JC71

not sure what you are calling a hot pipe... but your saying to eliminate all hoses here, cap all nipples. block line off the aluminum elbow off the front/top of turbo, and block the one off the steel hook pipe in front and above that, remove solenoid, and both those lines. drill and add nipple to this intercooler pipe? in pic at red arrow, (as similar to where stock had one) and run a line for "pressure source" to the manual controller from there, then the out the controller to the wastegate?

I looked it over last evening and took a few pics. trying to simplify as much as possible. cap or remove whatever is not needed and add two lines, to and from the aftermarket manual boost controller. there is a nipple on the aluminum/cast elbow between the turbo and intake filter, another on the steel "hook" pipe in front of that, that looks to be connected to the rubber pipe between the turbo elbow and intake filter as well. the one on the wastegate, and the two currently to stock solenoid valve

where is the best location to connect the pressure source line to the manual boost controller???? my rb25det neo has a front mount intercooler, and therefor the stock fitting (like in attached 1st pic, white arrow) on the upper intake pipe is not there. I only see one other smaller hose fittings on the stock intake cross over pipe before the throttle body, just below the recirculation or "BOV" valve. currently has the blk and red little "filter" in this line. (2nd pic whit arrow) Able to put in a T and use this one? I have also seen some pics where people appear to have T into the hose going to the recirculation valve nipple??. please advise. thanks.

can one remove the stock wiring, bracket and "dual stage (5-7) solenoid" control assembly, if installing an aftermarket (turbosmart) manual boost control?

do the RB25det neo equipped Stagea's have a boost solenoid (value controller) that is set at 5psi until rpm is greater than 4500rpm and then its 7 psi, like the R34 gtt's?

turbo removed and inspected, actually hoping to find a broken turbine shaft or something, (would explain a lot) but it looks great, no play or noise of bearings, solid connection on center shaft, both wheels and housing look fine inside and out, actually a lot cleaner and better condition then I expected...so I put back together and took for another drive, since I now seen other videos with similar sounds, I pushed the rpms' higher from 4-6k range, and got anywhere from 5-7 psi boost boost being created by turbo. so it appears turbo is making boost fine, however still the sound remains the same, the type of sound I would image if one side of the turbo wasn't connected to anything, (the sound of a leaf blower or hair dryer wide open end) is there anyway something could be preventing the air that is being forced out of the turbo to not be directed into the engine intake properly??, I checked all piping for blockage etc. none found. still the power, torque and acceleration seem low, as it almost feels like the boost that is being built up is actually holding the engine power back and or its not being directed into the intake properly? I am tempted to make a super short U pipe to go right from the turbo out to the stock intake pipe and completely eliminate the intercooler and piping system just to isolate it.

I guess I just didn't think I would hear so much air movement and it being so loud, as it twice as loud as in the video above, I understand how it works, but figured with the intake and exhaust all being connected to the air created by the turbo system, that I wouldn't hear so much of the air itself moving, as it would be going to the engine intake or out the exhaust. as far as I know I am making boost, it just doesn't feel like it is being used to increase the engine power or pull, maybe I am just expecting too much from a little 2.5L attached is the read out of my boost gauge during different stages:

I did find a video of a rb25det neo in a r34 gtt with a similar sound, in this video when he is accelerating from inside the cab I hear the same type of air sound, around 45-53 seconds and multiple other times when he accelerates...so maybe its normal and fine??

well, no luck again.😞 I got home after work and took the entire system off, intake, intercooler, all piping , connections, turbo elbows etc., inspected everything. Everything that makes up the intake, turbo and exhaust system , manifold intake and exhaust, all nuts were present and tight, all gaskets looked like they were sealing fine, I find no cracks, loose fittings, restriction, leaks, nothing.... I reinstalled it all test drove, same hair dryer/leaf blower sound anytime I give it throttle, and we are talking half to 3/4 throttle, and under 3k rpm's , as with this noise and it being new to me I wanted to make sure everything is good before I push it, or drive it aggressively. then I swapped out the 50/50 aftermarket bov for the stock 100 percent recirculation version, another test drive, same exact sound. (except no "ppsssh" sound when I let of throttle.)... I wish I had a stock intake to try as it does have a Apexi intake on it and I wonder if this is causing the loud whooshing sound. I also did a few more various leak pressure tests , 5, 10 and 15 psi and found no leaks in the system. wastegate push rod seems to be moving correctly and is connected as well. turbine wheel seems to be smooth ,stable, intact and very little to no play. Still seems like a lot of hesitation and low power, doubt I could get rear tires to even spin, I expected a lot more punch based on what I have heard and seen with these 25 neo turbo engines. I have never seen or heard one in person, but can't imagine this is correct. I am going to try to see if I can get a much better video of this sound

I will go over it again, a leak would make the most sense and also explain why I have a high idle issue if I plug the iacv in...I have had everything off, inspected, and replaced every coupler and hose in question, new clamps, reinstalled and basically soaked the entire system with soapy water and find nothing... could there possible be an issue with the wastegate rusted open?? from sitting so long? again the air sound literally sounds like a 3 inch open pipe blowing or sucking air, not just a small passage, very strange. it does sound like the turbo is creating massive air flow but like its not being diverted or flowing into the intake/cylinders, it seems to have very low and delayed power. do appreciate the help

here is the video, again really hard to hear but in person its very loud 20240703_175734.mp4

I drove my ER34 for the first time since I got it, It sat for 4 years in Japan, and i got it 7 months ago, have done a ton of work, garage test ran perfectly. (no air suction sound) BUT when accelerating (under a load) it makes a loud air suction sound, or anytime I get into the throttle...it sounds like a leaf blower. I also noticed that it did not seem to have very decent pull or power, and the boost gauge doesn't seem to go much above 0, its stock other then full exhaust, apex intake, 50/50 bov and front mount intercooler. this is my first Turbo car so I don't know if this is correct? I did take a video but for some reason it is very hard to hear in the video, in person it literally sounds like some one has a leaf blower under the hood...my first though was a leak?? however I have check over all lines, clamps, hoses and fittings. thoughts?

my question is will the A/C compressor clutch automatically turn on and off as needed to attempt to maintain temp according to the cabin sensor and a/c display control temp setting? I ask because I vacuumed my a/c system, then added about 19 oz of R134A, which is what it appears the conversion is for the approx. 540g listed on fender tag. (has proper pressure in system) A/c compressor will turn on the instant I push the ac button and turn up fan, but it appears the compressor clutch turns on and off sporadically, a few minutes on then a few off, then back on again for a few, over and over, until I turn it off... its plenty cold and smells, fine, and no leaks are detected. I thought it may be designed to do this?? similar to how my new GMC truck automatically turns the compressor clutch on and off depending on the load required from the engine for other things, such as when I am accelerating on to the freeway, the a/c compressor clutch will turn off until I'm up to speed as we all know the a/c compressor pull a lot of power from the engine and can severely slow acceleration.

no, the car was a manual 5 speed from the factory and still is.

I couldn't get this to work right, New clean IACV, coolant seems to flow and solenoid functions, but again as soon as I plug it in the idle raises, I ran the car for a good 1/2 hour messing around with various things it, no vac leaks. At one point with the IACV plugged in I was able with the adjustment in the side of IACV turned all the way in get it idle down a little to around 1000, but no lower, and it would surge, I unplugged the IACV engine rpms drop to about 350, turned the adjustment about 3 turns in , set idle to around 800 rpms' and it idles smooth. I set the idle stop screw abut the same so it cant drop below under load. the engine starts, restarts, with no load or with a load seems to run fine. I will have to leave it like this for now as I cant get it to function correctly with the IACV plugged in. One other thing I discovered that might be the reason for some of the issues, the engine in the car is a RB25det neo from a Stagea along with the Stagea ECU. so alot of wiring, plumbing etc that is typically there in a R34 is not.

"The outer is separated from the inner by the rubber" duh....I know that, I should have figured that out, gheeze. thanks, I'll replace it.

appears to be, I loosened the bleeder on top IACV and coolant came out.

I just replaced the timing belt, along with tensioner, idler, water pump, etc. all the front end engine stuff with all new stock Nissan parts on my 98 R34 GTT that I just recently got, so glad I did as the belt ,tensor, idler and water pump were all original to the car with over 161 Km and looked absolutely terrible, honestly I cant believe the belt has not broken, luckily I have not driving the vehicle since I got it, and only have ran a few times because I've been restoring it over this winter. I turned engine over by hand and lined up all the timing marks from cams, to the head (plate behind pulleys), and crank to oil pump block mark, as ran fine, but had a lot of front end noise. the idler sounded like gravel and the tensioner had to no tensor left on it at all as it appeared the spring had rusted in place due to a waterpump leak over the years. so the timing belt was very loose on the left or tensioner side. Never the less I turn engine by hand until everything lined up even with the marks on the original belt. I remove everything making sure not to rotate anything, then put in new tensioner, idler, made sure all marks from belt matched marks on the pulleys, cams and crank alike and all marks from crank and cams to head and block were perfect. I slowly turned by hand and everything lined up on the cams and crank to the head and block every other time, as proper. all looked fine until I put the lower timing belt cover back on, then the harmonic balancer, at this point before torqueing the crank bolt down I noticed the timing mark on the lower cover to the harmonic balancer is off. I think the marks on the harmonic balancer and in 5 degrees, from 0-20 and it should be at 0, but some how its around -2.5, not enough for a belt notch, and there is little play in this cover to the block. The key way and key are perfect on the crank and slot in balancer is perfect, no play here, and the cams and other timing marks seem to be on. Is this something to be concerned with or will it be fine. maybe just this way due to a new stock Nissan belt?? slightly tight and will stretch a hair??? I marked the CAS before disassembly and know it should be set to 15 degrees BTDC or so at 650 rpms per engine decal. so do I need to worry about what appears to be a slight retard of the mechanical timing? or will this slight difference be compensated when I adjust my CAS? appreciate any insight.

I replaced the entire IACV assembly with new unit from Nissan, idle acts the exact same, starts and runs with idle rock solid at 900, as soon as I plug in the solenoid from the new IACV the idle races up to 1400, even with idle adjustment on side back of intake manifold maxed out for lowest idle still way too high around 1200. Again if I unplug the IACV, turn idle screw to about half and it runs fine at around 900. thinking about just leaving it unplugged, do not ever plan to drive it when its cold, and always stored in climate control garage, just sucks to spend 500 dollars and have no change, could have left the original at this point. any other thoughts as to what it could be? maybe not even worth pursuing? that is if cold start idle aid was the only reason for Nissan to have this part anyway. tried AC and other loads and it never seemed to push idle below stall.

can someone tell me what type the stock injectors are on a 98 rb25det neo engine? all aftermarket intakes require style /size injector pictured below...I need to know what stock engine has. and if they are compatible, or what mods would have to be done. style of intake I am looking at https://www.ebay.com/itm/325396084484?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110013%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIMRXI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D264094%26meid%3D5341792cb2134ae08e62edba0106c479%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D266154719116%26itm%3D325396084484%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DPromotedRVIPbooster%26brand%3DCustom&_trksid=p2332490.c101196.m2219&itmprp=cksum%3A3253960844845341792cb2134ae08e62edba0106c479|enc%3AAQAJAAABICwDxH%2FaslyJlxG5OwCzDVs5U6ncPDDFP4HCfgb8bXFQagmnGWQKp%2F5LAV0adQfbjzLOMM5V9WdEAXvNCLcpgDrzFvXcL7dVf5HawGKZAaaGFBnv4h4bnbRe6OSYvS8sL7PFPrxKj1Ffjdm6cYtU05cBROA0QdRKCNqPtF1hizoeiccNy6dwbcFsfX6syZa5MfzX2aEOofmNIehOqxSmtQvJliZHTgLy2BTDxXv5Zq9atpb1m%2BVtBHabBK8Wn6U2uPOAs71mwVWNmc1t4ZnHatrqKLQC6hCPTC8NW3QzFTCUvLg%2FWU4IZ1IAyPK288DdviqpLaN9sgbF3Ia0z6zXqLkqPyXbN7irzRC0HP2kjwHM8czF9PjWtRHDVNb1AiU9%2FQ%3D%3D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2332490&itmmeta=01HWN3YNH6HQ8PEG4RPPSH1HSB thanks

awesome, that's exactly how mine is working, I was unsure as when car arrived none of these gauges were connected, so I had to wire/ plumb everything. good to know I did it right, thanks.

1998 ER34 GTT rb25det neo engine , everything is stock but intake filter, intercooler and exhaust system. my question is: what is the normal readings on the stock boost gauge? with key on? at idle? with a quick throttle input pedal tap? throttle held at 1/2 steadily? appreciate any help

98 ER34 GTT idle races, if AAC is unplugged, then idles perfect. 1998 ER34 GTT rb25det neo, rpm's race at idle, around 1200 rpms, I cleaned MAF, AAC/IACV. no change. if I unplug the ACC 2 wire plug, it idles correctly, around 900 rpms. questions: 1. will it damage anything or effect characteristics by driving the car with this AAC unplugged? 2. is this 2 wire AAC component replaceable, or must one replace entire IACV assembly? appreciate any help

I think we are talking about two different things....I am not talking about the "main" hoses that go to and from the pump but the two small hoses that both come off the top...

odd, the front hose on mine has been cut off short and has a bolt in it with a clamp, the rear one curls under the pass side next to the head, (similar to the one in the picture) and I cant see where it goes....the power steering does appear to be working. any ideas why the front one would be cut and blocked?