GDZ1LA

550rwkw 740rwhp 3300nm wheels 805nm engine 24lb boost 100ron (maxed dyno had to bring boost only slowly for hp figure) 26 - apexi mild cams, kelford valve springs hpe full radious valve grind and port, jun intake 900mm throttle 900cc inj link lem g3 tuned by phil at nzefi stoked crank 87.8mm 87mm hks pistons carrillo h beams, clealite 77 bearings, acl race mains, std head and cradle bolts, acl 3 layer gasket.. 9.8:1 static 9:1 dynamic? t78 33d 15cm turbo 24lb 690rwhp at 19lb drift up..

thats static 9.7-9.8 dynamic seams to be 8.9:1 which comp should i take into accout? ENTER YOUR DATA CALCULATED DATA Cylinder Head Volume (cc) Cylinder Head Vol (cubic in.) 04.026 Piston Head Volume (cc) Piston Head Vol (cubic in.) -0.915 Gasket Thickness (in.) Swept Volume (cubic in.) 31.851 Gasket Bore (in.) T.D.C. Volume (cubic in.) 03.583 Cylinder Bore Diameter (in.) Gasket Volume (cubic in.) 00.472 Deck Clearance (in.) Note: Neg. nubmer above deck, Pos. number below deck Deck Volume (cubic in.) 00.000 Stroke (in.) STATIC COMPRESSION RATIO 09.889 OPTIONAL DATA Rod Length (in.) Adjusted Stroke (in.) 03.094 Intake Closing Point (degrees) ABDC @ 0.050 lift plus 15 degrees DYNAMIC EFFECTIVE COMPRESSION RATIO 08.956

same question t78 -33d 17cm exh 100ron with large overlap cams 9.7:1 currently..

i have finally made progress on my circut race engine one problem tho.. comp ratio.. specs are 87mm bore 87.8mm stroke 3130cc hks rb26 pistons 14-15cc? 0 deck clearance 1.3mm muilti layer head gasket head 66cc (current) but using large overlap apexi cams. i calulated it to be 9.7-9.8:1 turbo is t78 33d and aiming for 700-800hp max prob 650hp nominal. i can remove some cc from intake squish area. what do you suggest i drop comp ratio too?. i using 100ron. and 8000rpm all good? all been balanaced crank collars etc too.. oem 26 pump. what are some other engines compressions making this kind of power.. head is off so now is the time to act.. 9.7 is high but will large overlap cams reduce this enough?

i have a 1.3 mm restrictor on a std gtr pump with collar.. with std oil returns ill try add a larger sump with gate for braking.. as soon as i accel it returns stright to normal. next time i rebuild ill overside the 6 oil returns to say 9mm.. i dont want a external return if i can help it

im replacing modified 2wd one.. i know dry is what i want its just hiw and if i make it attached to cradle is what im consorned about.. and is making a flat bottom (but slightly sloping to exh side) is practical, do i scavange from exhaust side? the natural 5 deg engine lean would help it. and all head and turbo returns are on that side, i would make simple scraper attached to cradle.. therfore very little oil would return on intake side of sump

my s15 rb30 keeps having issues when braking at high speed with oil pressure. it drops right off after a few laps with heavy braking. i tried doing a simple mod with a brake bafffle in front of pickup but cant be bothered p1ssing around every month re modifing it till it wourks 100%.. i still havnt used slicks which would really upset it.. ive decided to do a simple dry sump setup with a few additions.. i was thinking of blanking off oil pump with a 10mm plate with oil seal, (std seal with machined crank to sut it 30mm further back... this would give a perfect place to run my 5" 60-2 trigger wheel.behind cambelt. as i wont have much room on crank pully as of ps alt and oil pump. and making a simple but stong and thick 6-10mm scavange /sump tray it would be spaced perfecly to clear cradle.. and machining flat 14mm seats to cradle with 5mm spacers, so oil can pass under. and tapping some 8-10mmcap bolt holes in cradle to strengthent the bottom end they would be attached to the thick sump plate and into cradle this will streghtent the bottom end from twist and serve as a scavange sump. and would be cheaper than a custom cradle. i want to run higher hp 700+ one day and have heard the block can get weak at this level. i will also lower engine.. and maybe look at mid mounting engine some day as would have virtually a flat bottom does this sound doable? how many holes should i drill and where are the safe places in cradle to drill and tap? gtrs have a good 30 6mm holes std whoch dont strenghten so a few "helpfull" holes woulnd hurt would it? i will use a simple 3 stage pump with twin sump scav.. prob just 50mm from front and 50mm from rear of sump? is that the normal? any suggestions. is drilling into the cradle worth trying or could i go backwards in strengh?

i have 87 hks 26 pistons. and 6" rods has anyone decked a 30e block 2mm to get a desired sqush cleaance? or will this weaken it to much i heard of 0.5mm but not 2mm another option i was thinking of is using rd28 83mm crank with 6.125" rods im aiming for 700hp on 98ron i have large overlap mild apexi cams too. what static comp ratio should i aim for.. is 9:1 too much?

i am sick of readin crap talk and people going on about using rb20 heads, what do i need for 300hp and just people bumping posts to make themselves look good i cant seach the post on its own for info on specialist modifactations.. downloading word version (so i can seach) only does 1st 15 pages or upto 22jun03 that leaves 90% hidden and readin the post.. takes far too long and only has 1 or 2 relevant things on each full page.. the rest is people asking stupid questions.. i suggest someone in admid makes a proper non bullsh1t detail engine build guide for various power outputs.. -500 -800hp -1000hp maybe a guide on electronical fuel and driveline. etc.. i think this would be a better non timewasting soloution life is to short to read a post which is 90% not important or related..eapecially when 260 pages.. i have had more help from sydney kid on his own than this whole website combined!! any suggestions on downloading whole post.. so i can search keywords or similar..

can anyone helpme on some of these things.. things im not sure about are (to save on build costs) o ring block? or any extra block strengthing. trust oilers on main bearing trust? head studs? main studs? vs std gtr ones. any heat treating/coatings? 26 mains and grinding channel in 30e block? oil squirter fitting? whats required and whats not or any others i have missed

not enough flow? im using one at the momnet and its showing good oil pressure at 7200rpm on a 560hp motor (60-70psi).. so why wont this do.. o and i do have a crank collar on it.. whats a good alternative pump then?

what is everthink..?? what have i missed mentioning im using nothing less than a rb26 head jun intake 85mm throttle medium porting and mild apexi cams & pullies.. im more consorned about the strength mods not the head mods.. i know my head and turbo setup can make the power.. i just want it to hold down below..

its because the info is so bitsy its spread out on the sticky and most people arent actually answering the questions just talkin shit.. kinda like now.. if you canno help be please dont bother posting... anf you rite.. i dont have 3 weeks either.. i would rip my hair out before then im already since of the smack talk on there..

im about to start a high hp 30 motor. i know most of the things require but have i missed any out and what weakness are there at 700-800hp.. i dont want to do anythin thats not realy vital but any suggestiong would be great 30e block..30e crank will need big end grinding.. carrillo rods,, wisco pistions (good coice?) std gtr oil pump ?ok? knife endged and balanced crank (inc flywheel & power enterprice pully) and thats pretty much what def will be getting done.. will be for dyno runs only at high power.. and maybe drag at lower power levels, things im not sure about are (to save on build costs) o ring block? or any extra block strengthing. trust oilers on main bearing trust? head studs? main studs? vs std gtr ones. any heat treating/coatings? 26 mains and grinding channel in 30e block? oil squirter fitting? or any think else i have missed? i dont want to do anythin thats not realy vital but any suggestiong would be great. ps that 30 post is far to big and its full of crap most and cant sniff out important info..

vn coils need about 4.4 some mitzubshi need 6ms..

the new links have jsut cam out the g3 models (all there pre 04 stuff is crap compared to new stuff) have hundreds of new features 1500nz with adaptor for lem. apexis best coice for street cars. but links have so many inputs and outputs these days and they are about the same price.. and 2000nz for g3 plus (8channel fuel and ijn

you ozzys over engineerr your motors.. forgies on 300hp lol head 26std no portin no cams.. vernier gears intake jun 7L 90mm throttle (didnt have oem setup handy) turbos twin 16v 2L ceramic rb20det ones.. yes those poxy ones that no one wants.. block std..oil resiticted, twin cam pump.. and thats that mod list.. could be done with 33 head with same turbos.. monstor torque... from idle.. 505hp 2370nm only at 14psi very responsive.. steps out in 4th.. built for driftin and racing..

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Front wheel 17 x 9 24mm Rear wheel 17 x 10.5 27mm or Wheel 18 x 9 Offset 24mm or 19 x 8.5 20mm front 19 x 10 25mm off what would fit and whats std offset so i can calulate? is 10.5"far to big?

im building a web site based on rb30ed cars please email me [email protected] if you have a rb30de or det dett powered car, im after anythink unique, non nissans, silvias old school datsun or similar, however anythink is welcome sky gtr cef laurel etc including os gikin kits please include at leasted, all high res one exterior picture 2 engine bay pictures, detailed engine specs hp, max rpm boost, comp ratio used etc, ecu and fuel system used iswell, name/plate etc & city/contry where your from will be up and running with a few cars buy end of week cheers

i have a 4 way adaptor included with my oil temp gauge, i ws thinking of putting it in the oil pressure port together with the oil pressure sender, but would this give a false reading as i dont belive ther would be any flow?

i have the pully covered, a power entiprise alloy crank pully, jun style oil pump sleve and a r32 gtr oil pump, s15 tubros will sting me, im on a buget, so if i have to pay $500 each for them i may iswell get greddy td05's

i may be forced to use twin 45v vg30 turbos, as the supplier for the 2l turbo is being a ass, and wanting $250 each for them now, and i have vg30 ones 45v (similar to r33 rb25 turbos) i have used a single vg30 turbo on rb30et & rb30dets before they both started to spool at 900rpm (in 5th gear) and were at 10psi buy 2000rpm, with that in mind would 2x vg30 tubos start to spool at 1800rpm (900rm x2 or twice the airflow) and be at 10psi at 4000rpm??? is that to laggy for drifting? i think it could rev to 8000rpm (RB26 head) what simiar twin turbo uprgrade on gtrs' have .63 .68 exh houings? td05 td06? hks/garret? any better preduction on lag or spool times?

actually 1500cc each as its a 3l not a 2.6, do u think the exh housings will be too big for 1500 cc? i dont like the std low mount setups, and this manifold is already made, also madiding turbos is expensive, a std oem 16v turbo is less than $100, thats why i tink them would be a good option,

o ok 4000rpm seams quite laggy, i have heard that 3L supras can spool a t78 greddy buy then, which at this stage is a more expensive but bettr option, any options on lag fro a t78 on a 3L? or anyone who had done the twin rb20det turbo conversion? if u get 12psi buy 1700 on your 3l wouldnt the both be 12psi at around 3400rpm?? 2x 1700 (twice the air flow)