GDZ1LA

what are the specs of a greddy td05 (turbos used in original rb26 kit) a/ratios wheel sizes? they look smaller, but make 380rwkw on a 2.7l @ 18psi, (taken from a mag comparing turbos) i want it very responsive, when does a rb20det reach about 12psi boost?

im building a rb26/30 motor for a s14 silvia drift car, i want around 400-600hp, on a very tight buget, i have engine fully build bar turbo setup, i have a greddy twin td05/06 turbo manifold, but cannot find td turbos cheap however i know a recker in chch nz, who has about 30x 16v rb20det around $100 each 4 me, turbos sitting there, i relise these are ceraimc, but i know they are reliable upto 14psi, twin 45v vg30 turbos may also be a option but too laggy? these are defenlly bigger than std gtr twin tubos, i was thinking of chopping off the wastegate system and welding up (converts to a 4 bolt dump pipe), maybee machining in larger intake/belmounths, and using the greddy type r wategate i have, ruuning twin 2.5" exh out side of car behind tyre and a single 2" 4 wategate, run them oil cooled only i have done this on many t3 turbos to save hassle of lines) and if anything happens simple remove the 2 housings and swap the internals and replace the 3 bolt td flanges with 4 bolt t3 flanges, on manifold, any one running twin t3's on any 3L motor, or even a 2.5?? what sorta flow would i expect from 12psi? enoguh for 500hp?] i dont want a laggy engine, would it be using the tiny t3's i think they are .48 ar exh housings and 45v are .63 or .68? so a 2l turbo would be used on a 1.5L engine,] its either this package or a t78 greddy single which i have but thats prob going to be 4000rpm spool (compared to 3l supra) and i cannot find a t67 td06 60-1 t61 cheap, also bonnet clearance is not a issue as a track only car, and a large hole in bonnet may help anyway with air temps

has anyone tried this fuel adjuster kit, like a vine pressure controller? eg get a gm2bar map sensor or similar and rem map for map sensing replacing the afm altogether? gm's run 0-5v like most map sensors, a map semsor must have a similar voltage curve to a afm? low volts under vacume or low loads, higher volts under high loads or boost? this also would work fine in closed loop mode? any input from anyone thats tried it? may be a much better alternatve for me, im running twin turbos with a rb20 ecu and dont want afms, or to change to a rb26 ecu and run more wires for the rear afm,

is bigg moma in the passange seat lol, check for brake fade/wear on left brakes, bleed brakes

its the vvt kicking in and out, u will notic it more in a higher gear, i gota pfc and the problem vanashed

Help?? is there a Non Power Steer Steeing Rack 4 R32 Sub Frame im wanting to remove ps from a r32 gtr, is ther any nissan steering rack to fit thats designed for non p/s or has better gearing cefiros? laruels? s13? any nissan rack with no ps? i have removed hiscas, and damaged the front p/s lines and plugs on the solinoid and switch, while removing engine, after turning wheel with engine off its alot lighter than i though, but still to heavy to justify disablibing without a gear ratio change, also when removing the hicas computer it puts it into a fail safe mode anyway which means ps system only works to %50 of its potential (heavey than normal) any input from 32 gtr owners that have done this?

check for vacum leaks with hoses or i/cooler pipes the afm may be in limp home mode, check battery leads, some cars do this when there is a loose connection, oil prss may be due to the power comming on or off? i could give more suggestions buy check those first

i have same problem in one of my rb30det engines, rb25de head, after a 5 lap drift event my catch tank has 500mls of oil, as i used one of the 2 breather lines, then after chaning to dual breather lines, down 2 200ml, whats wrong? compression was good on all cyl, why? i am sure its due to using 2x 1.8mm head feed rather than 1x1.8, 1.8mm is still plenty of oil for hydralic lifter heads, i think the breathers on rb30's should be inlarged to al leasted the gtr 20mm size, if i trashed my car (oil was at high level,) for a few minutes, get out quickly and check oil, there is virtually non on dip stick, this proves the 2x1.8mm feeds ar to much dosent it! oil in head is still trickling back the next rb26 rb30 i used only one 1.8mm feed and it runs like a dream, and that vvt return is not nessacary (when the vvt oil gallary is blocked), there is actualy around 10x 10mm oil returns in head, the large ones at rear are mostly there for blow buy, cacth tanks are a must at leasted 2L use both lines not just one like i did (slows air speed) block off the flywheel end head oil feed with a m8x1.25 grub screw, vacume return valves removed, also all breathers into intake as it makes it a mess anyway, o and finally if there is alot of oil in catch tanks, place a few new goldielock pot scrubers in cam covers after the mesh, this will baffle more oil out, or enlarge the breathers to a size similar to the gtr,

its done cheers guys i tried prying the tabs thinking there was no glue just as well i checked on fourms im confused whats sandpaper for? can i use to smooth down my scratch plastic indicators or willl it make it worse?

haha all that efford to change to aftermarket lenses, i will use this process to change a damaged lens to a good lense (good lens has broke mounts) hopefully i dont crack anything

yea im using custom alloy ones, ($80 for alloy 1 hour on lathe) ill freez them, and heat sub frame, they should just tap in (or ill mahine them down so the do lol) the heat will equalize and lock them in, its used for drifting so dont mind the stiffness, and hey tyrers are rubber arnt they lol

i am insltalling a new sub frame into a gts and the new sub frame has damaged bushes, i will be replacing with solid alloy ones as used for drifting, ho do i get these out? i have no access to a press and its very heavy, any success stories? i have heard of someone burning out but that would take all day and wouldnt remove steel sleve?

they dont replace the rubber bush thay are basicly pinapples anyway, if they were bush replacemtents they would have a 15mm hole for sub fram bolt not like 30mm like a pineapple

vl & r31 ones had a varible sender only (0-8bar) r32+ skys have a on/off and a varible, (2 wire) best to have both idd say, otherwise they do fit

i had same problem, it read 8bar + even when engine off, i tried cleaning out with compressed air, no luck, biff sender, try another

is there any difference between blue and yellow oil pressure senders other than colour lol, i am using a blue one on a freshly build rb30det it reads 4 bar at idle and 5 bar at 2000rpm, this is seriously high isnt it?, the gauge seams to be working correctly as is 0 when engine off, it takes about 15 seconds to build up the 4 bar pressure, i run no oil squiters and a std rb30e 1.5mm head oil feed, i am using a rb25de oil pump, not that this awsome pressure is a problem? i just want to know if its this sender? i have blue and yellow ones a blue one is installed (i think it was off a rb20de) are they calibrated different? my dash is a r32 gts, any one else had that pressure on a rebuilt engine? i dont uderstand why nissan would make blue and yellow other than different claabration>?

so if anyone rebuilds a head DONT acid bath the caps with the bolts in, remove them when you take cams of!! otherwise your in for alot of muckin around with a hone and wet n dry 4 bolts!

i have has nothing but trouble with my rb25de cam caps, 25/28 of the bolts were totally seized 10 needed heat iswell to remove 1 snaped in cam cap on removal (e2) i then tried to easy out, this was a waste of time ans a easy out, i then drilled out tried again and it snaped the cam cap, can it be welded, or will it warp? the rest need leverage to remove, one bolt snaped in head (8.7ft lb) (e1) easy out worked, and i striped tread (e1 iswell) i trilled down deeper and taped deeper, and used a longer m6x1 bolt, a little swarf went down hole into head, bugger alloy and magnets dont work, any suggestions? so after all this muching around (6hours) i need 2 bolts and a e2 cam cap,

most likely coils & or plugs

td04 far to small, twin t3 would be good

i have just purchased this mainfold, i relise its for twin td 05 / 06 turbos, but i cannot afford these, what oem style turbos would suit this manifold, it has 3 bolt flanges for turbines, subaru td turbos may work but there 3 bolt flange has a bolt offset, Mitsubishi Pajero diesel turbos non gate ones) have the proper 3 bolt flange could these housings adapt to another turbo easily? any more suggestions? twin 16v rb20's? vg30's? (changeing flange) they need to support 750hp, this will justify the laggy t88 ***EDIT R31Nismoid*** If you want to sell them, post them in For Sale Otherwise questions only here. Thanks

yea

yes take out when cold fill radiator till it overflows, sometimes its good to check every now and then, if bleeding when hot dont fully unscrew, let it bleed untill the hissing stops and water passes instead idd say there is a major air pocket in your cooling system good luck

you have beed air out? top of intake manifold on rb20/25

this sounds like me, but what about these electrics i thought it was all for hicas? you think a cooler is a must? remember only hicas needed the cooler, non hicas models dont have one,