drifter17a

Whilst I have this topic open, my boost gets to 11 psi on occasions when car is cold and when warm, it does not pass 7-8psi no matter what gear and WOT. i don’t have a compressor so have bought a 65mm end cap and did put a tyre valve in it. I am then wanting to use my tyre inflator to check for leak. Is that doable or the tyre inflator will struggle? is it a boost leak in your view or more a turbo problem? it could also be my walbro is not directly feed but i can’t see any link between pump and boost

Lol, it is my ferrari. My childhood dream so ..

I know it is silly but it is how i feel and find it very hard to leave it overnight

I am overly paranoid that mechanic may nick something or even blow up the engine i am not there to see what they are doing..

No welding now but all sorted .... so here is my question, I can just cut the negative cable at front of the car right? i connected a negative to body and checked it is grounded

Cold start as testing the car when it starts up?

What did you mean by never given a car without problem? well guy is charging me £400 for dyno and that is for 3.5 hours and around £200 for fitting the way i understood, fitting is very simple, fit ecu in case, fit and wire air temp and fit maps/boost solonoid

One of the tuners says he wants the car for few days whereas most tuners say if you come in morning it will be finished within 2-3 hours i am just worried that if i leave the car, they start taking parts of it or break it to get business i am not been pessimistic but think some mechanic do this unless they know you else how would they make money reading on uk forums, both have similar reputations but one wanting the car for number of days to do dyno and also road tests seems little dodgy... is he seriously going to spend 4 days on my car mapping it??

Just got a bracket and box so will fit it on sidr

Yeah but i don’t have that bracket

All, so almost all tasks are complete for my remap. what I have : blitz fmiz oil cooler(to install) spitfire coil iridium plug walbro 255(standard wiring, need to do direct feed) greddy profex boost controller Extreme ceramic clutch and flywheel Stock internal, no head gasket or stud change to buy: hybrid turbo capable of 450ps ev14 injector now after reading hours and hours of forum , i still don’t know what I can reliably get from my r34. some tunner say max is 400ps while other say they can reliably get 500ps as neo is much stronger than r33 rb25 My view is I can get around 450ps on stock internal. Thoughts? now trickey bit is, one tuner tells me I should use link g4 boost solonoid which i understand is closed loop rather than my greddy and another say doesn’t matter. which one? i like to be able to have a safe boost setting and loon mode so using greddy enables that rather than having a botton to flick it on ecu. any advice or thought is much appreciated

so what is the maximum water temp that is considered dangerous ? 110+

yeah very small much tiny space, did place it on right hand side i am running positive through a kill switch which is the one below https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Truck-Van-Battery-Isolator-Cut-Off-Kill-Switch-SPST-MAX-50V-200A-On-Off-Out/123429881445?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 how would you cover the bottom when wires are in to ensure it won't touch body etc? i am thinking a battery box but rather not buy one as have a battery bracket but this needs to be inside something

so now, my fuel guage stays up even when car is off. Do I need to clear ecu or something ?

Fire or fish, lol?

all, I know this may have been asked before but couldn't get a direct response to what i needed I have ran the cable to boot and ready to relocate. i want to mount the battery on the top shelf by removing the hicas ecu. unfortunately there is no bolt or whatso ever to hold the batter in place. I am thinking of drilling a whole on the top shelf but my question is, is the top shelf very close to fuel pump / plastic pump and I could put a whole in the tank?

changed my pump to walbro 255 after reading many people needing to cut wire and solder the walbro one, I didn't have to do it. it was a straight fit connector. I put it in with the small filter that came with it rather than the original nissan filter other than that no issues. thought I post for people benefit it also took me a while to find out how to get it out as I didn't want to break anything . I realised you just had to pull it up and the bracket tab will release itself.

?

well that is in AU and what i ended up buying no supplier in UK, I bought neo wedge 4.2 and 4.7 and non fitted hence why i posted.

found bosch ev14 in the uk from a supplier here. won't buy it now , probably buy it in two month or so as a bit skinned after buying few parts this month . i suppose it can't be fake can it or how can you spot a bosch ev14 that is fake?

horn works now, connected 85 to 30 rather than ground. thanks all

hi all, does any one know what stile led fits the climate control ? i bought these from ebay but won't fit https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4x-T5-T4-7-Ice-Neo-Wedge-Instrument-Cluster-Light-Panel-Gauge-LED-Bulb-UK-Stock/142761905283?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=441765860400&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648 I can see a place for 3 bulbs right behind the climate control but I think those bulbs are for the buttons and no the back led. i cannot see the climate control screen in daylight as it is very hard to read the text. do you have the same issue? also unless I put the temprature on 18C or 19C, the car will get boiling hot. for instance if I put it on auto and 21 C , it gets extremly hot. is there a sensor that may need to be changed ?

Lol, don’t fume:) Trying to understand this. would you get a direct battery feed to either leg 85 or 86? I think the problem as i suspected and you pointed out is neighter 85 or 86 have power to energise the relay and I have been confused by looking at relay wiring instructions. if I get an accessory light to 86 , 86 it will not draw power from that accesorry to power the horn, it is simply used to energised the relay so i don’t need to fuse it , do it? power is supplied from pin 30 to pin 87 which goes to horn

Thanks for clarification. i started with set of 0 and gain of 0. now at set of 30ish , I achieved around 12psi and have set the gain to 15%. from reading manual I understood the gain to be used to keep the boost if it drops . So for instance if it boosts to 9psi at 4k rpm and back down to 5psi at 5k rpm, you use the gain and keep raising until it consitantly stays on 9psi from 4k onward. am i reading/ understanding it wrong?

checked them out on injectorsonline but that is AU, by the time I pay postage/ tax and ... it cost the same as what I could buy here hence why I wanted to fit r35 injectors as they are way cheaper https://www.injectorsonline.com/gb/fuel-injectors/nissan/rb25-neo/1000cc-xspurt-injectors-x-6.html have you used xsprut ? at £392 doesn't seem to bad