GDZ1LA

i want to de loom my r32 whats involved, can it be moved to the right gaurd easily? at the moment the only wires exposed are the engine channel ones (from fiewall to crank angle sensor, ign leads and the light fuse box and plugs, can this be relocated, i dont mind re wiring the way i see it the only wires that need to be there are low beam hight beam left right turn horn and engine fan these are thing not require and have been already removed all ac & heater amf wires (running map) ps wires every thing else should be wiried in a different direction (battery is being relocated iswell for a single throttle jun plenum)

i removed the rb26 from a r32 gtr on sat, and i damaged the annoying ps line, also the plugs for ps switched and solinoilds, whats are they for? the one in alloy housing right on rack, and the one in front off diff, i have disable hicase and removed all lines and systems etc, i want to simplify the p/s system further,(replace bent lines while im there, ) any racers done this? or is it ok jsut to leave them unpluged?

i should of taken a picture side on before i reomved engine, here is a pic with brace insatlled if you see the manifold picture is it to complex to re weld, if it was just the pictured filter that hit i wouldnt worrie, but since its the comp housing itself i sorta have to, i couls also rase the bonnet at the back for heat flow, this will help a litte , but not 38mm, 38mm is deck height increase with 26 to 30?

idd say only when flexing, but monuts were ok when i removed the 26 engine on saturday, it has a small mark on top of turbo and a small mark on bonnet where they had been rubbing, nothin major, would a bonnet look gay with a hump where the turbo sits? it may look good with a hump and a reverse bonnet scoop tho?

You're screwed. If you try to lower the engine 30 mm and then add a 10 mm adaptor for the 4wd, this means the sump is 40 mm lower, the gearbox is 40 mm lower, the front drive shafts are 40 mm lower etc etc. the gearbox and axel angle shouldnt mater that much, i am more worried about hitting the sub frame, what if i angle the engine more so exh side is lower and intake stays the same? that way only the front driv shafts should be affected, the gearbox will just twist on its mounts, this may give me a little height decrease

Noltec have polyurethane mounts. do they have a web site? yea i think ill just modify my bonnet, manifold looks to well done to hack up, racepro in nz make a bonnet with a vent right above where it hits,

and no i am NOT puttin a smallr turbo on it lol, the alloy comp cover and the air filter are currently hitting ever so slightly with 26 engine,

i have a r32 gtr, and it keeps ripping the std exhaust side engine mount, i am converting to a rb30 so it will be higher 38mm???, my turbo is already hitting the bonnet (custom manifold) t8834d how can i lower engine (it has a 10mm spacer already) with mounts, and create a stronger mounting setup in the process any one made ther own mounts? or lowered there engine? from the 4 bolts on block? or via the mount itself urethane? other plastics? alloy? (what are the side effects of a true solid mount) and how much and a rb30 (4wd with 10mm adaptor) be lowered on a gtr 32 sub fram without contact, i may be able to angle engine on exh side to stop turbo hitting but relise there will be some bonnet mods required, see pic, this gives you a idea how high already (with rb26 engine)

is says on os site this = thats is a r3c, will i need this for my 1990 r32 gtr or is it supllied? can you get back to me about how to pay for this iswell NOTE *R32 models built 1989-1991 need release bearing and release sleeve specified below. Release bearing : Nissan 30502-14601. Release sleeve : Nissan 30501-U0200 (or 30501-A6801) for TS2CD, Nissan 30501-N1600 for R3C, Nissan 30501-B6000 for R4C.

i removed engine yesterday, i cut down the radiator support (if i had 2 people or a better crane this dosnt need doing) but otherwise it helpet alot, no gearbox oils leaked at all even with a 45deg lean on engine, front diff right axel gave me lots of grefe, after hiring a ball joint splitterand pulling out axel (at leasted the dont have pins like subarus) it locked back in, after 30 min of juggiling i relised this, then it came stright out, ps unplug your ps solidnoid and the ps switch at front of engine lol, its now on stand for 1st time, poped gbox off, bugger!! a std organic clutch, recently relined with heat damage (from the t88)(muiltiplate wanted,) my ps line behind streeing rack has suffered iswell and will need replaceing, next time ill undoo and tie back below sub frame,

sr 20 is 86x86 rb30e is 86x85 (bxs) offset grinding a factory nitrated crank? has any one done this? does it have to be re nitirted?

i think for a 4wd gtr, that conversion (open deck block space (cheaper to machine) will be much cheaper than doing the sump conversion in the end (and less rangi), i might get a qoute on one, ill make it as tall as the deck height of the rb30e block to enable the 1.7l 323 diesel belt, if i master it it may be a better alternative than the rb30e option (4 4wd only tho) althought open deck blocks are not as strong but i am sure os did it for a reason? will the required head bolts be easy to source? rb30e ones are alot longer than twin cam heads they may do m10 tho?

yea thats what i thought maybee they have 2wd skylines? transfer box - totally sealed, breather? gearbox - totally sealed bar the breather front dift - totally sealed bar the breather even engine oil - sealed but has been removed the only thing is when i take the hydrallic line from 4wd acuator that leaks (ATESSA fluid )

old post but.... i wana remove a r32 gtr engine and box together, i understand i can cut out the top radiator support, so the box and engine comes stright out? its used for racing and WILL blow up again so cutting the support out is no problem, is that all i cut? the lower one is ok? how wide does this cut have 2 be? to allow for engine to get through? also do i only need to drain tranfer box oil? or gearbox iswell? (i dont want to unlss i have 2)

96 they would do a full hone (no bore walls) i wonder whats the most meat you need on bore walls with new performance sleeves? 3mm idd say? (90mm pistons)

sold? ship to nz? paypal or cc card?

96od dont u mean? 86+5+5 each side? or 2.5 each side? i am forking out for custom pistons so wana get biggest i can without justifing strength, if 96 idd say it removes the whole casted lining? if 91 idd say it will leave .5mm or so each side to seal it?

can a rb30 block be fully boared out (to like 94mm) and have a full new sleve put in to run 89-90mm pistons? it would seal the water jacket at the top and bottom of block, what do the os gikin boys do when resleeving there n1 blocks with the rb30 kit? does it rmove the whole existing sleeve or just enought to press in? when a rb engine is re-sleeved is it fully bores out or not? i did the maths checking out spaing etc, i could use 92mm pistons if this works, and have new sleeves and sill have 2mm of bore around hole cyl (is 2mm enought) idd say 90mm a reliaty tho, 87x90=3320cc nice

so dosnt the std r32 gtr oil pump fit the rb30e's crank? or are u jsut suggesting this as a upgrade? i am building a rb30/26 running a t88, these are them pumps i have whats fits and whats best? r32 gtr std 1992 rb25de 2x rb30e std (remember they are hydrilic lifters so should supply enought for solid rb26 head, what 1 should i use?

http://www.free-ftp.org/gdz1la/prod01.htm has pictures, info on conversion detailed instructions and full price list, $125 inc ship nationwide (new Zealand) $120+40 shipping International paypal accepted - secure credit card transfer www.paypal.com New 6-Tower Ignition Coil. Priced to Sell! Get Them While They Last! Specs Primary Resistance 0.69-0.76 ohms (nissan coils are 0.6 -0.9ohms) Output (into 50ph load) a Massive 34KV, awsome spark Secondary Resistance 10200-13800ohms (not applicable with compatibility)

idd say you have spat a ceriamic wheel off, does the car sould noiser? rattling exhaust? take your top dual i/c pipe off and compare the flow one will have a pmissing wheel