slimjim

Daily driver, clock about 100km's per week Living 5 mins from work helps.

I like where your heads at

Hope these are of some help, best I can do in the dark http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d115/sli...21/DSCF0229.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d115/sli...21/DSCF0227.jpg

PUA I see... Oh and looks like a good read, wouldn't mind a copy myself!

Nah that was probably the OTHER grey GTR in there hehe. Mine was just in for a major service, and dyno run. Need new fuel pressure regulator apparently, running lean under boost. Anyway I'll stop whoring up your thread. Good luck in fixing your car man, definitely one of the tougher GTRs going round

Hey chalon is your GTR grey? If you had it at Boost Worx the other day I saw it in there, Shaun said something about 350ish kWs but engine packed up! Otherwise thats another GTR that blew something... either way if its yours nice car man! Oh and my GTRs not Autosalon material... maybe next year

bump ^^^?

For sure, would be glad to help

Have you opened the box yet? Relatively easy to spot a dry solder point if you know what your looking for. 99% of the time this is the problem, or dirty contacts, as mentioned above.

My box clicked every time I pressed the button, I thought it was the motor too. But the dry solder point on my circuit board was one of the outgoing prongs of the plug. So the signal was getting into the box, the switch would activate, but then the signal couldn't get out of the box again to tell the window to move.

I'm keen

Before you spend money on a new window amp (the black box), open it up and look on the bottom of the circuit board. If there are any dry solder points, theres your problem. The solder will have seperated from the circuit board and the signal will not be making it to the window. Just drop a lil bit of solder onto it and should be sweet.

I got bored and installed mine just then, took like 30 mins. At first I couldn't tell the difference between the old and new C's shift, but after playing round a bit, the gears do seem a lot closer together. So much at the moment its hard to tell whether its in 1st or 3rd! But it will be good once I get used to it, nice and clicky and direct.

C's are well regarded for making the best kits, I actually recieved mine today, so hopefully installing it tomorrow. I nearly got a nismo kit, I think they would be good as well, haven't heard much about them though. But, a generic one may do the job just fine, I'm sure many people have them. I guess it comes down to how much you want to spend.

Cool, thanks for the update. I trust you have recieved my payment and adress details? If not lemme know via PM. Thanks

Bump, how are the switches going? Cheers

My C's Shift Kit from Japan just landed in Melbourne yesterday, should be putting it on next weekend

I've just worked out my economy over the last month, averaging between 14.5-16L per 100k's. Thats a relatively stock GTR, just zorst and pods.

bump Come on, only need one more!

I'm a fan of the N1 slots on R32's, but I think your R34 would look better without them. Would frame the intercooler nicely if they were removed.

Actually on closer inspection, I think one of the solder points is stuffed, one that connects to the bit that the plug plugs into... must be the outgoing signal. Maybe thats why the switches still work, but the window doesn't... signal goes in, but doesn't come out? Either way, I'm gonna take it down to a TV repairer tomorrow and get that point soldered up since I don't have a soldering iron... will let you know!

Ahh ok. As far as I can see, everything is soldered up nicely... ...which means the problem must lie elsewhere. DAMMIT why couldn't it be something easily fixable!

Cheers mate, I searched just over a week ago for an answer, naughty me for not searching again before making this topic! I can't seem to locate any dry solder joints though, am I sposed to be looking on the top or bottom of the circuit board? Is the ring you described in the other thread a burn or something? I got no idea about circuit boards...? Thanks

My drivers side power window has stopped working recently. Before it stopped completely, I could hit the door with my elbow and it would come down, but now it won't budge at all. I'm pretty sure its not the actual window winding motor as before it died, it never slowed down or anything, it seems as though it's not getting the electrical signal to 'go down'. So when I use the button, I can hear a clicking coming from the power window amplifier (I think its called), this little black box - So I pulled it open And here are the two switches that connect when I pull up or down on the button for the window. The one on the left is up and the one on the right is down. So they're both working, but I think perhaps the connection might be dirty or something? What can I use to clean up the connection, its too small for me to even see if its got anything on there. Has anyone attempted to fix this before? Does it sound like this could be the source of my problem? Its pretty damn annoying not being able to put down my window. No drive through Maccas!

Yeah I got an email - After a HUGE Midnight Madness Sale last year our Annual Midnight Madness Event is on again this week!! It's on this Friday 23rd of June from 10pm to 1am.....so don't miss out on this 3 hour mayhem!!! As a valued e-club member of Autobarn Mile End we wanted you to be the first to know in advance so you can race into the store for huge savings. There's going to be great savings to be found in store, so stay tuned for more details.....full details on all the crazy specials later in the week. Please click on the hyperlink below... http://www.mileend.autobarn.com.au Regards, Autobarn Mile End