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About syd_gtr

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  1. both sockets are same place and both sensors have similar wire length. good idea on pulling a coil plug that would make that bank rich for sure so I will try that to settle it if necessary. nissan epc which is the origin of the snapshot pic of two cables says -24u00 is the front sensor and -24u01 is the rear and has gotta be authoritative, (the ecu pinout diagram I pulled from the r34 “supplement-I” manual seems misleading). so front, -24u00 is square plug, but on ecutalk showed as the second voltage number which is why I started double checking if I had installed them wrong to begin with.
  2. Can someone please confirm if o2 oval plug is front or rear and square plug is front or rear? because part listings at kudos and efi for lambda sensors seems opposite to the scanned copies of manuals online, though not sure the manual is correct given they come from random downloads. The first pic comes from nissan epc via Amayama but it is hard to see the plug is drawn differently. In fact one of them I found labels both plugs as "rear" -- ugh. Since I removed my bad sensors to install new ones I can't even check my car anymore. ecutalk seems to agree the square plug is (R) for Rear -- if the second voltage is "rear" and the first voltage is "front".
  3. Sorry to create a new thread but searching old ones gets outdated information. What is the current best choice for a rear speaker pair in r34 that uses stock mounting (replaces stock speakers) and is slimline or at least has minimal to no increase in depth? thanks.
  4. according to https://www.50ignite.com/nissan-skyline-r33-gtr the R8 coil pack is not compatible with some ECUs (fcon not mentioned as either compatible or not compatible). Maybe fcon is also one of them.
  5. Interesting. A restrictor would function for pressure reduction if there is airflow, but also a damper of some kind to moderate the function of the solenoid, which has a duty cycle. Guess I'm going to have to try to find out from someone in Japan what's up with all this and/or some trial and error as you say.
  6. thank you! in S15s according to a digram on nistune the two pills supposedly bracket the boost that the solenoid works with, via a ratio of one to ‘tother dia. Would this second one logically be larger or smaller than the normal one? I guess its function is to raise the boost floor the stock system works within. on an s1/r1 would the normal one (the one commonly removed on stock r34s), have a larger hole than standard? (am helping a friend get his r1 boost control system back to stock. in the dark with these two restrictors, a bit)
  7. I believe there is a second brass air flow restrictor pill somewhere, I think it damps the feed of manifold pressure to the stock boost control system. Does anyone know where it is, and if its the same diameter as the famous one that is often removed to get 0.9 bar? I remember a post saying one is under the intake manifold, I guess in a tube feeding manifold pressure, but someone else posted it is built into the metal pipework.. If one is reverting from an ebc and both pills have long gone, would like to know where it is supposed to be fitted, and if they are interchangeable.
  8. I wasted a ton of time searching for topics on this so for the sake of people in future who may be searching, here are the reasons why if you look at your cam angle sensor it isn't in the middle of the slot. Tyndago has said on gtrusablog that if the cas is not at or near center on a stock car, you should be asking questions, and he is right. Reasons 1. an aftermarket ecu can handle the cas twisted anywhere. You just have to set it up at the ecu in the mapping tables. So for example the cas may be deliberately positioned at what looks like max advance so that the owner doesn't muck around in a bad direction. 2. there is a cam gear and the exhaust cam has been adjusted, and the cas has been twisted to keep ignition timing the same rather than setting the ECU. 2a. the ignition timing is way off. and all is ok if the cas goes back to center slot. 2b. the cam belt is installed one tooth out and then the base timing was set. You now have 7.5 degrees of cam advance/retard 3. there is no cam gear and no programmable ecu but someone has decided they want to advance or retard ignition a little. The degrees twist from slot center is twice that number for ignition timing. So for example, a cas twist similar to "one tooth" out is most of the slot, and that's 1/48th x 360 x 2 = 15 degrees of ignition change. 4. there is no cam gear and no aftermarket ecu but the cam is aftermarket and the press fit locator inside the exhaust cam (looks like an offset slot, for R34, that is tilted somewhat with respect to the four bolt holes) is not quite right, so the CAS was twisted to get the base timing correct again. 5. the cas has a broken locator (meshes with the metal shape inside the cam) and this is causing all kinds of issues 6. the head and block have been machined and this changes the geometry slightly. I don't think this is worth much movement in the slot. 7. final answer. The stock sprocket has elongated bolt holes and locator hole and the bolts have been done up such that the cam is rotated from where it was supposed to sit, this is the backyard cam gear solution and you can't see it unless you either degree the cams and discover that with the sprocket marked tooth lined up with the backplate, the cam is twisted, OR, loosen the sprocket and see how much play it has on the cam. This final answer turned out to be my problem. I've seen this "backyard adjustable cam gear" mentioned for other motors, but could not find any threads on this for RB26. Unless of course nissan stock cam sprockets all come with elongated holes? I don't think so, as they have the same part number for exhaust and intake and one of mine had elongation applied to all holes and the other just to the locator hole.
  9. a) it isn't my car with the disconnected hose, I was curious if this was common. b) I like to know how things work in detail. stock, the solenoid is normally closed, is it also slightly leaky? perhaps it is better not to create any topics at all on sau - since everything has been asked before even if it can be difficult to find the exact reply, and of course there is a manual to refer to if one doesnt want to know the whys of something.
  10. thats right. however if you pull the front hose off at idle at least mine is sucking a vacuum like in rhythm. I can feel it. so is it broken? (it is new). It doesnt screw up idle like removing the other hose to it does though. and why would this beautiful nur pfc have it open to atmo? maybe there was a hidden boost controller and this was not connected? would be news to the owner though.
  11. on a minty nur 34 with a power fc his factory boost solenoid (the oem one fixed to strut tower) was open at the pointy end to atmosphere. No tube. No aftermarket boost controller. mine, whether electrically connected or disconnected sucks a pulsing vacuum through that end at idle. It seems to make a slight difference to idle (open to atmosphere vs not) is a factory boost sensor supposed to leak vacuum? is it normal to have it open to air?
  12. see my for sale parts listing with pics decided to sell it.
  13. thanks to one of the two replies I found an ecu on gumtree and bought it for the two brackets only. all good. anyone want an r34 gtst ecu ?
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