually no lag. Even going uphill, that thing would just haul from any gear/revs. In contrast, a 2.6 or 2.7 or eve a 2.8 would see considerable lag before it starts to boogey. IMHO, stick with what you have, and enjoy life.

    Yeah I hear you, this is my car now, even with the 68/70, it’s on when you roll the throttle, rpm doesn’t really matter. As a street car, it’s probably as good as you’d want, but because I’m a little weird I think ‘As a GTR’ where do I want it? 
    shouldnt a GTR have lag, isn’t that part of the driving experience, lol
    If I do this, it won’t be one engine out and one in, it will be engine bay respray, blast and coat subframe, replace bonnet, re wire engine bay. I will bring the bay up to a standard I want it. It presents well now, but It’s no where near finished to a level I’m happy with. 
    But thanks for the the input, I appreciate peoples opinions on this, helps to give perspective and give me an idea what to expect if I move forward with this. 

    • Like 2

    Rb26 or rb30???

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    23 hours ago, Predator1 said:

    THIS. I kinda regret doing a 3.2 mainly due to fitmet issues. I just hate chopping shit up, but thats just me. I'm sure when mines running it will be well worth it, but if i was to do it all again, I'd def do a high revving 500kw 2.8.

    This is me, if I was building a motor, then I would build a 2.7/8. The 30 was in it when I bought the car, but it’s proven to be a very good motor. So now a part of me says stuck with what you got, you know it’s good, it’s set up and it works, and the other part says, build it how you want. 
    Now it seems from the responses here that most, if building from scratch, would go with a 2.7-2.8 over a 3.0/2 

    Rb26 or rb30???

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    5 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

    I dunno man. You've already done what's needed to put a 30 based engine in. The damage is done, the pipework is set up.

    At your power level you're really going to feel the difference if you drop 10% capacity.

    That’s where I’m stuck, the 30 is in and is a great motor. Was built well, but a part of me really wants a 26. 
    then on top of that, I’m nervous I’m going to be disappointed. 
    AND at some point, I will be going back to a 26 block, just this opportunity has come up now and I was hoping to enjoy the current set up for a few years first. 

    Rb26 or rb30???

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Predator1 said:

    If you already have a 30, then stick with it. 2.7 will see a noticeable amount of lag, plus you might need a smaller turbo.

    Depends on what you really want at the end of the day. How much power does your 30 make atm?

    Car make 440kw on 98 @ 20psi 

    and 580kw on E85 @ 32 psi 

    Obviously the powerband will move up the rpm range in the 2.7, but the 2.7 will happily Rev to 9500rpm and the 3.0 is restricted to lower rpm. 

    Rb26 or rb30???

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Cheers for the responses, looks like a 26 based bottom end wins the popular vote. 
    To ‘let the cat out the bag’ I’ve been considering building a bottom end and was undecided which way to go. 
    My car is currently fitted with a 30 bottom end. 
    anyway, the opportunity has come up to purchase a JHH built 2.7 motor, built in an N1 block with their Raceport head package. 
    My reservations are, my current setup is so good, torque everywhere, good response and fast enough for me, but this set up isn’t where I’m going with the build. I want a 26 block, but I’m nervous I won’t like it compared to what I currently have. 
    the struggle is real! Lol 

    • Haha 1

    6870 vs 6875

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    I’ve done a search but haven’t been able to find anything. Is there anyone on here who understands turbos who would be able to explain the difference in how these turbos would behave / respond compared to one another. 
    obviously housings can affect this so let’s compare 

    1. 6870 gen 2, 1.0ar T4 divided rear 

    2. 6875 gen 2, .96ar T4 rear 

    now I know the 6875 is rated a little higher, will it actually make more power and how much will you sacrifice in lag? 

    Rb26 or rb30???

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Just putting it out there, interested in hearing peoples thoughts on this. 
    For a GTR with where they are going and with ‘purity’ possibly becoming more important nowadays. 
    would you prefer a 26 based bottom end or a 30 based bottom end?  
    and why? 
    purely for discussion, let’s not go to war over this! Lol 

    R32 Gtr Long Term Love, Now Project

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted

    1 hour ago, r32-25t said:

    I did have someone recommend a 6870 but the 6466 is lots of fun and still has a lot more to give 

    64/66 is perfect, with the V cam would be quite responsive as well, perfect set up, just fix the head and turn it up! 
    what power did you last make? 
    I can get you a drive in a GTR with a 64/66 turned all the way up and backed by a PPG sequential if you want an idea of what it’s capable of. Just shoot me a pm if you’re interested. 

    • Like 1

    R32 Gtr Long Term Love, Now Project

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted

    6 hours ago, r32-25t said:

    It’s definitely seen that way and does add plenty of low down torque and response, but if I’m going to do this much to the head and etc, do I take full advantage of the extra flow and get some cams in there with plenty of lift?

    Yeah, tough decision, but if you got it, probably best to stick with the V cam? If you want more flow, strap a bigger turbo to it 😁👍🏼

    • Like 1

    GTR - Brake upgrade (Brembo BBK)

    in Suspension, braking and tyres

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Stixbnr32 said:

     

    I might have to also place an order - just need some bigger wheels as well.

    I’m running R34 GTR 18’ wheels on mine, they offered to test fit my wheels to their shop car (which has this set up) to ensure adequate clearance. 
    I’m currently running the V spec Brembos which I’ve invested quite a bit of money into getting the setup right. 
    but this is tempting 

    Rb head studs comparison

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    5 hours ago, r32-25t said:

    you’re probably right and why I’ve started saying it’s pushing water rather then lifted the head 

    How much water is it pushing? When I had the cometic head gasket, it started pressurising the cooling system around 27-28psi through the 68/70, which was just shy of 500kw. It wasn’t that bad though, would basically fill the overflow bottle if I gave it a hard time, but would suck the water back into the radiator when it cooled down. When the head came off you could see where the combustion gases were making their way to the water channels, cylinder 3 was the worst and I think cylinder 5 from memory. 
    It did hold together for over a year, and I took it on a couple of 500km in one day drives. 

    Rb head studs comparison

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    20 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

    Challenge accepted, will try over 450kW using ARP2000.

    Side note, quoting power is HP is like measuring your penis length starting from your anus.

    Well I’m at 580kw on ARP2000’s, nil issues. With a Tomei head gasket. 
    @500kw using ARP2000’s and a Cometic head gasket, the head gasket failed. 
    when the head was removed the torque of the head studs was checked and I was told they were torqued to spec. 
    a mate of mine bought a JHH built motor. Motor was built for 1000hp, they used a Nitto head gasket and ARP 2000 head studs. 
    when making the decision on what to use for mine I contacted numerous shops and engine builders. With my target being 600kw. Most recommend ARP2000’s.

    One engine builder stated he won’t use 625’s. 

    On 03/10/2020 at 11:09 PM, BK said:

    Let's keep it simple then as requested:

    90% of any RB = ARP2000

    Money to burn or mega boost = ARP CA625+

    /Close thread

    Many different opinions, but BK hit the nail on the head, I’d go even further, for 95% of builds, ARP2000’s would be more then capable. 
    Remember, CA625’s are a fairly new product, it wasn’t that long ago 2000’s were the best available and were being used, successfully on 1000+hp  builds. 

    • Like 2

    GTR I just got one!

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted

    Yes, it’s really nice. Was good to drive the car again, forgot how bloody fast this thing is. Even on gate pressure running 98 the thing is an animal on the street. But you can feel the reduced power in the top end, but it’s really strong through the mid range. 
    I found out the motec uses the wheel speed and rpm. The gear ratios have been entered in so it can determine what gear it’s in. Actually works really well. 

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