hoodedreeper

An update regarding the registration with the DVLA I sent off the paperwork the day after I collected the car from the port, two weeks later it was all returned with a letter explaining they have rejected the application. This was because the cheque was £20 short for the road tax (I used a price list I found online). Nevermind it is what it is, it was sent back to them the following day with a new cheque. Fast forward another 2 weeks or so, I called them for an update to be told it had been rejected. Yesterday (16th September) I received the documents back along with another letter, this time it was because I didn't put an X in one box on the V750 (personalised number plate certificate), which declared that I had the rights to the personalised number plate. Why this wasn't mentioned in the first rejection letter, I don't know, but it could have saved this headache. The documents were sent back today, so fingers crossed third times a charm and it'll FINALLY be registered on the road just in time for the bad weather (woohoo!) To cheer myself up I lowered the front 25mm, was sick of seeing it sit like a monster truck. No idea how much clearance I'll have getting on and off the driveway, I'll worry about that when I can actually drive it

A few little updates that weren't filmed due to not taking long to do or not interesting enough for their own video. My new K&N Air Filter arrived, I went with an RU-4180 which matched the dimensions of the universal cone filter the car originally had. The battery had gone flat, while that was charging I tidied up the spaghetti wiring at the bulk head and down the sides of the engine Next job was to swap the stereo The Kenwood harness had the female ISO plugs cut off and the male ISO plugs cut off the adaptor loom and joined with bullet connectors. I ordered in a repair loom through work and re-did it all. New Kenwood unit installed (Android Auto, DAB, Bluetooth, Reverse Camera) The bonnet/hood gas struts have been poor since collecting the car. I couldn't find any suitable replacements locally so took a chance on a pair from AliExpress. The originals don't use a retaining clip to secure the cup onto the ball fixture, would explain why I struggled for 10-15mins trying to pry off the cups. The ball fixtures unscrew using a 12mm spanner, new ones are the same size. Sadly no photo of them fitted, you're not missing much lol The dished Momo steering wheel got replaced with my Momo Tuner, turns out I ordered counter sunk bolts for the horn trim ring (like they normally are for the steering wheel) instead of allen cap (flat seat) A terrible photo of a Quaife style gear shift knob I've had stashed in my tool box for many years after purchasing the incorrect thread size (I can see a pattern emerging with ordering incorrect parts...) Also threw in a cup holder and a (empty) Boss Coffee can, because why not

Ironically the GTT was quite reliable in the 7 years of ownership. From memory I've only had to replace a radiator and coilpacks out of inconvenience

I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down. This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld. The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA

The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s

Welcome!

Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s

It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.

My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment.

I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache

Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs

Apologies for the long read My R34 GTT was up for sale at the beginning of spring due to a few repairs creeping up. The strut tops needed replacing, roof and bonnet (hood) painting (yay for 3 stage pearl) and the underside stripped and treated. I sold the car which allowed me to be in a much better place financially. Leading up to the sale I was already thinking about the replacement. In an ideal world it needed to be a good all-rounder. Something I can mess around with, modify, do track days, do the school run, go on long drives etc. Options included but not limited to... Laurel C35, Evo 8/9, Civic FD2, Impreza Hawkeye, Aristo and even an Audi S4 Avant (I've already got the Mazda 6 wagon). But there was always one car at the top of the list The Toyota Mark ii JZX110 I found an advert on a Facebook group for an example in Japan, from a seller called Jon at Rising Sun Exports. A few messages back and forth and Jon calls me from Yokohama one morning (or afternoon in his case). He briefly explained the import process, the costs involved and a repeat of the advert. After much deliberation, the price was agreed and the sale was locked in. I've never imported a vehicle so I jumped into the unknown head first. The money transfer was completed through wise.com (fees apply), very easy to use and the money was with him within a day or two. The car suspension was raised for the vessel and the car dropped off at the port. It was 7 weeks later when the bill of lading was received and the freight invoice sent to me, followed by the export certificate a couple of days after (both digital copies) In the mean time the port had been in contact. I needed an agent to deal with the NOVA (notification of vehicle arrival) along with the tax/duty invoice, this was £75.00. The port also had a fee of £100, I'm guessing to cover the cost of the 10 day 'free storage' and for moving the car off the boat etc. They need a copy of the vehicle invoice, freight invoice and export certificate to allow the vehicle to pass through customs. The vessel arrived on Tuesday 5th August, the tax/duty invoice was generated and sent over. This is generally tax 20% and duty 10% of the vehicle value. Although the invoice came in at a higher amount than I had calculated. Once HMRC had received the payment the vehicle could be released from customs. I thought once the tax/duty was paid you could collect at any point, that's not the case. Your agent will need to book a collection slot, I requested Thursday 7th which was accepted, with a 9:00am slot allocated. It was a 5:00am start from Norfolk heading to Southampton. We eventually found the compound, upon presenting the bill of lading and some ID they released the car (they drove it out of the compound to the front ready for us to load up). The email from the port stated each slot had a 10 minute window, which seemed abit farfetched but the staff said it's not a strict rule. We were there for approx. 30-40 mins in total. A week prior to collecting I contacted my garage and explained the situation, I was able to get an inspection slot that afternoon. For the registration, DVLA require the car to be insured, for this I used a company called Adrian Flux who can insure the vehicle using the VIN number.

Thank you for the kind words. I do try and put in alot of effort when it comes to build threads. When I get a replacement car, I'll make sure to start a thread on this forum if people wish to follow that along too

The seats had very little wear, probably due to the limited use haha. Sadly it's no longer in my possession

Sorry for resurrecting an oldish thread Not much has happened in the past year since the last update. The car did another 1000 miles or so and failed the MOT for the first time in October (failed on tyres which had been advised for a couple of years) In October the car got put up for sale and was removed in November due to no interest, being so close to christmas it was to be expected. The roads were dry in February so I decided to tax it early and get the new tyres fitted. Fast forward to April, I got someone in to give the car a good clean after sitting for the winter. The car got re-advertised and today (Saturday 3rd May) the car sold. The new owner is planning a GTR conversion at some point and a respray in the same pearl white. It's bitter sweet, it's a shame to have the car sit there for half the year and then only do 1000 miles. The kids are growing too quick and space in the back is getting limited. It's been a great 6.5 years of ownership

I've only ever washed the R34 and used quick detailer, I've never polished/waxed it which is shameful to admit. I got a friend over who's recently started his valeting company to come give the car some paint love. He didn't machine polish it so there's still some minor swirls, plus with the roof and bonnet having some paint defects he wanted to be careful (see a previous post about that) Having not covered not many miles since ownership, the cambelt was due to be changed from age. Wayne at Auto Extreme supplied me with a genuine belt kit and waterpump. I took the car to a local garage AP Tuning to have the work carried out. Gary has an incredible reputation when it comes to Evos in particular but is very knowledgable on all things japanese too. The daily has been off the road for a couple of weeks so the R34 has been on daily duties. I forget just how nice it is to drive and was a great change. I just wasn't a fan of the fuel consumption (to be expected) A couple of random photos one evening after work A bonus pic of the daily Mazda 323F V6 on recently fitted R32 GTR wheels

It was that time of year where the car goes in for its MOT (annual inspection for those overseas). I did a mere 715 miles between Oct 2021-Oct 2022, this year I had covered 1736 miles. Certainly not the most exciting or interesting but it's great to be able to enjoy the car more. I made sure I stopped on the way to capture this odometer milestone. I installed a new Nismo cluster in December 2018 which starts the odometer from zero, hence the low miles. I even treated it to a full tank of fuel ready for the next couple of weekends of driving before it gets taken off the road for winter. The tyres were advised again for another year. I'll get those changed next year as they'll now be approaching 5 years and are now showing early signs of cracking inbetween the treads. Its a minefield when it comes to tyre recommendations. The only other thing that was picked up was a front tension rod. The bush on the passenger side is now cracking but not enough to cause any concern (yet) Looking at replacements, my options are Driftworks, Japspeed, Hardrace and Nismo. I would LOVE a full set of Nismo arms but looking at the price for a pair of these, I can only imagine a full set would be eye watering. Driftworks Front Tension Rods Japspeed Front Tension Rods Hardrace Tension Rods Nismo Front Tension Rods I'll probably go with the Driftworks ones, they also offer the other suspension arms too which will get replaced at some point. A couple of random photos

We've had a pretty good summer this year surprisingly lol Last year I only managed 700 miles/1120km use. This year I've done almost 1700 miles/2735km It doesnt sound alot but for pure weekend use thats quite abit for me (i wish it was more!)

Its been in the UK since 2016, I purchased it in 2018. I've never driven it on salt roads, I can't say how the previous owner used the car. Having the same layer of protection for the past 7 years will certainly wear out and start exposing the metal

One of the bigger jobs on the list was to underseal. I recently reached out on social media regarding brands and like most things, you ask 10 people and you'll get 10 different answers/recommendations. My friend John who runs JD Motorsport Engineering responded and invited me over to put the car on the ramp so we can have a good look. I travelled over this morning after the wheel alignment to have a chat. When I purchased the car in June 2018, the car went to H&S Performance for a large amount of work including undersealing. I understand garages can't spend hours upon hours prepping and treating so that they'll clean the surface and go over it with a Schutz gun. But looking at the underneath, I can't see any evidence of any underbody seal with the exception of the wheel arches. I did ask them to underseal those areas before fitting the Meister R coilovers, whether they mis-understood what I asked or just didn't do the underneath who knows. I've been using them for 15 years and I'm not start slagging them off. I was just shocked to see the current 'protection' so thin, you can litually pick it and it'll flake straight off. Anyway, onto the current state of the underneath.... You can see the area we started to pick at, it really is that thin John picked, tapped and scraped the areas that had surface corrosion. He said although there IS alot of surface rust, its a very solid and clean car (considering). Obviously until it's took back to bare metal I won't know if there's any potential repairs. The plan was to hire a ramp and do this myself, but John has offered to help but it'd be a full strip down of all the componants (except engine/front subframe). The price will depend how far I want to go with it, but if everything is being removed, it may aswell be refreshed at the same time. So that'll include: subframe, suspension arms and hubs powder coated polybushes anti roll bar & bushes camber arms SR Autosource zinc subframe hardware kit I can skip the subframe refresh and do that at a later date if I don't have the money in time. John also looked at the front struts. From a visual perspective they're good but we all know what lies underneath. He's suggested to tackle the underneath first before that gets too bad and then do the strut tops and front subframe refresh at the same time. So another expensive bill, but I guess thats part of owning cars like these. We have to do such jobs to keep them in tip top condition and road worthy. When it happens there will be plenty of photos

For the past couple of years the car has had inner tie rod(s)/track rod end(s) advised on the MOT. With the limited annual miles the car does, I've been putting it off With the recent motivation for sorting out the odd jobs, this was on the list too. I ordered replacement parts from Conceptua Tuning, very fast delivery as always! The weather hasn't been great the past week or so, finding a break in the rain was difficult to judge but it finally happened. My friend Danny came over to help and brought along a tool to help with the job. It looks like they haven't been touched in a long time With the lock nut cracked off and wound down the inner tie rod next was the top nut on the track rod end. My impact gun made easy work and with a swift swing of a lump hammer, it released from the hub. I made sure to count the number of turns the track rod end had to help with re-aligning. The steering rack boot had a small pinch clip on the outer end and a wire type clip on the inner. With those removed and the boot slid off, it was time to remove the inner tie rod. This is where Danny's tool came in to help. On the end it has 3 round teeth on what looked like a bearing.This part goes over the knuckle and the tie rod shaft goes inside (giggidy!). As you turn the shaft the teeth grip onto the knuckle. I've probably explained this terribly sorry! Anyway, it worked really well and they were off in seconds I forgot to take a photo here. I ended up re-using the original locking washer, I just didn't like the look of the new ones. With the new inner tie rod knuckle screwed into the steering rack it's just a reversal of what was done before. The larger metal clip for the steering rack boot snapped on removal so we had to resort to cable (zip) ties. Not ideal, but the shaft size on the new inner tie rods are smaller so the outer clip wouldnt work anyway. The wheels looked straight so it was good enough for a short journey in the morning to have a proper wheel alignment. I was lucky enough to get the car booked in with one of the STS Tyre Pros branches in Norwich at short notice. I used to take my supercharged MX5 here for any alignment, they always do a great job I didn't realise how much rear camber it had, I'd prefer less camber but I'd need some camber arms to do so. Something to consider later on

I've been having starting issues for quite some time. I put it down to the limited use the car receives, sometimes it could be used once a week sometimes it could be once in two weeks. I would charge the battery and it would start fine. At one point I exchanged the battery under warranty and that was fine for awhile, until recently. On the way home from the Pistonheads show at Bicester I stopped for fuel. Upon returning to the car it wouldn't start. I checked the battery terminals and they were tight on the battery posts but I noticed the cables going into both terminals weren't as tight as I'd like. After a little wiggle the car started, so that must be the issue?! Once home I removed the cabling and cleaned up the copper core and refitted. It started fine so I left it. Fast forward a couple of days later when I wanted to use the car and it wouldn't start. I charged the battery up and it started, could it be a dodgy battery?! Then next time it wouldn't start, this was becoming more and more of an nuisance. I disconnected the subwoofer positive and it started?! Hooray! But my luck came to an end rather quickly. The battery terminals rely on a screw at the top of the terminal to hold the cables in place. I wanted a more secure solution so I sourced some terminals with an 8mm post. The new crimp on ring terminals were quite beefy and my crimping tool would'nt be good enough to do the job. So I called upon a couple of friends who would have the equipment to help. So I begun with disconnecting the battery, but when I moved the positive terminal to one side it moved more than it normally does. Next thing I know, I'm holding the positive cable but it's not attached to the car. Turns out its been joined in the past, but what wire is it? The alternator got disconnected and we checked continuity to the broken cable, nothing. The concerning thing was the broken cable was the same as the battery earth which is black with a yellow trace. But this was 100% connected to the battery positive. You can see the broken cable where the yellow heat shrink is on the end (this was capped at the end of the night) The broken cable goes into a loom covered in conduit which splits into a Y. One side goes to the Alternator and the other side goes towards the back of the car, where the Starter Motor is. The insulation on the alternator live was peeled back to reveal a white cable, this was traced back to the fuse box. So the broken cable must be the starter motor then. We had some spare red cable long enough to run a fresh live from the starter motor to the battery, bypassing the original loom for testing purposes. The car started first time with no hesitation. The new live cable was cable tied out of the way to get me home. Fast forward a week to my next day off and I decided to tackle the original wiring conduit to make things tidier. I began by removing the OEM conduit and insulation tape. The old starter motor live was then accessable and could be removed. Most would have left this in place mainly for ease, but lets not do things by halves. Over time insulation tape seems to get stickier. I removed the old tape and gave the conduit a wipe over with some brake cleaner I also removed the aftermarket earth kit and cleaned up the contact points with a wire brush drill attachment I used some insulation tape to keep the loom together, refitted the conduit and the wrapped it all in tesa tape. Once the battery was reconnected I then cable tied the loom to keep it nice and tidy I even covered the new Starter Motor cable in tesa tape so it wouldn't stand out too much A couple of hours well spent and my starting issue resolved Although google searching for an answer could have been quicker, there's some fun fault finding yourself and you learn along the way

My driver side window has been operating slow for a little while, it was make this weird squeely noise too. It then stopped working all together which became a huge inconvenience. I was lucky enough to win a replacement regulator and motor on eBay but life got in the way and I could never find the time to do the swap (aswell as a day dry enough) With the window stuck fully up, this restricted access to see most of it. I was preparing to remove the glass and strip most of the door panel to change it (hence the dry day). But after seeing the replacment on the floor infront of me, it was only 6 nuts/bolts With the door panel off (I cover this in the Youtube video) it's time to tackle the regulator Unplug the large grey connector Starting off with the 2x 10mm nuts either end of the regulator that holds the glass Next was a bar/bracket which looks to be the adjustment, going by the lines either side of the 10mm nuts The last step is to remove the 4x 10mm nuts holding the motor to the door panel Luckily the glass stayed up and the unit could be pulled through the bottom hole in the door panel. Fitting is the reversal. Make sure you start with the motor https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GuP6Z-rgrRQ

I've been getting a sqeel from a drive belt now and again, but from what I could see they looked ok. I had some free time after a Cars & Coffee event last weekend (Bank Holiday) and made a start. Removing them was quite straight forward, I cover the steps required in a Youtube video (link at the end) Gates were the brand of choice. Been using them for years and very rarely have any issues. 4PK868 - Power Steering 4PK913 - Air Con 4PK890 - Alternator I know the tops of the belts don't make any contact with any other pulleys/tensioners but they still look as new There's no cracks or any signs of wear amongst the belt ribs either. Perhaps they just needed re-tensioning....who knows lol New belts now on and tensioned The only part I struggled with was the PAS tensioner bolt. For some reason Nissan made it waay too long and a normal length spanner is too big. Find yourself an old spanner and cut it in half to do this job, it'll save you alot of time faffing around trying to access the locking nut. While undoing it, it got about half way and it became even more of a struggle. I knew the thread was covered in dirt which didn't help, turns out the thread was damaged too I gave it a going over with a wire brush and ran an M8 die down it to clean the thread as much as possible. There's still evidence of some minor damage, but the nut goes through it no issues. I replaced the locking nut with a stainless one which changed the spanner size from 12mm to 13mm https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=838zBLX2m50

Not much had happened since the last update, only a couple of Cars & Coffee meetings along with helping a couple of friends out with Prom runs. That time had soon passed and the Pistonheads 25th Anniversary was upon us. Our initial plan was to drop the kids off at the inlaws,travel down on the Friday and we'd only be a short (17 mile) drive to Bicester Heritage the following morning. That's until I mentioned Caffeine & Machine was 'kinda' close by... by that I mean an additonal 48 miles futher north. Mrs Reeper was happy enough to head there as we both enjoyed our first visit (which happened to be August last year in the recently purchased MX5 NC1) Upon arrival we were asked if we would like to park on the grass bank or to the left on the gravel amongst the trees, which is where I went (knowing it'd make some good photos as the sun set) As always the atmosphere is fantastic, very chilled with great food and a good variation of cars to look at. Sorry for the photo spam, this has been a venue I've wanted to take the car for awhile and couldnt resist taking loads of photos We arrived at Bicester just after 7am and were guided into position inside the hanger where the Reader's Ride display was. Visiting Bicester was another venue ticked off the list after seeing photos of a Sunday Scramble that Speedhunters had covered. The show was divided into areas with selected cars that the Pistonheads staff had to choose. During the awards it was mentioned that they had 1400 applicants and 200 were chosen. I never thought I would have gotten chosen,given the calibre of cars in the Readers Ride section. I did feel abit out of place and I wish I spent more time at the car incase anyone wanted to have a chat. A thank you to Rob aka RSD 25 for these photos One thing I had recently noticed with the car was the paint on the roof. I spotted a slightly duller patch above the driver side window. Looking at it closer you can see fine sanding marks as if there isn't enough paint applied. The car was resprayed by the previous owner in 2017. The car is currently stored outside in direct sun, so I'm gonna take a guess and say that has accelerated this. While cleaning the car at home in preperation for the show I noticed more of the roof had gone dull towards the centre. The lighting inside the hanger made it more obvious. While cleaning the bonnet at the show I noticed that had started to go too, great! It wouldn't bother me as much if this was the original paint, but it's not With the already expensive list of jobs waiting, this doesn't help. Having to constantly repair the daily Accord also isn't helping with my bank balance. But I guess the saying is 'Rome wasn't built in a day' Well thats true, but my money can only stretch so far which means it's going to take a considerable amount of time to sort. Anyone got the winning lottery numbers? please?